Hi guys
I have a LC GTR which i am having problems with, The car when going run's perfectly but after about 10mins the car just stops and wont start again, when the car won't start I have noticed that I am not getting any spark from the coil lead, so I changed the coil and put another electronic Dizzy in it, but again after it warms up the car stops, and wont start again, I have also tried running the car by removing the wire from the coil to the ignition and only having the wires from the dizzy to the coil and a wire straight from the battery to the coil but again after the car warms up it wont go, does any one have any suggestions as to what it might be or any suggestions as to what i should be checking cheers Tom
car wont go help needed
Started by
_thommoo_
, Aug 06 2006 04:57 PM
11 replies to this topic
#2
_ChiaLX_
_ChiaLX_
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Posted 06 August 2006 - 05:17 PM
what motor have you got? My old Vl used to do the same thing and it was the Crank angle sensor. Another thing to check could be the module on the dizzy.
When did this start happening? have you changed or touched anything in the engine bay prior to this happening?
When did this start happening? have you changed or touched anything in the engine bay prior to this happening?
#3
_thommoo_
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Posted 06 August 2006 - 07:18 PM
The car is running a 186 red motor, and the problem just started happening out of the blue about a week ago cheers Tom
#4
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 06 August 2006 - 07:27 PM
Electronic dizzy has additional pair of wires (pink & green) that need to run off the coil, which feeds the module. Sounds like a module problem. Don't ask me which pole pink and green runs from, but should work either way, so long as one is connected to each side of the coil. The proper way is optimal for high revs though. I could go down the shed and check.
Reminds me, best go take car off the charger.
Reminds me, best go take car off the charger.
#5
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 06 August 2006 - 07:35 PM
Got it. Pink to positive, green to neg terminal.
Simple easy to remember new rule:-
Pink = P for Positive
Green = G for Ground
Simple easy to remember new rule:-
Pink = P for Positive
Green = G for Ground
#6
_mike_nofx_
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Posted 06 August 2006 - 08:46 PM
Does the engine crank at all? im guessing yes.
My car sometimes wont re-start after its hot (only when its real hot such as idling for long periods). But it dont crank at all when it does this.
My car sometimes wont re-start after its hot (only when its real hot such as idling for long periods). But it dont crank at all when it does this.
#7
Tiny
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Posted 06 August 2006 - 10:05 PM
It could be a dodgey fuse or wire heating up or a module problem. Any of these could show a fault when hot due to expansion loosing connection!
There is also a circuit breaker available that heats up when over current and trips out.. then resets when cooled.
A fuse or wire ( or contact) could be heating up, Loosing connection, cooling and re-making connection.
Best of luck!
There is also a circuit breaker available that heats up when over current and trips out.. then resets when cooled.
A fuse or wire ( or contact) could be heating up, Loosing connection, cooling and re-making connection.
Best of luck!
#8
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 07 August 2006 - 01:58 AM
It sounds like you now have two coils and two dizzies. When it stops next time, swap over the coil "for a cold one" ....if thats not the prob........swap over the dizzy "for a cold one".
It would seem remarkable that you have two coils and/or dizzies with the same fault, but if spark is disappearing and you are connecting coil straight to the battery then the fault has to be within these two components.............have we looked at the ht lead going from the coil to the dizzy?, swap that over with one of the leads to the plugs. Describe how you are testing for spark.......and does that same test reveal spark when things are cold.
It would seem remarkable that you have two coils and/or dizzies with the same fault, but if spark is disappearing and you are connecting coil straight to the battery then the fault has to be within these two components.............have we looked at the ht lead going from the coil to the dizzy?, swap that over with one of the leads to the plugs. Describe how you are testing for spark.......and does that same test reveal spark when things are cold.
Edited by devilsadvocate, 07 August 2006 - 02:04 AM.
#9
Dangerous
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Posted 07 August 2006 - 12:26 PM
Not sure if I understand your original post, but have you replaced one electronic distributor with another one? The modules in the Commodore style electronic ignitions can cause a fault like you describe when they fail - fine when cold, but when they heat up, you either get a weak spark, or none at all. The older original units are getting quite old now, so its not impossible that you have two faulty ignition modules.
The modules are still available new for around $50 - try to find a genuine Bosch unit rather than a copy. If you do replace it, use some heatsink grease between the module and the alloy base, and tighten it down well.
Less common a fault, but still a possibility is the stator coil in the distributor having a dodgy connection.
The modules are still available new for around $50 - try to find a genuine Bosch unit rather than a copy. If you do replace it, use some heatsink grease between the module and the alloy base, and tighten it down well.
Less common a fault, but still a possibility is the stator coil in the distributor having a dodgy connection.
#10
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 07 August 2006 - 12:47 PM
^ that's what made me think it might actually be the wiring to the module. New modules come with the heat conducting silcone. Very unusual to have two badies.
#11
_thommoo_
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Posted 07 August 2006 - 06:21 PM
Thanks for all your help guys I went and got another complete dizzy from the wreckers and the car seems to be running fine now Cheers Tom
#12
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 08 August 2006 - 09:29 AM
Good stuff. Have a peek at the trouble shooting section on the Bosche site. The symptoms you mentioned seem to indicate module. Not using the heat sink silicone will also create the same issue if somebody changed a module without using it.
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