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Stevo's LC GTR Build

Stevo LC GTR Phantom Grey Tate GTR

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#51 _Blackxu1_

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Posted 18 September 2013 - 08:58 PM

My lc is black it looks awesome but it gives me hell to keep clean and swerl free I have never polished a car so much in my life. The build looks great mate can't wait to see the progress

#52 ljv8

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Posted 18 September 2013 - 11:31 PM

Hey Grant first I must say congrats on getteing the green machine on the road it looks amazing! Will have to re read your posts on the back side window assembly as I pulled my glass out too.

She was yet another Indy Orange GTR! My logical brain says keep at least the colour matching the plate but my heart says I can't live with an Indy Orange GTR. For me there are just too many in orange and its not a colour I have ever been really keen on. I like Lone Oranger but indy looks a bit too yellow for me. I only got the car as a roller no engine, gear box interior nothing, and the previous owner bloody mini tubbed it. At some stage it got LJ doors and the left hand guard has been replaced so not much left on it to say this is how it came out of the factory apart from the bare shell. I plan to keep it a period correct Torana color. I want to go with Phantom Grey MK1. My 3 year old wants light blue so either Monza or Mediterranean blue, but Indy Orange is still lurking In the back of my mind. Uggggghhhhhh what a choice.

The panel beater has sprayed out all four colors for me to look at and finally make up my mind. Picking them up tomorrow so this weekend is decision time! The panel beater thinks my son is right and go the Monza blue. The car will eventually go to him and he gets pissed when I tell him its going to be grey or orange!

Hey Nathan I have a black Calais sports wagon, its only a year old and your right hard to keep off those swirls and light scratch marks. It has kind of put me off leaving it black. Too much work to keep two black cars clean :(

Update #16

I realized when testing the fan that I didn't put on the fan belt pulley. Will have to dig through a garage full of Torana bits to find it and see how much of a difference it makes.

As per my very first post I ground off the 3.3 engine badge from the side of my block. Took a silicone mould of the 161 badge from the side of my spare 161 block tonight. Will have to leave it for a day or two to set then will melt down some lead for it and see how it turns out. May look crap or may come out ok, either way could not bare to see 3.3 on the side of the engine sitting in my LC.

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Picked up a silicone mould kit and built up a barrier with modeling clay. Made up a batch of about 220 grams which was more than enough.

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Will see if it actually works tomorrow night.

#53 Stinga

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 05:14 PM

keen to see how the 161 mould comes out!



#54 nstood

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 06:32 AM

I'd love to do this as well but don't have a donor to build the mould from. Will be interested to see how it turns out.

#55 ljv8

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 11:59 PM

Update #17

Thanks for the interest gents. Left it for 48 hours and the mould came out perfectly and is very firm, I expected it to be soft like silicone.

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My original thought was to cast each number and screw head and glue them on separately but when I started pouring the lead I realized it would probably be easier and better to cast it as one piece as the original badge does look like a small plate has been screwed on.

Didn't melt enough lead but for a first attempt proved that it's going to work. Will re melt it and add more sinkers to the pot to produce a casting the size of the mould. Then will grind it down to size and get the backing nice and thin. Might come out pretty good.

I wasn't sure how durable the mould would be so covered it in water soon after pouring the lead but it caused it to bubble and draw out some low spots. Will let it cool naturally next time.

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The mould kit only has a shelf life of 12 months and have enough left to make another cast. I also have a 186 block so will cast that one too just to have it. Will see how mine ends up Neil if your after 161 or 186 am happy to do one for you just for the cost of materials and postage.

#56 nstood

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 07:16 AM

I'd be interested in that - thanks.

#57 Stinga

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 10:22 AM

not bad for a first attempt! what is the casting kit thingy called??



#58 orangeLJ

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 10:55 AM

What's the melting temp of lead?

Just wondering how it will go with prolonged heat cycles on the side of the block? (And whatever resin/method you'll use to attach it permanently?)

Might be worth making yourself a ceramic mould or a really good buck that you can use to make more moulds easily.

#59 _Agent 34_

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 07:52 PM

I can see a duel casting date argument coming up LOL !!!!!



#60 ljv8

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 08:37 AM

Hey guy's,

 

The kit I used is as below its an RTV-2 silicone that's designed for low melt alloys.  After one casting the mould is still perfect so I'm sure it will be fine to make quite a few of them without issue.

 

http://www.barnes.co...0gm-p-1942.html

 

The melting point of lead is 327 degreess C.  I started off with a portable gas bottle and coleman burner with a small sauspan that is now the designated lead pot.  I threw in a handful of ball sinkers the size of malteazers and it sat on the burner for over half an hour without even the slightest sign of melting.  Tipped them out and threw in a handful of very small plit shot sinkers, again sat on the burner for a good 15 minutes with no melting.  Switched to one of those $20 camp stoves with the gas cartridges, and they seem to put out a lot more heat.  They were melted amd ready to pour in about 15 minutes. 

 

I was thinking about the durability of it, but will just give it a go and see how it hangs on.  There are plenty of quality high temp glues so I don't think it will be an issue. 

 

 



#61 _judgelj_

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 07:03 PM

I spose the question is, how well will the glue adhere to the surface of the block? Especially after years of oil showers and what not... 



#62 gad05

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 09:58 PM

Definitely worth a go Stevo,there are glues for every application these days.Just takes some research .

#63 ljv8

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 05:40 AM

Yeah I agree Graham I committed myself when I first hit the block with the grinder ;)

Update #18

Decision made by my 3.5 year old. Monza blue it is.

Pic below shows what I narrowed down my selection to.

From top left Monza blue, Phantom Grey MK1, Indy orange and Mediterranean blue. I originally wanted Phantom and I still like it but its hard to go past Monza. It's such a beautiful color looks dark in the shade as per the first pic then in full light looks light as per the second pic. It will be done in Glasurit.

Besides when I mention to my son his Torana is going to be painted any other color he cracks it :). The guys in the panel shop and the missus all voted for Monza so it's done paint being ordered.

If it was a matching numbers car with the original drive train and if it wasn't tubbed there would be no question it would be the original color Indy Orange. Since it's not I'm going to do what I like. Everyone is going to have their opinion and probably think I'm nuts for changing the color but I don't care. I know it may drop the resale value but will never sell it, this one will be a keeper.

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Starting to get closer to completion. The deadener has been applied to the undercarriage.

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#64 _Blackxu1_

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 08:28 AM

I'm for the Indy

#65 _Blackxu1_

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 08:36 AM

Or the med blue

Or the monza lol hard decision what ever colour it will look great

#66 _judgelj_

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 06:35 PM

They're probably 3 of my favorite colours. I spose having the little one decide is the best way. Otherwise indecisiveness would not get you anywhere. Good on him!!



#67 gad05

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 10:02 PM

It's your car Stevo, if you're happy with the colour that's all that matters.

#68 Potta

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 10:52 PM

:iagree:



#69 ljv8

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 11:24 PM

Thanks for the support guys.

Update #19

Had another crack at the casting of the engine badge and it came out much better.

This time loaded up a heap of sinkers in the pot. I found that you need to have a pretty fresh butane canister in the burner or it takes forever to generate enough heat. Got the lead nice and runny scraped off the impurities with a spoon back on the fire for a few more minutes then ready to pour. Didn't cool it down with water this time and it literally cooked the clay that was holding the lead in. Held long enough for the lead to set but made a decent mess. Did it in the back yard so was well ventilated and wore a fine particle dual filter face mask just to be sure. Once it starts melting gets pretty stinky.

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Didn't have time to start filing it down to size and contour of the block. Will give it a go soon.

#70 nstood

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Posted 01 October 2013 - 08:34 AM

nice

#71 ljv8

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 11:47 AM

Update #20

Haven't had much time to do anything but luckily the panel beater has been busy. Nearly ready to bring home :) Color has been applied boot and engine bay painted. Just needs to do blackouts, side stripes, and a few touch ups eg bonnet lacing strip black and front of rad support panel in satin. Also need to decide on the gloss level for the blackouts. Won't go full gloss maybe 60% gloss. I think the engine bay satin is too flat for the blackouts.

Must say I'm wrapped with the finish and color. Never been a big fan of blue but looks nice. Having it home will drive me to get things done.

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#72 gad05

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 01:37 PM

Very nice Steve,lots of motivation there.
Cheers Graham.

#73 _toranatime_

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 05:47 PM

Oh yeah!! that looks absolutely tops! Bet you can't wait to start putting it together. What is the name of that colour mate?

 

cheers  



#74 Ice

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 06:08 PM

Shiny monza blue

#75 _Macka_

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 07:10 PM

Blue is my favourite color. That will look tops.





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