Guys my accessories fuze - 15amp - keeps blowing.. beats me why.. but is it safe to put maybe a higher fuze on here.. if so what is recommended?
Thanx heaps.. by the way.. if there is n e one in brisbane who might be able to help a poor uni student out with having a look that would be great
Cheers
WHY FUSE KEEPS BLOWING
Started by
_canaryuc_
, Aug 03 2006 07:21 PM
12 replies to this topic
#2
_Herne_
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Posted 03 August 2006 - 07:25 PM
Have you noted what you turn on that blows the fuse? Sounds like something is obviously shorting out. The clue would be to what switch or function blows the fuse IMHO
Cheers
Herne
Cheers
Herne
#3
Tiny
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Posted 03 August 2006 - 08:42 PM
DO NOT just up the amperage of the fuse..
Fuses are designed as the weak point so that when there is a problem theyre the cheap and easy part to replace to save teh rest of the system! if you go bigger you can ( and probably will) burn your cabling leading to much bigger problems!
Anyway to try and help you with your question!
Have you made any changes recently? Installed a new stereo.. new headlights... anything like that? any mechanical work that may have damaged a wire?
As Herne said, when does it happen? is it something you can repeat? ( eg, it happens when i switch on the interior fan)... something like that
try beaking it down step by step to isolate the problem!
Best of luck i hate these littel gremlins!
Tiny,
Fuses are designed as the weak point so that when there is a problem theyre the cheap and easy part to replace to save teh rest of the system! if you go bigger you can ( and probably will) burn your cabling leading to much bigger problems!
Anyway to try and help you with your question!
Have you made any changes recently? Installed a new stereo.. new headlights... anything like that? any mechanical work that may have damaged a wire?
As Herne said, when does it happen? is it something you can repeat? ( eg, it happens when i switch on the interior fan)... something like that
try beaking it down step by step to isolate the problem!
Best of luck i hate these littel gremlins!
Tiny,
#4
TerrA LX
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Posted 03 August 2006 - 08:51 PM
as above i would say you have a short some where or overload.
short of that check connections for corosion as this will raise resistance/heat and blow a fuse constantly.
short of that check connections for corosion as this will raise resistance/heat and blow a fuse constantly.
#5
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 03 August 2006 - 09:35 PM
More information..........there are four fuses that can be called the accessory fuse in the UC, these being the ones that become active when you turn the key to the accessories position. 1Lighter/rear win. 2radio. 3blinkers/ wipers and 4heater fan.
Which of these dont work when the fuse goes? this will make the short/whatever easier to find.
Which of these dont work when the fuse goes? this will make the short/whatever easier to find.
#6
_1978SSHATCH_
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Posted 03 August 2006 - 09:53 PM
as above i would say you have a short some where or overload.
short of that check connections for corosion as this will raise resistance/heat and blow a fuse constantly.
Sorry to be a stick in the mud ALX76 but if you get a bad connection and the resistance is raised this does lead to heating at that point but lowers the voltage at that point and the current through that point , like a squeezed hose, but usually doesn't blow the fuse. You are right elsewise, sounds like a short circuit (lot less resistance through him).Excellant advice Tiny, never up the fuse value , you will definately damage wiring!
I know a good A/E in Mudgee, if you are ever down here...
Hope this helps,
Stuart
Connor Auto-Sparks P/L
0263727434
#7
_EXLXSL_
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Posted 04 August 2006 - 06:11 PM
I had trouble with my stereo blowing a fuse. Checked the unit on a 12 volt power supply and it was fine so I ignored it for a while. Went looking when I wanted to listen to the wireless. Found that the wires to the front right speaker ran back under the carpet below my feet - bare wires at a join were causing a short and blowing the fuse. All ran the wires via a more suitable route, re-joined then for next to nothing.
#8
_hrt1and2_
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Posted 05 August 2006 - 02:08 PM
well guys, i have got so much shit running of 1 fuse, it aint funny, and it never blows, i have the standard torrie stuff, 3 gauges, air horns, and two dummy light for handbrake and the four doors. so unless u got heaps running i dont think overloading would be the problem, have u tried a different brand of fueses? i knew someone who had a dodgey batch of fuses. but i reckon ur shorting out on something, like above, try nailing it down to a soruce.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#9
Bart
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Posted 12 August 2006 - 01:33 PM
You could always measure the current at the fuse, this will determine if its a dodgy fuse or current is too high.
Take the fuse out first then measure, do you know how to use a mulimeter by the way?
Take the fuse out first then measure, do you know how to use a mulimeter by the way?
Edited by Bart, 12 August 2006 - 01:35 PM.
#10
FastEHHolden
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Posted 12 August 2006 - 02:49 PM
only problem with that is that is that multimeter fuses are more expensive than car fuses and multimeters are usually only rated to 15A...if you can find someone with a "current claw" it will help..it is a claw that goes around the wire and it measures the current flowing in the wire without having to have that current go thru the multimeter.
My favoured way has already been said...work out what was working when it blew...then start having a very close look at the wiring between the fuse box and the accesories that are on that fuse.
My favoured way has already been said...work out what was working when it blew...then start having a very close look at the wiring between the fuse box and the accesories that are on that fuse.
#11
_torana_
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Posted 12 August 2006 - 03:19 PM
turn everything off in your car, i mean everything ( remove interior light as it turns on when door open ) and then turn everything on by itself one by one. ( lights , horn , wipers , indicators , brakes , interior light , radio , lights , heater , etc , etc )
The fault will make itself shown in due time, and then narrow down on that faulty circuit.
cheers julian
The fault will make itself shown in due time, and then narrow down on that faulty circuit.
cheers julian
#12
_Keithy's_UC_
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Posted 13 August 2006 - 06:37 AM
I used to carry heaps of 15A fuses in my UC because the radio use to keep buggering up. After a while it went away (because i had a new head unit installed professionally).
Check that its not your radio/stereo system as the newer ones can draw a fair bit of everything out of your system.
Cheers
Keith
Check that its not your radio/stereo system as the newer ones can draw a fair bit of everything out of your system.
Cheers
Keith
#13
_David-UC_
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Posted 16 August 2006 - 11:40 PM
How are you going with the short ciruit?
If they are blowing you should be able to disconnect the circuits from the back of the fuse box and isolate the faulty circuit from there.
Are the fuses blowing or are they burning?
The differance is a blown fuse will leave a gap showing the melted ends.
A burned fuse with usually show the entire fuse but the full length is overheated with a burned or crumpled look.
Burned fuses are normally an indication of an over loaded cicuit.
No short to earth but drawing too much current for the fuse to handle.
If that is the case you can measure the load with an ammeter then either fit the required higher rated fuse or split the circuits with another fuse.
Try and get fuses that are soldered through the end caps. You can see the fuse end protruding and soldered.
Those soldered internally can fail but still visibly look OK.
OK now that you've tested my memory on glass fuses I'll let you go and sort out your problem.
And in case your wondering I'm an auto sparky.
I'm currently using my son's log on name,we only joined this site the other day and are still going through it.
I'm loving it and its testing my memory on Toranas big time.
Stewart.(David-UC's Dad).
If they are blowing you should be able to disconnect the circuits from the back of the fuse box and isolate the faulty circuit from there.
Are the fuses blowing or are they burning?
The differance is a blown fuse will leave a gap showing the melted ends.
A burned fuse with usually show the entire fuse but the full length is overheated with a burned or crumpled look.
Burned fuses are normally an indication of an over loaded cicuit.
No short to earth but drawing too much current for the fuse to handle.
If that is the case you can measure the load with an ammeter then either fit the required higher rated fuse or split the circuits with another fuse.
Try and get fuses that are soldered through the end caps. You can see the fuse end protruding and soldered.
Those soldered internally can fail but still visibly look OK.
OK now that you've tested my memory on glass fuses I'll let you go and sort out your problem.
And in case your wondering I'm an auto sparky.
I'm currently using my son's log on name,we only joined this site the other day and are still going through it.
I'm loving it and its testing my memory on Toranas big time.
Stewart.(David-UC's Dad).
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