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Coolant leak between head and block


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#1 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 02 February 2016 - 03:38 PM

Guys, searching for some opinions on this one. Just put new rings and bearings in the 202, have only had it out for a few short runs and i noticed coolant weeping out (only a tiny amount) from between the gasket and the block and sitting directly below plugs 2 and 3 on top of the block between the top of the side plates and the gasket/head.

The block was decked a little more when I had it honed for rings and the head im running has only done 2 months worth of occasional weekend driving since I last had that shaved. So, both surfaces should be flat and true. Used a monotorque head gasket, ARP head studs were torqued to 75 ft lb's. Studs were sealed using GMH sealant.

Since first noticing the leak I've done the following: compression test, all 6 pots @ 175ish  psi. Plugs out, wound it over and no coolant came out the plug holes so this all says to me the gasket hasnt blown.

I torqued the studs to 80 ft lb's and dropped a bit of coolant and added water to thicken it up a little. Took it for  another strap yesterday got back and inspected and no leak. I went and checked today when I got home and there is still just the slightest hint of green coolant showing between gasket and block under plug #3.

What the hell is going on?  Nothing else has changed and I have never had this problem before. If I have to I will rip the head, inspect and try a new gasket. Or is this one of those things that can happen on occasion and should not be of major concern? The only other things I can think of are the block was not decked correctly, or maybe with the lesser original torque on the studs and a highly pressurized cooling system (i run a 20lb rad .cap) the coolant was simply being squeezed out past the gasket.

Im going to take it out tomorrow with a standard rad. cap and see what happens. In the meantime I could sure do with some feedback if anyone else has encountered this.



#2 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 02 February 2016 - 03:43 PM

Why do you have a 20psi radiator cap?

 

Check the ARP studs/nuts for stretch and check if they're fit for purpose (ie: the correct length - don't laugh...I've seen this shit done).

 

Is it possible you didn't clean the block/head surfaces adequately and something foreign got in there?



#3 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 02 February 2016 - 03:56 PM

Well I went to a radiator place to buy a 15 lb cap and on the "expert" advice of the bloke there, got a 20lb.

 

Studs are definitely correct, however they are on the older side. Same block/head/stud combo as before i freshened it up though and as I said, did not have this problem prior.

 

As for cleanliness, i'm fairly pedantic which is why im at a loss on this one.



#4 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 02 February 2016 - 04:08 PM

My god.

Throw that cap to the shithouse and fit a 15 psi cap & report back.



#5 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 02 February 2016 - 04:10 PM

Yep, don't have a 15 but have a standard. Am trying it tomorrow.....

#6 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 02 February 2016 - 05:06 PM

Could be a crack in the head next to the bolt hole? 

 

Do you have a radiator pressure tester, or an old radiator cap you can put a nitto fitting into?

 

Cheers. 



#7 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 02 February 2016 - 05:22 PM

I don't have a pressure tester but im fairly certain system is too pressurised. After a run and shutdown, even with temp not reading too high im loosing coolant out the overflow (non recovery and with an inch air gap in the rad.) And I hear it gurgling and bubbling and carrying on. Head is definitely not cracked. Recently tested and as I said before, was running it only 2 weeks ago before I re-ringed.

#8 _Mint_

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Posted 02 February 2016 - 05:51 PM

20 psi cap is too much I have a 13 psi one on my 308..you could re-torque the head bolts/studs just to check in case you missed one? as always start from the middle working outwards in a circular pattern

they need sealant on the head bolts? I know the v8's do not sure on the 6's

Edited by Mint Julip, 02 February 2016 - 05:53 PM.


#9 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 02 February 2016 - 05:53 PM

I can't think of any reason why a radiator shop would recommend you run a 20 psi cap EXCEPT they were hoping to sell you a radiator after you popped yours?

#10 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 02 February 2016 - 06:11 PM

Yeah I don't know mate, pretty sure that wasn't his motive. I've used him in the past and he seemed pretty switched on, he's been doing it for 30 years. What I do know is I wont be putting that cap back on. Im starting to feel hopeful that a cap change may fix my problem.

#11 _Muzzy_

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Posted 02 February 2016 - 06:20 PM

I had the same problem on my engine after a rebuild, I drained the coolant and run it on water for a while, then added coolant again and re tensioned the head, problem solved,

#12 S pack

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Posted 02 February 2016 - 07:24 PM

I can't think of any reason why a radiator shop would recommend you run a 20 psi cap EXCEPT they were hoping to sell you a radiator after you popped yours?

Perhaps the the idea of the 20lb cap is to reduce coolant loss from the radiator but still irresponsible to recommend a 20lb cap for a cooling system that is probably only just capable of holding 15lbs.



#13 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 02 February 2016 - 07:44 PM

Exactly.
I would never pressure test a cooling system to 20 psi...

#14 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 02 February 2016 - 08:11 PM

I had the same problem on my engine after a rebuild, I drained the coolant and run it on water for a while, then added coolant again and re tensioned the head, problem solved,

 

There's the answer right there. Drain the coolant and flush it all out. Run straight water for a few weeks before going back to coolant. The 20psi cap is a bit over the top but it's unlikely to be the cause of your leak. Always start off with plain water in a new build.



#15 warrenm

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Posted 02 February 2016 - 10:43 PM

What Muzzy & oldjohnno said, "Always start off with plain water in a new build" I rebuilt a SBC a few years ago with MLS gaskets, owner rings me up a said coolant was leaking between the head & block, he didn't listen when I said no coolant, water only, drain it & the oil. He heard blah blah blah.



#16 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 05:50 AM

Thanks all. Will drop the coolant, flush and run water for a while, along with the different cap.

#17 _walpolla_

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 09:11 AM

You say that the deck was machined along with the head. Check that the head bolts are not bottoming out in their holes and giving you a false torque reading.

 

         regards,Rod.



#18 piquet

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 09:41 AM

Or that the head hasn't bottomed out on the cylinder head locating lug.
Thi happened to my 186 .

#19 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 10:12 AM

Im running studs as above so not an issue and I always fit the head first without a gasket to check its not bottoming on the dowels.




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