I was advised recently to use a Penrite petrol fuel stabiliser in my XU1 tank as I was told unleaded petrol absorbs moisture more than the leaded fuels did, and because of this can cause rust to form in the tanks. My tank sat empty in a shed for 20years so before filling it, I inspected the inside with a bore camera and all the original lead fuel had evaporated leaving a couple of small puddles of what looked like red transmission fluid on the bottom. I was advised and am using BP 98 and an upper cylinder lube called 'Flash Lube' valve saver fluid in conjunction with the previously mentioned Penrite product. What's the general consensus with members? should I be using a different product/s to ensure no rust forms in my tank? is there a better upper cylinder lube?? My car is just standard XU1 spec engine.

Fuel Additives - Whats the general consensus.
#1
Posted 06 May 2019 - 07:34 PM
#2
Posted 06 May 2019 - 08:47 PM
Never heard of that one before. You sure they weren't talking about E10?
I use 98 Premium unleaded and occasionally add some Nulon lead replacement valve saver to a tank top up but that is all.
#3
Posted 06 May 2019 - 09:00 PM
#4
Posted 07 May 2019 - 12:14 AM
#5
Posted 07 May 2019 - 05:51 AM
#6
Posted 07 May 2019 - 06:15 AM
My understanding is the red stuff that is left behind is the dye that was used to tint the fuel.
Edited by S pack, 07 May 2019 - 06:17 AM.
#7
Posted 07 May 2019 - 07:32 AM
The best way to prevent the tank from rusting, is keep the tank full when parked up or you can coat the tank with a product from POR15 http://www.ppcco.com.au/por19.html or KBS coatings www.kbs-coatings.com.au/product/auto-fuel-tank-sealer-kit/ . I used the KBS product & it still hanging on to the tank.
#8
Posted 07 May 2019 - 07:45 AM
Unleaded fuel is no more hygroscopic (moisture absorbent) than leaded fuel, it's the ethanol blends which have this problem.
If you have a car which spends a lot of time parked, which our old guys tend to, avoid using E10.
As 'warrenm' said the best way to avoid tank rust is to keep the tank full. No real difference between 91 & 98 in that regard.
Dr Terry
#10
Posted 07 May 2019 - 11:33 AM
My understanding is the red stuff that is left behind is the dye that was used to tint the fuel.
ah ok. sounds like that would be about right. Any idea what type of fuel? unleaded, leaded or both or a particular RON, In W.A. I also can't remember if there were different grades back then.
#11
Posted 07 May 2019 - 11:37 AM
ah ok. sounds like that would be about right. Any idea what type of fuel? unleaded, leaded or both or a particular RON, In W.A. I also can't remember if there were different grades back then.
Red was the colour used for Super
Standard was more yellowy orange.
#12
Posted 07 May 2019 - 11:37 AM
Avgas is in the process of being phased out in SA, soon to be unavailable to us. Not sure if other states are the same.
hope it still cost $1/litre like it did last time I bought some?
#13
Posted 07 May 2019 - 11:40 AM
Modern unleaded certainly does go stale. I have bought dozens of paddock bashers, usually for a couple of hundred bucks, or even for free because they have been sitting in someone's back yard for a couple of years and won't start. I have trailered them home and drained the (very smelly) stale fuel from the tank and refilled it with fresh stuff and they fire up straight away.
My father had an EH that he parked up out the back when he bought his HQ in 1974. It sat there for 11 years before my brother and I stuck a battery in and fired it up.
I also have a VH SS that sat in my shed without being started for two years, and it wouldn't run right even though I had put fresh fuel in it. It turned out to have some sort of mould growing inside the tank, and no matter how many times we shook blue metal around in it, we couldn't get it clean and had to find another tank. And you would be surprised how hard it is to find one for a VH commodore.
#14
Posted 07 May 2019 - 11:46 AM
Red was the colour used for Super
Standard was more yellowy orange.
thanks!
seems so far back I would have fully understood if nobody remember something like that. no way I can. So now I know that means I used to run leaded which is helpful. was kind of hoping not as it was reubilt with new valves and thought it was maybe at the changeover time to unleaded. but now I know I'll keep on with the additive.
#15
Posted 07 May 2019 - 01:24 PM
Red was the colour used for Super
Standard was more yellowy orange.
If memory serves me correctly the 96 RON LRP (lead replacement petrol) was a purple colour.
#16
Posted 07 May 2019 - 01:38 PM
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#17
Posted 07 May 2019 - 04:32 PM
From the google research I've done, sounds like there is no hard and fast rule relating to additives in unleaded fuel in early model cars with cast valve seats. Mabey I'm over thinking the issue or mabey the valve saver additive concept is just a con like a lot of car care products. I mean who has unbiasedly tested these products. Too many variables to get an accurate assessment of their claims.
#18
Posted 07 May 2019 - 05:11 PM
I have never run an additive in my old cars and never had any dramas everQuite a few people report running no additives in unleaded in cast iron head engines with no apparent seat recession. I use an additive which stops unleaded going off for a year or so.
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#19
Posted 07 May 2019 - 05:53 PM
Quite a few people report running no additives in unleaded in cast iron head engines with no apparent seat recession. I use an additive which stops unleaded going off for a year or so.
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It's called stabil, available at repco ect.
#20
Posted 08 May 2019 - 05:40 AM
hope it still cost $1/litre like it did last time I bought some?
Nah, like $2.50 and up. You need a cams licence too.
#21
Posted 08 May 2019 - 06:25 AM
Nah, like $2.50 and up. You need a cams licence too.
From 1 July 2019, leaded fuel is not permitted for use in any CAMS sanctioned motor sport, in line with the Australian Government’s decision to ban the use of lead in fuel for motor sport.
#22
Posted 08 May 2019 - 11:07 AM
Nah, like $2.50 and up. You need a cams licence too.
Except when you have a friend with a light aircraft.
There were some places where you could buy it without drama.
But they were running a risk.
But are 2 octane points really worth the trouble?
#23
Posted 08 May 2019 - 01:18 PM
#24
Posted 08 May 2019 - 04:09 PM
I'm interested in seeing the prep work involved cleaning up the inside of a tank, for the por15 or kbs ect.
#25
Posted 08 May 2019 - 06:35 PM
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