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Fitting a drop tank - help


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#1 _gidday_

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 10:21 AM

Hi Folks

Well the drop tank has arrived from Brown Davis and its very nice. As others have indicated the quality of the workmanshp is superb. What is not so great is no fitting instructions, nothng, nada. I hate to whinge but you would think that for $1100 they might be able to supply fitting instructions. Things like the reason we have given you 6" bolts is because ...... and heres a heap of bolts and washers to go with it.

Now the question. If anyone has fitted a Brown Davis drop tank to an LX, and I'm sure there are heaps, can they give me a quick rundown on the installation.

Here are some quick questions that come to mind. There must be other things that I am missing:
I assume that I have to bolt all the way through the chassis rails and into the boot.
I am unsure of the strap mounting points. Do I have to remove them?
How far forward backward/forward is the tank fitted. I'm guessing it fits as tight as possible forward.
Where do I get a filler tube from? Do I cut it off the old tank?

Thanks for any help.

Joe

Joe

#2 Litre8

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 11:40 AM

I assume that I have to bolt all the way through the chassis rails and into the boot.
>> Correct, I used vary large washes under the nut on the boot side.

I am unsure of the strap mounting points. Do I have to remove them?
>> I did, cut off with angle grinder. Not sure if its a necessity, I think the rearmost ones may foul the new tank.

How far forward backward/forward is the tank fitted. I'm guessing it fits as tight as possible forward.
>> Mine sits as far rearward as possible, just less than 1cm from edge of beaver (?) panel.

Where do I get a filler tube from? Do I cut it off the old tank?
>> yes.


And can you qualify the name in your avatar ;)

#3 LXCHEV

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Posted 03 September 2006 - 11:40 PM

Agree with everything Howard said. I used to work at Brown Davis a long time ago, and with regard to the original tank strap mounting points - yes it was common practice to remove them with an angle grinder... I don't think the tank will sit flush if you don't.... shoot some paint over that area once you're finished to help prevent rust.

I'm not sure if there's a set position (forwards/backwards).. but from memory, my tank actually sits totally flush with that rear beaver panel.

Take your time working out the filler tube length. You'll need to hacksaw the filler neck off your old tank... the fitting kit should have come with a length of large diameter hose... use this with a couple of large hose clamps to connect the filler neck to your tank. You may need to trial-fit it a couple of times to get the length spot-on to where you want it.

While you're under the car, replace any other fuel lines that you can. They'll be old and cracking if they're the originals. I recently had some issues with one of mine, a tiny split that caused intermittent leaks.... depending on the angle of the car and level of fuel in the tank! You don't want fuel leaks, so do yourself a favour and put some nice new fresh hoses in...

Let us know how you go :)

Edited by LXCHEV, 03 September 2006 - 11:41 PM.


#4 GML-31

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Posted 04 September 2006 - 07:04 AM

^ I am sure the boys above have everything sussed for you, and yes replace all fuel lines at 30 years of age they are just waiting to drip on your exhaust and say goodbye to your car.
And Howard... I take it the little avatar has you worried!!!

#5 Litre8

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Posted 04 September 2006 - 12:36 PM

Yes when I first saw the avatar I thought 'What the ...???' till the WAR reference sunk in.




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