Hey guys Im in the process of putting on my hopper stoppers kit in commie pattern, 290mm rotor. I have commodore VY S pack 16x7 inch rims, they are majorly hitting the upper control arm by about 15mm I can't lower the car as they put too much weight on it, they JUST dont hit when raised off the ground.
How can I push my wheels out about 20mm to clear the control arms? I dont really want to hear 'buy new rims' btw, as I've just forked out some hard earned cash to buy these and the hopper stoppers kit.
16x7 wheels hitting BAD
Started by
_Aidan_
, Jul 29 2006 07:10 PM
20 replies to this topic
#2
gtrboyy
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Posted 29 July 2006 - 08:15 PM
I thought they only touch the bleed nipple or are fairly close to touching,atleast that was what it looked like on my lc which I would have fixed by using the sealed upper ball joints from Repco but I ended going to 18's.No clearance issues at all as everything sits inside the wheel.
#3
_Aidan_
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Posted 29 July 2006 - 08:27 PM
they hit on the grease nipple and the actual arm itself. When the car is off the ground is scraps along it
#4
gtrboyy
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Posted 29 July 2006 - 08:34 PM
Only other way would be a engineered load carrying spacer.I had a set made for my lc but then didn't need to use it because I went 18's.
If you want I can take pics of them,they were engineer approved.
If you want I can take pics of them,they were engineer approved.
#5
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Posted 29 July 2006 - 08:40 PM
yeah man that would be great my email is aidang @ iinet . net . au (remove spaces) were they pricey?
#6
gtrboyy
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Posted 30 July 2006 - 11:30 PM
I got these from Gavsport,I think they cost me about $300 custom made.
#7
_Aidan_
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Posted 31 July 2006 - 12:11 AM
thanks gtrboy, pretty pricey for some spacers!!
#8
dattoman
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Posted 31 July 2006 - 12:16 AM
Cheaper than wasting hours infront of a lathe plus the steel/aluminium to turn them up
Spacers need to be permenantly affixed to the hub or wheel...... or they are illegal (even then they might still be due to increased load on the bearings)
Not to mention the need for longer studs
Why do people insist on using commodore offset wheels when they don't fit properly ?
Spacers need to be permenantly affixed to the hub or wheel...... or they are illegal (even then they might still be due to increased load on the bearings)
Not to mention the need for longer studs
Why do people insist on using commodore offset wheels when they don't fit properly ?
#9
_Aidan_
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Posted 31 July 2006 - 12:21 AM
my studs are long enough. I was assured they wouldn't be a drama with the hoppers kit yet they are. So you saying his engineered spacers are still illegal?
#10
dattoman
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Posted 31 July 2006 - 12:32 AM
Check with your engineer or rego dept before you buy would be my opinion
The drama isn't with the Hoppers kit
Its with the chosen wheels
An unfortunate circumstance I know. But not the fault of the kit.
You did buy the +8mm kit not the std offset one right ?
The drama isn't with the Hoppers kit
Its with the chosen wheels
An unfortunate circumstance I know. But not the fault of the kit.
You did buy the +8mm kit not the std offset one right ?
#11
_Aidan_
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Posted 31 July 2006 - 12:37 AM
as far as I know, told them what wheels etc I was using. I'll double check with them.
#12
gtrboyy
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Posted 31 July 2006 - 01:23 AM
I can't quite remember what the exact price was as these were a one-off thing at the time.
Gavsport even thought it was a bit overkill but If I was willing to pay,why not.
The amount of time,work & quality was more then I would have been able to achieve.
The whole kit cost $1900 which was bearings,hub adapters,330mm slotted discs,twin piston mustang calipers,pads,caliper adapters,bolts,custom brake hoses,3in wheel studs & the wheelspacers.
All this was done a few years back before you could get the big brake kits so I was paying for their time & expertise not to mention peace of mind.
The way I see it is that it was kind of pointless having a high powered lightweight car that can't stop & this thing stops so well it will almost put you through the windscreen.
Gavsport even thought it was a bit overkill but If I was willing to pay,why not.
The amount of time,work & quality was more then I would have been able to achieve.
The whole kit cost $1900 which was bearings,hub adapters,330mm slotted discs,twin piston mustang calipers,pads,caliper adapters,bolts,custom brake hoses,3in wheel studs & the wheelspacers.
All this was done a few years back before you could get the big brake kits so I was paying for their time & expertise not to mention peace of mind.
The way I see it is that it was kind of pointless having a high powered lightweight car that can't stop & this thing stops so well it will almost put you through the windscreen.
#13
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 31 July 2006 - 11:44 AM
The way I see it it would be just as pointless as having a low powered light weight car that cant stop.............why do you need to have a high performance engine to justify better stopping?The way I see it is that it was kind of pointless having a high powered lightweight car that can't stop & this thing stops so well it will almost put you through the windscreen.
#14
_Aidan_
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Posted 31 July 2006 - 05:36 PM
hoppers got bad to me, they said to take off the grease nipple, after greasing the balljoin and out a rubber plug in the hole. How excaltly would I take the grease nipple off?
#15
REDA9X
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Posted 31 July 2006 - 05:58 PM
if it's that close it's hiting the control arm, taking the nipple out won't help you. The grease nipple screws out, but I would be exploring the other options first. You may have to bite the bullet and trade in those wheels mate. Last thing I would want is an unsafe condition.
#16
Toranamat69
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Posted 31 July 2006 - 06:06 PM
I came across the same issue in the setup I want on my new front end I am doing - my solution is going to be run a CRS 2"HR drop stub axle - this will give me enough clearance to the rim.
Not cheap but if you also wanted to lower it it could kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
Just food for thought.
M@
Not cheap but if you also wanted to lower it it could kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
Just food for thought.
M@
#17
gtrboyy
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Posted 31 July 2006 - 06:13 PM
So they want you to to unscrew the grease nipple off the top ball joint & just replace it with a rubber plug?
DA:I agree that everyone should fit better brakes,it's just that you notice it more often to be modified cars.
DA:I agree that everyone should fit better brakes,it's just that you notice it more often to be modified cars.
#18
_Aidan_
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Posted 31 July 2006 - 06:54 PM
yeah thats what they said to do, i'll see if it clears doing that. BUT if it only clears my say a few mm, wouldn't it hit during suspension travel?
Im afraid my next option will be different rims
Im afraid my next option will be different rims
#19
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Posted 31 July 2006 - 11:08 PM
That didnt make any difference. What cars share the same stud pattern as commodore. I know BMW do and they have a 20P offset dont they? Any other cars? 17's fit in a lovell spring lowered UC/LX hatchback with the correct profile tyre?
#20
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Posted 01 August 2006 - 02:11 AM
Not sure but you might have to try vn-vs as they have more offset or vb-l,the old classic walkinshaw rims or older momos,even more offset & come in 16s.Bmw rims you have to get hub ring & come in funnier offsets apparently.
As chopper use to say 'try before you buy'.
As chopper use to say 'try before you buy'.
#21
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Posted 01 August 2006 - 09:11 PM
yeah some older BMW's come in 20P offset, which is close to what I need. I need 20 - 25P for the front. Are hub rings illegal?
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