I'm having real problems getting the heater box out. All the bolts at the back spin and I'm unable to do any thing with them. What a stupid set up I want to prime the car but I don t want to fill the plenum chamber with over spray. I'll get it out but I'll destroy the box doing it. Any ideas?
Lj Torana heater box removal
Started by
_Keiron_
, May 10 2015 10:21 AM
18 replies to this topic
#2
Potta
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- Name:Craig
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Posted 10 May 2015 - 10:52 AM
Are you undoing the right bolts?
You have to go up behind/under the dash from inside the car.
#3
Ice
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Posted 10 May 2015 - 10:57 AM
Worst job on an LJ Torana bloody heater box
#4
Potta
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Posted 10 May 2015 - 11:02 AM
Worst job on an LJ Torana bloody heater box
Closely followed by busted tunnels lol
#5
jd lj
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Posted 10 May 2015 - 11:06 AM
Don't worry about undoing the bolts in the engine bay that hold the fibreglass part to the steel base, remove the fan cover (3 nuts near the bonnet hinge) and then do the rest from under the dash. This will also remove all the ducting for the fan to the windscreen and the feet. Once all that is undone it may still be a bit stuck if it's never been out before, you may need to pry it loose.
#6
_datpsi_
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Posted 10 May 2015 - 12:22 PM
Just looked at this on mine..gonna be re installing with nutserts.
#7
madtoranajzedded
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Posted 10 May 2015 - 04:05 PM
they are the ones that are spinning James .dont need to remove those ones ,as said just do the others inside
#8
xu2308
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Grail Hunter
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Posted 11 May 2015 - 04:46 PM
The Heaterbox removal was made to test you, I am sure lol
#9
jd lj
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Posted 11 May 2015 - 05:59 PM
I think the installation is worse. I wouldn't have wanted that job on the production line.
#10
_Keiron_
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Posted 11 May 2015 - 06:57 PM
tempted to do away with the box and but a aftermarket one under the dash.
Mongrel thing
I got it out but really the nuts are in positions that are almost impossible to get too.
I had atleast 3 that would just spin in place with no way to get to the underside of them.
broke more of the box getting it out......
horrible job.
Engine bay would look ten times nicer without it in there any how.
#11
Ice
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Posted 11 May 2015 - 07:04 PM
Pmsl sorry but ive done that job several times its a Cunning Stunt of a job
#12
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 11 May 2015 - 07:11 PM
They do look better without.....
Cheers.
#13
jd lj
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Posted 12 May 2015 - 09:11 AM
That just depends on what type of look you're trying to achieve. Bomber has replaced his with another box.
Looks like you might have a coolant leak there bomber.
Looks like you might have a coolant leak there bomber.
#14
madtoranajzedded
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Posted 12 May 2015 - 01:06 PM
Now thats a tidy bay.very sexy
#15
joeseph
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Posted 17 May 2015 - 07:13 PM
that throttle cable would annoy me.. sure it could be done tidier if it went back thru the firewall directly behind carbs...
#16
madtoranajzedded
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Posted 17 May 2015 - 10:53 PM
nothing wrong with that bud.works better being centred.best setups arnt allways the prettiest.
had mine like that and worked way better
#17
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 18 May 2015 - 10:02 AM
Long curves, straight line to the pedal and pulling from the center of the linkage bar.....function over form.
#18
xu2308
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Posted 18 May 2015 - 04:14 PM
The Elec Heater thingy u can buy, I am thinking of putting it in side the heater box and mount it back on, and just blk of the water things on the Donk, for rego you are Ment to follow your original ADR's on your ID plate, but u think the Elec Heater thingy would be ok as it's doing the same Job.
#19
WhaleOilBeefHooked
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Lord Humungus The Ayatolla of Rock N Rolla.
- Name:Andrew
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Posted 18 May 2015 - 04:50 PM
I'm currently thinking of doing similar with one of those cabin mounted electric hotrod heaters ducted through original fan ducts... Cheap enough at cupl o hundred & way cheaper than rebuilding the factory eyesore plus there's no water in cabin scenarios......
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