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Replacing ignition barrel


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#1 rhon4

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Posted 21 November 2023 - 05:55 PM

Hi all.  I need to replace the ignition barrel in the WB as the key has snapped off inside.  I've read up on it and the only question I have at present (knowing me there will be more) is what position do I need to have the key/barrel in before I remove the barrel.  Some say "accessories" and some say "on" but without defining exactly which model they are referring to.  I believe up to late HZ the barrel was the same, then changed to a black, single ear at the key, which is obviously what I have.

 

Also (second question already) any tips etc would be appreciated.



#2 claysummers

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Posted 21 November 2023 - 10:34 PM

Same as early Commodore, VB, VC, VH, VK?

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#3 Bigfella237

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Posted 22 November 2023 - 09:59 AM

The "Accessory" position is one click backwards (anti-clockwise) from "LOCK" and is not where it needs to be to remove the barrel (some barrels will even allow you to click back to the Accessory position without having the key in the barrel at all).

 

To remove the barrel it needs to be in the "Off" position, which is one click forward from "LOCK", this will allow the little tab to be depressed and the barrel to slide out.

 

Some (or most) coffee pots, if they've never been apart before, may have a thin layer of diecast alloy covering the slot that you need access to for depressing the tab on the barrel. You'll have to punch through that with a screwdriver or similar.

 

I can't remember the exact details but if importing an American barrel, I'd suggest first having a read of Heath's build thread. I'm sure he went through a few different versions before finding one that worked (something about the key lands being different to AU models or similar)?



#4 4dabush

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Posted 22 November 2023 - 09:45 PM

Mine was a compete b@stad to remove…I had the whole coffee pot out and the tab in my barrel is slightly angled back towards the key and will not press down evenly to allow it to be removed easily. Persistence, an extra pair of hands and a plastic Mtb tyre lever under the gear and finally managed to persuade the barrel to pass the locking tab, and it came straight out.  So, being a goose, I immediately reinstalled the barrel to prove it shouldn’t be that difficult to remove…and yep, spent about another 20 mins getting it out again.  It’s now only going back together for final assembly! 



#5 rhon4

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Posted 24 November 2023 - 06:08 PM

The "Accessory" position is one click backwards (anti-clockwise) from "LOCK" and is not where it needs to be to remove the barrel (some barrels will even allow you to click back to the Accessory position without having the key in the barrel at all).

 

To remove the barrel it needs to be in the "Off" position, which is one click forward from "LOCK", this will allow the little tab to be depressed and the barrel to slide out.

 

Some (or most) coffee pots, if they've never been apart before, may have a thin layer of diecast alloy covering the slot that you need access to for depressing the tab on the barrel. You'll have to punch through that with a screwdriver or similar.

 

I can't remember the exact details but if importing an American barrel, I'd suggest first having a read of Heath's build thread. I'm sure he went through a few different versions before finding one that worked (something about the key lands being different to AU models or similar)?

Ok I got it, thanks 






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