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V8 alternator

Started by _Hussyslr_ , Jan 14 2015 09:34 PM

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24 replies to this topic

#1 _Hussyslr_

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 09:34 PM

Hey Guys, Could someone tell me what is the best alternator to by for my 308 torana. I wold like a 100amp as I will be running twin Thurmo fans.

Their are some 1 wire Crome alternators on eBay for a good price. Will this be easy to hookup.

Another question! My existing loom is from a 6 cly. Can I use this loom for my new 308 engine?

I would appreciate your help?

Regards, Ezza.

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#2 _motiV8ed_

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 09:45 PM

Can't remember what amps they are (85A seems to ring a bell) but if you wanna stick with original get one for a 90's model v6 commodore & change the pulley from a low amp or clapped out earlier one, they are plentiful, decent quality & affordable

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#3 _A9X UC_

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 09:48 PM

Go 80amp or above and at least a minimum of 580cca battery

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#4 Bigfella237

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 02:01 AM

Another question! My existing loom is from a 6 cly. Can I use this loom for my new 308 engine?

G'day Ezza,

Not without modification but we're only talking about half-a-dozen wires, some will need to be extended, some possibly shortened and re-routed but it's a relatively painless job if you have a soldering iron and a roll of insulation tape?

Have a look around the forum for photos of V8 engine bays and you'll soon pick up on where the loom needs to run on the motor.

P.S. Don't forget to change your tacho over to eight cylinder if need be as well?

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#5 _Hussyslr_

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 10:10 PM

Thanks Anderew! Currently looking for a V8 tacho!

I will get my mate who's an auto Alec and sort it out!

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#6 _Hussyslr_

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 10:15 PM

Can any one tell me if the Crome 100amp one wire alternators on eBay are any good for my 308 please?

Looking at all these alternators are driving me crazy.

Thanks Ezza

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#7 Bigfella237

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 11:38 PM

Got a link to the ebay item Ezza?

We could search ourselves but there's no guarantee we'll be looking at the same one.

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#8 _LHSL308_

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Posted 17 January 2015 - 08:47 AM

Presume he would be looking at something like this.

http://www.ebay.com....984.m1423.l2649

And not something like this ad. Some of the alternators in the below link have a resistor around the wrong way, this will drain your battery when the car is turned off. This is why no warranty is offered in the ad. I enquired about this alternator and this is what I was told from the seller.

http://www.ebay.com....984.m1423.l2649

I've also been looking at getting one thinking my current alternator was a one wire hookup job. I've since become I have 2 wires coming out of the alternator. I have a brown wire which I think goes to the D+ and another wire which is held on with a small nut. So i'm thinking i'm after a 3 wire hookup alternator as I haven't seen any 2 wires for sale.

Edited by LHSL308, 17 January 2015 - 08:52 AM.

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#9 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 17 January 2015 - 04:45 PM

I would avoid those chrome alternators. I had one on a 5ltr V8 that ended up seizing & throwing the fan belt 40kms from home. It was only around eight months old at the time with limited kms on it. Fitted a 85A Bosch alternator & haven't had any problems since, even running twin 12" thermos, MSD HEI ignition & electric fuel pumps.

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#10 _hutch_

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Posted 17 January 2015 - 05:30 PM

Go to the wreckers and get a commodore alt off a VS or the like,you will need to fit a sense wire to the regulator so ask them for the plug and a length of cable on it,the "S" wire on the reg goes to your battery positive,"L' is the warning light,idealy you should change the warning light globe to a 2 watt globe too

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#11 _LHSL308_

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Posted 17 January 2015 - 07:51 PM

VS alternators aren't chrome are they?

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#12 ben23

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Posted 17 January 2015 - 09:45 PM

The 85A bosch alt's charge the best at idle as well as at speed, VN V8 is the go, has the right pulley, just need to modify the wiring to suit the RE60 regulator. VN-VR V6 will work too but you will need to swap pulleys and possibly rotate the housing.

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#13 _hutch_

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Posted 17 January 2015 - 09:49 PM

paint it with chrome paint lol....be flash as Michael Jackson

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#14 _LHSL308_

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Posted 17 January 2015 - 09:54 PM

My alternator is painted chrome and looks shit with an engine bay full of chrome. All the chrome 100amp alternators can't be bad.

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#15 _hutch_

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 08:02 AM

Well it makes you wonder when a Bosch 85 amp alt is around $. 300 or so and they can sell you a chromed 100 amp alt delivered for less than $200

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#16 _LHSL308_

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 09:37 AM

Probably best to pay a few extra bucks for a chromed 100amper with a 12 month warranty.

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#17 _SS Hatchback_

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 04:33 PM

read above on those chrome 100amp alternators re the issues, i know of 2 fitted that shat themselves in no time, Mine is one from a vr v8 commodore and as mentioned you will need to connect the L wire to your dash light and the S wire you can just run straight to the post of the battery feed without any issues, The plug you need is a standard fuel injector plug which you can buy or pick from any auto place. Buy the right one and save int he long run and headaches. If you want it shiny just get the alloy casing polished and it will look better than the chrome ones anyway.

original 35 amp on left which i did years ago prior to thermos , the new 85amp on the right, straight swap other than the easy plug connections, easy enough to pull apart and if not i wouldnt think a auto elec would charge much to pull apart and put back together , if you were closer i would have done it for you

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#18 ben23

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 06:17 PM

The chrome alts are usually based on the yank delco 10si, not a bad alt but they are usually a knock off and that contributes to the number of failures ive seen with them, most of them do have a 100A capacity but the rectifier just isn't up to the task. The way you need to look at it, a commodore has thermos, EFI, A/C and usually other power options and the factory 85A alt handles it fine. Just remember to upgrade your alternator B+ wire going to the battery, at least something around 8 B&S or 6 B&S. There are 120A versions of that Bosch alt but they charge poorly below about 2 grand, had guys coming in that couldn't understand why the battery was going flat after idling around Summernats, thermos going full speed as well. Fitted an 85A, no problems. I think the Bosch looks better too once they are detailed. Could also get the housings polished!

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#19 _LHSL308_

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 06:32 PM

A quick little tutorial on how to pull them apart would be handy. I'd be happy to get mine polished but like I said its already been painted in that chrome paint crap. I've also got some other bits i'd like to get chromed too and i've finally found someone who will do the chroming instead of being put on a waiting list.

Edited by LHSL308, 18 January 2015 - 06:36 PM.

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#20 _SS Hatchback_

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 06:56 PM

When you take a look at it its pretty self explanatory on how it comes apart but a quick run down

Just make sure when you take it apart you do it slowly and make sure you remember and place things where you know how they go back together, simple when you have done it once

Remove the 2 regulator screws from the rear of the alt and remove the regulator/ brush box

Remove the all nuts and washers from the B+ terminal (rear case remembering the little bakerlite insulator surrounding the screw thread)

Remove the pulley nut - Use a rattle gun

Remove the 4 long screws that hold the 2 alloy cases together

Pull the 2 halves apart taking the front casing away first

Inside the rear casing you will see i think from mem 3 screws that hold the rectifier board in the rear case, remove these and take the stator out (wire wound circle thingy between the two cases) with the rectifier board and careful with the connections, Also remove the wave washer in the rear case that the bearing sits against

Then you can remove the rotor ( centre rotating thingy ) from the front casing

You will then have two seperate casing parts

Like i said once you start it will come easy to you, if you cant get a rattle gun you can skip that step and pull it all apart and then carefully hold the rotor in a vice and remove the nut that way. I havent pulled one apart in ages so im only giving you a quick run down.

Edited by SS Hatchback, 18 January 2015 - 06:58 PM.

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#21 EunUCh

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 07:46 PM

^ they are easy enough,index the front and rear covers/stator before you start so that they go back on aligned,center pop punch (not too deep) or marker pen will work.

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#22 _hutch_

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 08:03 PM

getting the rotor out of the drive end housing can be a challenge, if it wont move it will most likely be the collar behind the fan,sit the rotor on a solid steel structure making sure you don't make contact with the slip ring end bearing,arm ya self with a drift and a good size hammer and hit the face of the collar in about 3 places,this will stretch it enough to get it apart,once you have done this grab the rotor refit the nut and hit the nut on a piece of hardwood,this will make the housing slip off the shaft.....MOST TIMES,IF YOU TRY TO PRESS THE SHAFT OUT be REAL CAREFUL,coz the bearing retainer screws are 4 mm

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#23 _LHSL308_

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 08:51 PM

Thanks guys not sure if i'll take it on but none the less some very good lessons there. It might not be much to get an auto elect to pull it apart and put back together. I would prefer to keep my 55amp alternator but finding someone that will pull it apart and chrome it is impossible.

Edited by LHSL308, 18 January 2015 - 08:52 PM.

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#24 ben23

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 09:15 PM

Also while its apart make sure the bearings press in tight to the end brackets, if not, they are probably flogged out and require sleeving or find a good set of end brackets or another alternator. Auto elec shouldn't charge much to pull it apart, just finding one who will do it is the other drama. Being one myself I know how many out there don't do this kinda stuff anymore.