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Recondition mag wheels


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#1 _RedSS_

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Posted 21 March 2015 - 05:37 PM

Hi all,
I am wanting to recondition my cheviot mags and I got this reply from the last place I contacted after I sent them a pic.

"They look like they need shotblasting to remove old paint, then they'd need an epoxy primer and paint followed by CNC machining the face and finally clear coating. For all that you'd be looking around $250 a rim "

$250 a rim !!

No way there's got to be a cheaper alternative.
Anyone got any suggestions on a great way to recondition mags ?

#2 _RedSS_

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Posted 21 March 2015 - 06:07 PM

Here's a pic of one of the mags

#3 mika03au

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Posted 21 March 2015 - 07:44 PM

Price seems similar to the quote I got for my hotwires.
Umm, Sam where is the pic?

#4 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 21 March 2015 - 07:49 PM

To me that sounds very reasonable for the amount of work involved from a company that is equipped to do it CORRECTLY. 

 

Cheaper option is to do it yourself. 

 

Cheers. 



#5 _duggan208_

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Posted 21 March 2015 - 11:01 PM

Has anyone had any success with that bloody horrible clear coat. My AJS copies were only about 12 months old when the clear coat started doing some crappy things, these wheels were brand new.

regards



#6 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 21 March 2015 - 11:35 PM

If its applied correctly it should last 10 years easy. 20 with some lovin.  

Problem with the cheap chineese wheels you get for $100 each is every shortcut known to man kind is made. 


Edited by Bomber Watson, 21 March 2015 - 11:36 PM.


#7 _RedSS_

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 12:01 AM

Haven't managed to the time to sort this photobox thing out for pictures sorry will do soon!

I really have to try and do something myself as $1000 is defiantly out for the wheels.

Any step by step suggestions of the best way to do it yourself ?

Would emery paper work on the face and rim to really cut it back ?, then maybe just repaint the inner part of wheel black and clear over the top?

Does anyone know much about the powerball or similar polish tool ?

#8 N/A-PWR

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 06:05 AM

Hi Sam,

 

I repaired a Hotwire once, where I had the dent in the rims edge aluminium welded in ( was free ),

 

then put an axle in the lathe, bolted on the Hotwire Mag, and machined both sides of the welded area,

 

until the dent and welding was smooth with the normal rims surfaces.

 

While I was there, the gutter rash got cut back ( machined off ).

 

Used emery-cloth on the machined area, to get the machining marks out,

 

and then with a bit more rpm, gave it a polish.

 

 

That is all I did.



Any step by step suggestions of the best way to do it yourself ?

Would emery paper work on the face and rim to really cut it back ?, 



#9 _Agent 34_

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 06:10 AM

Sam,

 

I have started a set for my race car and did this;

 

Started with 800 

then 1200 

then 2000 

 

wet and dry.

 

put the polishing wheel on the drill then used paste and just worked it around.

 

 

The paint was reasonable so there was no need to re paint - plus there only for a race car - but came up quiet well and yes i was quoted  between 250 to 500 per rim 

 

you can by the posishing kits ( cloth wheel) off ebay and also super cheap.

 

 

If you use mothers aluminum polish (tub) rather than the bars that they supply then it's easier to work. 

 

but you need to wet and dry the rim fist to cut all the anodized aluminum off the surface.

 

its a bugger of  a job. 



#10 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 06:45 AM

but you need to wet and dry the rim fist to cut all the anodized aluminum off the surface.

 

 

 

Oven cleaner (with lye in it) also cuts  through anodizing...



#11 UC308Hatch

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 08:00 AM

I haven't used it, so I cant vouch for the product, but while I was in repco the other day I noticed "Royal Purple" do a de-oxidation product.

Having said that last time I did a set of Hot Wires that only needed the unpainted areas polishing on my old LJ, I just jacked it up (on jack stands) locked the hand brake on the passengers side (open diff), put it in drive (with front wheels chocked) & proceeded to use the drivers rear wheel to turn the mag whilst I polished (stationary hand). I used a foam backed wet & dry pads (same grits as Agent 34), but used kerosene as my lubricant as the polished results were a lot better than using water.... But be careful!! (I didn't have access to a lathe).


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Edited by UC308Hatch, 22 March 2015 - 08:01 AM.


#12 _Agent 34_

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 07:29 PM

oxidized not anodized aluminum i ment to say.

 

 

Jell i have three to do so may give the oven cleaner a go next weekend.

 

G



#13 TerrA LX

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Posted 23 March 2015 - 07:49 AM

Oven cleaner (with lye in it) also cuts  through anodizing...

 

Be careful using oven cleaners with caustic, it may make more work cleaning up the alloy than needed.

FWIW the last few wheels I have done I used paint stripper to remove the clear coat.

 

Tip; Polishing mag wheels is no diffedrent to polishing 2k paint.



#14 _l31l31_

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Posted 27 April 2015 - 09:49 PM

Hi would anyone have a set of old school Magnums 15x10 these a rare , but look great on a torana very popular in the late 70s and early 80s



#15 orangeLJ

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Posted 05 May 2015 - 12:20 PM

I Polish and repair mag wheels as a side business

Located an hour north of Sydney.

Shoot me a pm with pictures if your wheels and ill give you a quote :)




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