9 replies to this topic

[Muzza]

 Hi All

started my new 253 build and ran the cam in as per cam instructions, then drove it about 60km

it developed a tick/clack

1 only lifter and 1 cam lobe toasted

heres the results, see pics

Lunatic Yoodoo Camshaft 207/213@050 ( so not aggressive)

Crow lifters 

love hear people views and theory’s and how to stop this happening again, it first time I’ve every seen a cam go that quick

Attached Files

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•  IMG_4196.jpeg   104.15K   2 downloads

[76lxhatch]

Yeah if they're going to do that it does generally happen almost immediately. Unfortunately it can be a bit hit-and-miss with quality these days, if it survives the day then you're good. Quality lube on the cam lobe and bottom of the lifter and cross your fingers (with proper run-in procedure of course).

[Muzza]

Yeah if they're going to do that it does generally happen almost immediately. Unfortunately it can be a bit hit-and-miss with quality these days, if it survives the day then you're good. Quality lube on the cam lobe and bottom of the lifter and cross your fingers (with proper run-in procedure of course).

I used all the correct lubes and some, and oils etc, and running RPM etc

thinking may go roller cam hang the expense 

[LJ RB30]

Had the cam lobe been repaired?
I had a genuine XU1 cam years ago that 1 lobe repaired with stellite? from memory.
It ripped the ass out of the standard lifter in a fresh engine.
The usual lifter tick all disappeared, except for one.
Drove it a few times and then finally pulled the lifter out to find the destruction.
Cam was removed and taken into Wade cams and the guy said straight away, you need to run hardened base lifters on repaired lobes🤦
Hard lesson to learn on apprentice wages.

[yel327]

I have been hearing stories on US forums, where they all go looking for old stock lifters as all new stuff is junk. One thread reckoned that they are not even radiused anymore, and they have to radius grind them before using. That is why I decided to go to hydraulic rollers, then I have been hearing that these are often junk too. Solid rollers and regular adjustments are starting to look like a good idea now!

 

Luckily I have 2 x sets of 16 15-20 year old new in box lifters just in case my Premier or another engine needs some. 

[Muzza]

Had the cam lobe been repaired?
I had a genuine XU1 cam years ago that 1 lobe repaired with stellite? from memory.
It ripped the ass out of the standard lifter in a fresh engine.
The usual lifter tick all disappeared, except for one.
Drove it a few times and then finally pulled the lifter out to find the destruction.
Cam was removed and taken into Wade cams and the guy said straight away, you need to run hardened base lifters on repaired lobes
Hard lesson to learn on apprentice wages.

Brand new cam

[LXCHEV]

Just out of curiosity - do you know if the lifers were 'profiled' (radiused domes). I'd love to understand the root cause of this failure too.

 

Good chat here if you hadn't seen it recently: https://www.gmh-tora...raulic-lifters/

Edited by LXCHEV, Yesterday, 03:45 PM.

[Muzza]

Just out of curiosity - do you know if the lifers were 'profiled' (radiused domes). I'd love to understand the root cause of this failure too.

 

Good chat here if you hadn't seen it recently: https://www.gmh-tora...raulic-lifters/

Not sure, they were crow

I just measured the good one and it has .002” taper/convex after 60k’s

[claysummers]

I had a similar experience although mine got me about 10000km before rear lobe and lifter ate each other on my 179. The lifter would never rotate the pushrod. I tried swapping lifters around straight up which made no difference. I put it down to bad lobe taper on a Dynotec cam.

I got a custom ground cam from a good name, since retired. He also profiled the lifters and specified light springs for the run in. Apparently it is about work hardening the lifters then swapped to heavier springs. Otherwise I got valve bounce around 3000rpm. Since driven Adelaide Perth and many more miles no issue.


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[Bruiser]

Sorry Muzza, that’s a real bummer
Were they turning ok before you fired it up?
All you can do when installing is check all the lifters turn freely in their bores and are well lubed all over the sides, break in grease on the base only.
Maybe rp7 instead of thick engine oil would make it easier for them to turn
Can check the lifter domes before that with a dial gauge on something real flat like a lathe bed to see if they are 1.5 - 2 thou higher in the centre of the dome than the edge.
Put a mark next to the pushrod cup with a white paint pen and turn it over to see if they spin. The ones in my 202 turned without the pushrods installed with only their own weight being enough load. Not sure if the angle on the v8 lifters would work the same, but could install the pushrods and rockers too.
Trouble is, ideally you don’t want them grinding away at starter speed, you want the thing to fire instantly to run in rpm