333 replies to this topic

[Ruts]

Thanks for that mate.

[axistr]

Ok time for the Air Conditioner conversion while I wait for the boy to get the body done. I will need to do this post in a few sections in steps. Hope this helps Welby.

 

I am using a Denso A/C evaporator & blower fan from a Toyota Hilux LN106 but any Hilux or 4 Runner from 1990-2000 will do for the conversion. I cut out a new hole in the fire wall just above the original wiring harness hole for the original fire wall engine side blower fan motor. I will retain the original air duct for two reasons I prefer the look and to hide the coil and other engine EFI stuff.

 

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Before I stripped out the Torana air box I cut out a air box entry blanking plate for a sheet of ABS plastic using the original plastic gasket as a templet then checked & fitted. 

 

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I stripped out the box and removed the heater flap.

 

The heater flap needs to be shortened and the end turned up. I then made a plastic plate and drilled 3x 55mm holes in it and the Torana air box so the flexiable air hoses can poke through.

 

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I will post so more info and photos tomorrow as I have to watch the Blues win in the State of Origin now

 

  

[A9X]

my head hurts

[stevemc32]

Looking forward to the next step.

[axistr]

Which part Welby, come on keep up.

[SmacT]

Cool (literally). Was wondering how this was going. Can't wait to see the next steps.

[Mort]

Very interested so far, don't take too long with episode 2.

Don't worry about the loss, they are just messing with the toads this year

[Mort]

HAHAHAHAHAHA, good on ya Chris 

[axistr]

Step two, now its time to make an air duct box to deliver the air from the Toyota A/C evaporator to the Torana air box, Using the same plastic sheet I cut out and bent the adaptor box up. This plastic bends well and holds its shape with a bit of heat

After bending to the correct angles and shape I plastic welded both ends of the box.

 

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There is three holes in the new box and room dictates where the holes need to be drilled.

Now I have fitted the air box adaptor and connected the flexible hoses to the new adaptor box.

 

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I will take some more photos of the installation into the car when I can. it looks a bit of a mess sitting on the bench but when its all aligned and hoses secured at the exact lengths it looks very neat tidy and closer to factory air.

 

I could take heaps more photos and text of every step but this would take around ten pages, so if you don't understand any parts or want better clarification, just post your comment so I can add it. 

 

There is still a bit to do to complete the A/C conversion so I will add it as I am doing that part.

 

Lenny

 

When complete it should look like this

 

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[axistr]

As you would expect 3300LX, what a poor run, I expect you guys had something to do with the bus braking down LOL. Oh well better luck in three weeks maybe. They deserved to win they played much better on the night, and QLD had the insight to give the reffs  the brown paper bag beforehand. 

 

But the biggest win last night was that the bitch has now left the play ground, and now we have a recycled idiot running the side show. 

[Peter UC]

What are you using to control the Aircon?

[axistr]

Hi Peter UC, your one step ahead. as yet I haven't taken any photos of the controls. I use the standard Torana cable controls but I will piggy back an extra cable at the heater control leaver end to control the heater tap. I have a Dayco heater tap to go into the system so no coolant will flow through the heater core when in the off position. It is very important to get a heater tap that has zero flow when closed due to the heater box flap now being modified. The blower fan pushes around 60% more air than the original Torana fan, and it needs it because the air now needs to blow through the A/C evaporator and part of the heater core. When you slide the heater control to the heat position (flap up) all of the air is then forced through the heater core  and of course at the same time the heater tap open producing the heat. Doing it this way enables you to have the A/C on if you want to dry the air before it passes through the heater core so you can defrost the inside of the car and windscreens. It still has around 30% better air flow from the air vents than standard. I will also plumb the side vents into the air box and block off the holes in the fire wall that originally supply then. The Toyota blower fan unit has a fresh & recycle flap, the top of the blower box lines up close to the original hole where the air duct connects to the Torana fan. With the original inside plastic duct removed and A bit of foam it all matches up great. I use the choke cable to control the fresh/recycle flap. My hatch runs an electric choke so the cable was redundant and the SLR will be EFI so I will do the same. The only extra part you will notice is a small A/C push button switch that will bring in the compressor, I will also use a relay to bring in the slow fan speed when the button is pushed which will give my the four fan speeds. 

 

Hope that all makes sense.

 

G'day John, Good to hear from you, WOW a new Torana in the shed, looks like its in good nick mate. You will have to bring it round for a look. 

 

Yep booked into Toranafest again. Was hoping to take the SLR but pretty bloody sure it wont be ready in time so I have booked in the hatch again this year.

 

See you there.

 

Lenny.     

[axistr]

Step 3,

I drilled two holes in the file wall and inserted 2x flare nuts to mount the blower & evaporator, then reconfigured the wiring harness and fitted a new plug to suit the four speed fan.

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Then you can install the unit assemble and connect the three air delivery hoses into the torana air box.

The vent control can be left standard except I mounted the four speed fan switch and piggy backed an extra Torana heater cable to operate the new heater tap. The photo on the right showing the extra hole drilled to take the smaller inlet pipe. When the original engine side plastic fan cowl is fitted there is just enough clearance to fit the high pressure pipe connection,

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Its a bit hard to see in the photo below but the fresh air duct hole almost lines up with the Toyota fan blower box. I will make a plastic plate and fit some foam to ensure that there are no air leaks.


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I carn't do much more with the A/C until I start fitting out the car after paint.

[axistr]

To give me the extra space needed to clear the E.F.I rail. I know there is 101 ways to modify the air duct cowl but this is my version. I cut out a V in the heater box cowl and plastic welded it which gives me an extra 1 1/4 more clearance and that's all I needed. I will use a fraction of filler on the outside and paint it black. It plastic welded very easy and when finished you won't pick the difference unless you put an unmodified one next to it.

I should have taken a photo showing the cut but didn't have the camera handy.

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[Stinga]

nice job on the heater duct

[axistr]

G'day John,

 

Still waiting for the boy to finish the body work so I can send it out for paint. It only need around 8-10 hours to finish it off , He has had 14 months to do it and I can't do much till he finishes his bit. If he doesn't get back on to it in the next four weeks I will just have to send it to a panel shop and keep the ball rolling. I have done most of the body work so far but I am not confident in getting the last bit right, those fine little ripples, the part that really count when you look down the side after paint and they show up. It needs a professional not a mechanic, the son has the touch but unfortunately not me.