8 replies to this topic

[dannygtrxu1]

Have just removed old booster and installed a vh44e under the driver side guard and a 1” bore wilwood master to firewall.
I’m not a 100% sure on plumb to the remote booster.
I’ve done a quick diagram can any one tell me if the is correct way to plumb it all up??

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[dron]

I do not know how to add the proportioning valve in this set up but I would think if 1 side was boosted and 1 side was not the result would be the brake warning light will turn on. The light is set off by a pressure difference in the front to rear systems.

[S pack]

From the Hydroboost website. http://www.hydroboos...au/techtalk.htm

 

VH 40s and 44s can be made in a multitude of outputs and mounting configurations to replicate virtually any original equipment booster installation as well as being able to be configured to suit all types of original applications.

 

When choosing a booster for your car we need to know what type of foundation brakes you are using  ie. whether you're using drums or discs, what size are your brakes, are you running a single or a split hydraulic system ,how much room do you have, are you going to mount the booster under the front guard,, or maybe in the boot or under  the bonnet? All these facts need to be considered when choosing a booster for  your car.

 

If you are using a dual hydraulic system in most cases you will need to run two hydraulic boosters, one for the front and one for the rear or in some cases if the balance of the front and rear is suitable you can boost the front only. Obviously a mastervac or mechanical booster is more suited to a dual hydraulic setup for many reasons, so room permitting, this is the way to go.

[dattoman]

A road car should require both ends booster as per factory setup

The valve is just a switch block for the warning light and doesn't do any proportioning anyway

 

Are you doing this for rocker cover clearance with a V8 ?

[dannygtrxu1]

Hey dattoman

Yes doing it for clearance.

Can i run a T fitting from the rear and front into the booster  then another T fitting out from the booster into the proportioning valve as normal??

Or have heard a few guys running no booster at all

 

 

 

 

[lakeside]

Hey dattoman

Or have heard a few guys running no booster at all

I been reading on Facebook of just using a Wilwood master cylinder and passes brake test

[dron]

Connecting the 2 sides of the master cylinder together would not pass any inspection. There is 2 separate outputs from the master so that if you have a failure on 1 the other lets you stop the car. It has been required from about the HK to run a twin system. No booster would be better than connecting them together.  May be a high brake peddle pressure needed to stop though.

[rexy]

I have the underguard setup as you described with unboosted rear drums. Stops just fine.

Also used to have a Peugeot 404 with remote boosted fronts only. This was a common conversion. Also braked just fine and was much better than the unboosted set up.

The guy at hydroboost used to do a special dual diaphragm booster for V8 LC/LJ to improve clearance. Don’t remember the cost.
He is very helpful on the phone.

[basicgreen]

all so if putting booster under the gard you should talk to hydroboost. he makes a fitting that makes the booster breath hot air from engine bay.. if dont may fill with condensation and rust out..i have my hose go over gear box and get the hot air from the extractors and cant see from the bay.. my to cents