10 replies to this topic

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

What did your engine builder recommend?

[Redslur]

Gees I would have said the more zinc the better...

[myss427]

Most don't like the oils that have additives in them, as rings don't bed in too well. Just use a good diesel oil, the detergents will be good for a new engine, flush out after 500k's.

[LC-GTR-1969]

i have a brand new forged bottom end in a 186 turbo with a big solid cam 246/246 @50,i was told not to use run in oil with big solid cams like penrite 15/40 zinc cause it can do damage to the cam.if this is correct what would be a good quality motor oil to use.thanks lawn bowls

 

To be honest, I have no idea what angle the builder is coming from.. Some run-in oils may not have high zinc but penrite 15/40 does and is perfect for big solid flat tappet cams.. You can also run the zinc additive penrite sell which may help even more. 

 

In saying that, i'd do what the builder requests as if there is a problem, even if its unrelated to oil, he may no be intersted in warrantying it.. 

[grumpy xu1]

A friend of mine builds a few blown engines & holden v8 ski boat engines, his preference is molybdenum oil & not zinc, we spoke about the oil to run in another friends 186 & that was his suggestion.

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

Just use any half decent mineral oil and as you said, a bottle of additive. Job done.
For my recent break in we used good old Nulon high mileage 20/50w and a bottle of additive. I have a very good engine builder.

[myss427]

You have to be careful with additives, as the rings might not bed in!

[Rockoz]

Perhaps a little off topic.

 

Run it in then consider finding a stockist of Slick 50.

I had some great results with that stuff over the years.

 

In an old engine, it freed up the rings and brought all cylinder compressions up to a reasonable number. There was about a 40 lb variance prior, less than 5 after.

 

I used some of their 2 stroke product in motocross bike I used to race at club level.

It meant I could drop the oil down to a negligible amount. After 6 months of racing and riding in the bush I measured up the ring and barrel numbers and compared them to new. Zero wear.

 

Had a couple of friends use it in their trucks.

Both were short of money at the time. One needed diffs rebuilt, the other the engine in his Volvo.

3 years later the diffs hadnt been touched, and were running 30 degrees cooler than they had ever done previously.

The friend with the Volvo was waiting for the engine to go bang, 2 years later he traded it in a new truck, went another 3 years that I knew of without blowing.

[Lima31]

A friend of mine builds a few blown engines & holden v8 ski boat engines, his preference is molybdenum oil & not zinc, we spoke about the oil to run in another friends 186 & that was his suggestion.

Take care with molybdenum, needs to be MoDTC derivatives, not the molybdenum disulfide in assembly lube that clogs up engine filters