Quick and simple question for the engine gurus on here.
I've got a completely rebuilt pre pollution 308, nothing special aside from a mild cam and a 9.3 comp, oh and it's 60thou over so it may run a little warm. Car will be used for weekend cruises and the occasional long haul drive.
Just want to know the best oil to run in it? I'll consult my engine builder of course but it's nice to get a few other opinions on the matter.
Thanks
308 Oil choice
Started by
_74LH_
, Aug 05 2015 12:10 PM
16 replies to this topic
#2
yel327
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Posted 05 August 2015 - 12:21 PM
20W-50 mineral or semi synth. There are plenty of quality alternatives around like Castrol GTX, Valvoline etc. I bought some Nulon 20W-50 semi synth for my HJ Premier 308 the other day, its engine is still unopened and 108,000kM.
#3
_74LH_
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Posted 05 August 2015 - 12:33 PM
20W-50 mineral or semi synth. There are plenty of quality alternatives around like Castrol GTX, Valvoline etc. I bought some Nulon 20W-50 semi synth for my HJ Premier 308 the other day, its engine is still unopened and 108,000kM.
Yeah that's pretty much what I've been told, some people have suggested one with zinc added also?
#4
yel327
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Posted 05 August 2015 - 01:44 PM
I've heard that too but I guess it depends upon how often you use it. Others here will know more on this than me.
#5
TerrA LX
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Posted 05 August 2015 - 03:32 PM
20/50 here too.
STP do a nice zinc additive if you feel the need.
Run it in on straight 30W with no additives and no synthetics first 1000klm
You can actually buy running in oil for this specific purpose.
Any additives or synthetics can prevent initial bedding in.
#6
_74LH_
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Posted 05 August 2015 - 05:37 PM
Thanks for the advice everyone, spoke to my engine builder and he's pretty much saying what you all are, so here's what I'm thinking:
First 1000klms of run in: Run In Oil (30W) mineral oil, no additives.
First change: 20W/50 semi synthetic, probably Nulon.
5000klm change (and every change afterwards): 15W/50 fully synthetic, probably Nulon as well.
Reason for going to a 15W/50 instead of the 20W is my engine builder reckons its a bit too heavy. Although he recommended using it as a go between the 30W run in and the 15W synthetic.
Also running a Ryco Z30 which probably means not that much.
Any issues with the above?
First 1000klms of run in: Run In Oil (30W) mineral oil, no additives.
First change: 20W/50 semi synthetic, probably Nulon.
5000klm change (and every change afterwards): 15W/50 fully synthetic, probably Nulon as well.
Reason for going to a 15W/50 instead of the 20W is my engine builder reckons its a bit too heavy. Although he recommended using it as a go between the 30W run in and the 15W synthetic.
Also running a Ryco Z30 which probably means not that much.
Any issues with the above?
#7
Ice
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Posted 05 August 2015 - 06:03 PM
Any oil as long as its not Castrol
#8
_74LH_
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Posted 05 August 2015 - 06:20 PM
Yeah I've been warned to stay away from Castrol and Penrite. Nulon will be my choice most likely, unless I hear something bad about them
#9
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Posted 05 August 2015 - 06:31 PM
Mobil 1 if you can find or afford it
#10
axistr
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Posted 05 August 2015 - 07:04 PM
Shell Rimula X 15w40 diesel oil been using it for 30 years. Holds better oil pressure over the live than any other oils I have tried.
#11
_Mint_
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Posted 05 August 2015 - 07:04 PM
Penrite HPR30 perfect for old school v8's...don't know what you've heard but Castrol is STILL very good they do a EDGE 25w50 also perfect for treeoeights
#12
axistr
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Posted 05 August 2015 - 07:10 PM
Castrol do a lot of repackaging of oils from other oil company's.
#13
TerrA LX
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Posted 05 August 2015 - 07:14 PM
I used to work at Valvoline and they used to pack non oil companies oils like ripco.
#14
_74LH_
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Posted 05 August 2015 - 07:17 PM
My engine builder said the worst cases of oil sludge in engines he's worked on or rebuilt have come from Castrol oils. For the record he doesn't recommend or promotes any other brands out of his shop so I believe he isn't just product bashing, he hasn't even mentioned a brand just which weights to go for
#15
axistr
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Posted 06 August 2015 - 08:31 AM
I wouldn't use Castrol in my lawn mower. After Castrol oils damages so many engines in the 70,80,90s with their GTX they started buying oil from Shell.
The oil was Shell's entry level oil meant for old oil burners and was priced accordingly. Still not a crap oil but Castrol marketed it as Castrol GTX2. their premium oil.
Recently I had oil left over in the shed that was given to me and is a full synthetic oil, Penrite 10w50hp, I decided to change the oil in the SLR believing it was better being full synthetic. I usually use Shell synthetic oil in my bemmer, but it was free so I drained out the Shell Rimular X only to find with the Penrite I had more oil pressure when it was cold and way less when it was hot, so much for multigrade. And the shell oil would have had some dilution and carbon in it as it had done 3,000km. I will do an oil change next week and put it back on Shell oil again.
Don't believe the fancy advertising guys, Shell & Caltex blend the best oil because they have the biggest budget to do so.
Been using Shell oils now for 30 years and changed to it then because we had problems with other oils. I have serviced may vehicles over the years including heavy vehicles exceeding 1.6 million km before the need for rebuilding, and the oil sees much more torture than the Torrie can throw at it.
#16
ozyozyozy
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Posted 06 August 2015 - 07:43 PM
I actually had isaues using shell.
The oil pressure would drip after a hard stage, which is normal but qould not recover by the time i lined to the get to the next stage at targa.
Castrol no problem.
We have uses the 20w50 edge i a few old motors with no issues.
Cam type has alot to do with oil type you use.
Driving style, has alot to do with what weight to use, Cruising, towing, long drives, short drives,
And internal clearances.
personally i think one oil for one person isent nessesarily what another person should use.
Its quite a tuff choice when you look more in depth.
The oil pressure would drip after a hard stage, which is normal but qould not recover by the time i lined to the get to the next stage at targa.
Castrol no problem.
We have uses the 20w50 edge i a few old motors with no issues.
Cam type has alot to do with oil type you use.
Driving style, has alot to do with what weight to use, Cruising, towing, long drives, short drives,
And internal clearances.
personally i think one oil for one person isent nessesarily what another person should use.
Its quite a tuff choice when you look more in depth.
#17
Ice
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Posted 06 August 2015 - 09:47 PM
Listen this this guy he is absolutely spot onI wouldn't use Castrol in my lawn mower. After Castrol oils damages so many engines in the 70,80,90s with their GTX they started buying oil from Shell.
The oil was Shell's entry level oil meant for old oil burners and was priced accordingly. Still not a crap oil but Castrol marketed it as Castrol GTX2. their premium oil.
Recently I had oil left over in the shed that was given to me and is a full synthetic oil, Penrite 10w50hp, I decided to change the oil in the SLR believing it was better being full synthetic. I usually use Shell synthetic oil in my bemmer, but it was free so I drained out the Shell Rimular X only to find with the Penrite I had more oil pressure when it was cold and way less when it was hot, so much for multigrade. And the shell oil would have had some dilution and carbon in it as it had done 3,000km. I will do an oil change next week and put it back on Shell oil again.
Don't believe the fancy advertising guys, Shell & Caltex blend the best oil because they have the biggest budget to do so.
Been using Shell oils now for 30 years and changed to it then because we had problems with other oils. I have serviced may vehicles over the years including heavy vehicles exceeding 1.6 million km before the need for rebuilding, and the oil sees much more torture than the Torrie can throw at it.
And so is your engine builder Castrol was bad for oil sludge its been well documented to
I run the Rimular X in my daily no probs for 11 years now
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