hey guys, just wondering what sort of options there are for pressure plates behind a holden six. I've been using standard blue motor pressure plates and a solid brass button clutch, that have had extra drive straps and also been machined. The first one ripped the pin holding the drive straps out of the cast, and with the second one, the inner ring (not sure what to call it) that runs around the inside of the fingers has came loose.
Have also had trouble with clutch slipping, Is there any other clutch setup that can be used? Would a sprung button clutch be better for street aswell as strip. Would like to try a standard clutch, but don't know how it'd hold up?
Any Ideas??
Cheers Les
What pressure plate to use
Started by
mrlctorana
, Aug 11 2006 01:15 AM
10 replies to this topic
#1
mrlctorana
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Posted 11 August 2006 - 01:15 AM
#2
_UCV80_
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Posted 11 August 2006 - 02:42 AM
I just got my new clutch ordered in, a sprung Ceramic button clutch, im told it will be drivable for street use..
Its got an extream presure plate, havnt seen it yet though. it will be able to hold a crap load of hp with no slips,
Not sure how a standard blue clutch would hold up with a 13sec motor. who knows
Its got an extream presure plate, havnt seen it yet though. it will be able to hold a crap load of hp with no slips,
Not sure how a standard blue clutch would hold up with a 13sec motor. who knows
#3
rodomo
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Posted 11 August 2006 - 07:30 AM
Holden 1 tonner have a stronger pressure plate. Harder to push the pedal though.
#4
warrenm
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Posted 11 August 2006 - 08:36 AM
If you are in NSW give Western Clutch Service on 96231233 & they will build you a clutch to suit, & possibly cheaper than buying a standard unit. Sounds like you need to move away from a cast iron plate & move to a steel one. www.westernclutch.com.au
#5
_82911_
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Posted 11 August 2006 - 08:52 AM
The final solution........
After many years of slipping clutches and so-called experts trying to create a clutch that will hold up to racing abuse.
This is what I now use.
Problem solved.
Cheers Greg..
After many years of slipping clutches and so-called experts trying to create a clutch that will hold up to racing abuse.
This is what I now use.
Problem solved.
Cheers Greg..
#6
_draglc_
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Posted 11 August 2006 - 01:21 PM
Damn greg a triple plate clutch? What does that cost you?
A1
A1
#7
_UCV80_
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Posted 11 August 2006 - 02:20 PM
that tripple plate clutch looks awsome ^^
#8
_82911_
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Posted 11 August 2006 - 04:10 PM
They aren't cheap... but neither is breaking and replacing standard ones, not to mention all the race meets that you DNF at because of a clutch slipping...
$800 for the OT III Tilton and a little more for the upmarket Sonic model (lighter)
You have to get your flywheel machined to accept the pressure plate or you can use the one pictured that has it's own flywheel and bolts to a flexplate...
At $800... sure it is a fair bit of dough... but it is the last time you will ever buy a clutch... they ate rated to 1100ft/lbs of torque...
Cheers Greg..
$800 for the OT III Tilton and a little more for the upmarket Sonic model (lighter)
You have to get your flywheel machined to accept the pressure plate or you can use the one pictured that has it's own flywheel and bolts to a flexplate...
At $800... sure it is a fair bit of dough... but it is the last time you will ever buy a clutch... they ate rated to 1100ft/lbs of torque...
Cheers Greg..
#9
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 11 August 2006 - 06:26 PM
you hope 
.
na, looks the goods ey.box will fall to bits before that breaks.
.na, looks the goods ey.box will fall to bits before that breaks.
#10
mrlctorana
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Posted 11 August 2006 - 06:31 PM
If only I had the money, thats the way I'd like to go and for $800 it's a pretty good option, I'm on my second clutch and third pressure plate so it could've been paid for.
Took the clutch and plate up to my clutch guy today, He said the cause of the failure was due to having the cable adjusted a little too tight, and constat pressure has caused the round ring to wear a flat surface and therefore come loose.
I had a problem with the cable in the way that when I had it adjusted correctly I didn't have enough pedal to disengage the clutch completely and then when I adjusted it so I did have a pedal there was constant pressure on the diaphram, which eventually cause clutch to start slipping and also pressure plate failure. I can either source a new cable or fit a spacer to shorten the cable and give me more pedal which will work fine.
So the Clutch guy has my Pressure plate and is fitting a new diaphram, also machining it and my flywheel and also rebuttoning my clutch for $160 all up. I asked him about a sprung button and he said no go with my application as it will eventually spit springs out.
Another problem is the flywheel, when I unbolted it only 2 of the bolts felt like they were still as tight as they should be, others were tight but not like they should be, When I bolted it up both surfaces were clean and gone over with emery paper then 2 bolts torqued up to spec, then the rest loctited and torqued up and then the first two loctited and torqued up. Done it that way so no loctite makes it's way between the flywheel and crank while bolting it up...
So the flywheel flange and the crank flange are being machined aswell and some new flywheel bolts, I remeber Greg telling me about some chev flywheel bolts that have a locking washer that can be used on the holden six flywheel???
Took the clutch and plate up to my clutch guy today, He said the cause of the failure was due to having the cable adjusted a little too tight, and constat pressure has caused the round ring to wear a flat surface and therefore come loose.
I had a problem with the cable in the way that when I had it adjusted correctly I didn't have enough pedal to disengage the clutch completely and then when I adjusted it so I did have a pedal there was constant pressure on the diaphram, which eventually cause clutch to start slipping and also pressure plate failure. I can either source a new cable or fit a spacer to shorten the cable and give me more pedal which will work fine.
So the Clutch guy has my Pressure plate and is fitting a new diaphram, also machining it and my flywheel and also rebuttoning my clutch for $160 all up. I asked him about a sprung button and he said no go with my application as it will eventually spit springs out.
Another problem is the flywheel, when I unbolted it only 2 of the bolts felt like they were still as tight as they should be, others were tight but not like they should be, When I bolted it up both surfaces were clean and gone over with emery paper then 2 bolts torqued up to spec, then the rest loctited and torqued up and then the first two loctited and torqued up. Done it that way so no loctite makes it's way between the flywheel and crank while bolting it up...
So the flywheel flange and the crank flange are being machined aswell and some new flywheel bolts, I remeber Greg telling me about some chev flywheel bolts that have a locking washer that can be used on the holden six flywheel???
#11
_alx ss_
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Posted 12 August 2006 - 12:21 PM
Is the triple plate any good for street use?
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