_Tucks123_
Posted 05 September 2015 - 09:12 AM
Just wondering on the best way to fit the bonnet hinges?
We had to cut the original pieces out, we took measurements but i was curious to see whether people have done this in the past and what method they used and whether they have any tips/tricks/measurements/drawings they could share.
Basically where it had been sandblasted back to bare metal is where we cut, following the lines on the back and the top section.
Cheers.
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Forum Fixture
Posted 05 September 2015 - 10:00 AM
This is what I done in this build. http://www.gmh-toran...er-parts/page-3
I just remade the outer plates out of some 3mm sheet with the nuts welded onto it and didn't put the original folds around the
edge which seem to catch all the dirt which helps create the rust in the first place.
Started on the rust behind the bonnet hinges, the only way to fix it is cut it all out.
Had to cut more than i thought. Before i cut it all out i scribed a line through the centre of the hinge holes and took some measurements.
Clamped some sheet behind the hole and made a scribe mark then cut it out. You can see the scribe line between the 2 black arrows for the bonnet hinge holes.
Tacked in the new piece and marked the hinge holes and a quick hammer. This is as far as i get because i ran out of gas for the tig.
Edited by turbo76lx, 05 September 2015 - 10:04 AM.
_Tucks123_
Posted 08 September 2015 - 07:42 AM
Cheers for that.
Turns out not long after i left the car, the old man had played around and fitted the bonnet hinges and measured it all up. Cant help himself!
But it's all good, will post photos when i get a chance.
Oh My, Don't you post alot
Posted 08 September 2015 - 08:36 AM
On my hatchback years ago I welded in replacement sections and got some 6mm zinc plated steel plates made up the same size as the original stiffeners and with the holes in the same spot and welded nuts to them. I just used 2 x small allen headed bolts to hold the plates in place that were hidden pretty much by the hinges. The clamping force of the bolts that hold the hinges on clamped the whole thing in place. Also sprayed Tectyl on the painted surface behind the skirt before the plates went on and also sprayed it again with the plates in place before I tightened up the hinge bolts. It was like that for 10 years or so and was fine when I sold the car maybe 5-7 years ago.
Posted 08 September 2015 - 01:23 PM
If you have 6 mm plate then you could drill and tap instead of welding on nuts. You could also glue the plates on with Butyl Mastic which would seal the plate and hold it in place when the hinges are removed.
Forum R&D Officer
Posted 08 September 2015 - 09:43 PM
I redid mine a few months back. I made mine 3mm flat plates with no bends at the edges and welded a 6mm block where the nuts go and drilled and tapped them. No lip to catch moisture and rust this time round.
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