Jump to content


Photo

Trans pan bolts - loctite - yay or nay


  • Please log in to reply
7 replies to this topic

#1 LXCHEV

LXCHEV

    Lotsa Posts!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,627 posts
  • Name:Brett
  • Location:Melbourne
  • Car:'76 LX - 383 Chev
  • Joined: 08-November 05

Posted 08 November 2015 - 06:16 PM

Just came inside after doing a basic service (filter, fluid and pan gasket) on the TH350. I'm running an alloy pan with stainless steel hex head bolts, fitted with plain round washers (not spring washers).

Last time I did this I used loctite on the bolts. When I removed them today, there were hardly any signs of loctite stuck to the bolt threads, however it was pretty clear loctite had stuck in the transmission threads (as spinning the bolts back up was quite firm and took a while to loosen them all up again ie. cleaning the internal threads).

I decided to refit them this time without any loctite, however I'm now second guessing myself. Do you guys use loctite or not? Do you have flat washers or spring washers.

I'm yet to actually re-fill the trans with fluid, so not too late to change my mind.

Keen to hear what others do.

I'm also using a black rubber gasket, not cork. Not that it should make any difference.

#2 _Ozzie Picker_

_Ozzie Picker_
  • Guests

Posted 08 November 2015 - 06:38 PM

I probably would not use loctite,

 

Why,cause 3 bolts snapped on a tranz i bought,that was the reason.

 

Just pull up firm,after first drive gently pull up a bit more,or torque wrench them again.


Edited by Ozzie Picker, 08 November 2015 - 06:38 PM.


#3 TerrA LX

TerrA LX

    Fulcrum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,241 posts
  • Location:Sid 'n' knee
  • Joined: 31-May 06

Posted 08 November 2015 - 06:48 PM

Never loctite anything the factory never did.

FWI careful using stainless bolts in alloy, they are non compatible alloys.
Probably just as mucha reason the threads in the box are feeling tight.



#4 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 08 November 2015 - 07:12 PM

Agreed with the bolts issue. 

I "loctite" everything, I just select the appropriate product. 

They have about 300 or so different products after all, and all do a different job.... 



#5 LXCHEV

LXCHEV

    Lotsa Posts!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,627 posts
  • Name:Brett
  • Location:Melbourne
  • Car:'76 LX - 383 Chev
  • Joined: 08-November 05

Posted 08 November 2015 - 07:40 PM

Hmmmm interesting! These bolts came as part of a kit from memory, but I could also be dreaming, it's been a while.

#6 TerrA LX

TerrA LX

    Fulcrum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,241 posts
  • Location:Sid 'n' knee
  • Joined: 31-May 06

Posted 09 November 2015 - 09:05 AM

I really do not understand the theory of locktite on a gasket bolt unless it is non hardening, gaskets are meant to be able to be torqued up as required, yes, rocker cover and sump gaskets do have torque settings...



Having something on the thread that was not meant to be there would change a torque setting dramatically.



#7 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 09 November 2015 - 11:25 AM

I use the blue non hardening stuff, forget which number now.

Your right though, the gasket should act like a spring washer.

#8 _71lc_1JZ_

_71lc_1JZ_
  • Guests

Posted 10 November 2015 - 02:42 PM

im with Bomber Loctite everything but as said use the correct product for the application and then u should have now worries

 

http://www.loctite.c...New-Zealand.htm






1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users