104 replies to this topic

[LJGTR6]

Yes Steve.... that's the color I intend for the project

 

Good to see another Persian sand project out there. I will enjoy watching the build.

 

steve

[Mid-life Crisis]

Well it has been 11years since I bought the hatch and not much has happened. Living in Canberra now and have decided that I am going to get a professional to finish it all.

 

In January I am getting ADELS in Queanbeyan (Thanks to Jen at the Canberra Torana Club for the Reccomendation). Met with Gunter and hios son last week and have got it booked in.  

 

Very excited.............  its time.... Not sure I have all the parts for the rebuild but we will see.

 

Have also talked with Russell Stenhouse about the Engine.... very helpful

 

Dogs are still with us.... just a bit slower and greyer...............like me I guess

 

 

 

 

Attached Files

•  20201101_125620.jpg   148.88K   9 downloads

[RallyRed]

Good news on the progress plan...

I am not from Canberra mate, but just offering that if you need brake bits for the build, I came across Canberra Brake and Clutch at the weekend.

We were racing at Wakefield Park and had some brake issues, googled brake places, and randomly came across them.

David there is a top guy, new all about Torana brakes, offered suggestions, dug out some bits and pieces from the "pile" and sold us the correct new bits as well.

Got us back up and running for the weekend.

Real old school knowledge and service.

Just sayin.

 

p.s. the other places I rang went like this..."yeah mate, what's the rego number?, ...Torana eh? ....who makes them,? ...sedan or waggon? etc etc

 

Pic credit - Mackenzie Green

Attached Files

•  BR W.P. 1 Nov 2020.jpeg   124.78K   6 downloads

Edited by RallyRed, 02 November 2020 - 06:23 AM.

[Mid-life Crisis]

Thanks Col, will certainly look at them when I get that far.....

[Mid-life Crisis]

I am a bit cofused. The Instrument Cluster I have in the photo below was given to me (not fitted) when I bought the car. Now that I am getting motivayed I was going to send if away for a refurb. Than I looked at a numebr of Photos of LX Clusters and realisted vtheten are a number of Configurations...... Does it matter,???

 

My Car is a 76 LX Hatch and I am not restoring it to an absolute original, but also don't want ot to look odd

 

 

Attached Files

•  20201104_161948.jpg   128.5K   10 downloads

[Ice]

No tacho thats a standard dash cluster

[Mid-life Crisis]

No tacho thats a standard dash cluster

 

When you say standard...... Standard for an LX Hatch ????

[Rockoz]

Base model dash.

Or maybe from an SL because of the clock.

It has a lower km/h speedo than the sports dash.

Sports dash has tacho, 200 speedo and quad gauges in the right side hole.

[Heath]

It's an SL dash as Rob said. Base model trim package for a hatch was an 'SL' (no 'S' hatches), so it would be right for a non-SS that hadn't been optioned up to have sports instrumentation.

 

Most people nowadays putting the money into a Torana restoration would opt for some kind of full instrumentation. Using Speedhut gauges like the solution in my thread, or an original sports cluster, Greg's upcoming aftermarket sports cluster, etc.

[Mid-life Crisis]

Well I m starting on the front end rebuild and really don't know where to start or what the tips and tricks are for dissasemby or assembly. Will I need any special tooling? Will I kill myself when it springs apart?  

 

I have already removed the Steering arms to send to Len at Axis to attach to a new Power Steering Rack.

 

Would like reccomendations on the Full front end kit to buy, I have seen quite a few around.

 

Also reccomendations on New Shocks.... want to retain the same ride height

 

Not an expert Mechanic but Handy. Sometimes confused by the specific part names. Really want to contribute something to the project where I can

Attached Files

•  PXL_20210220_034355261._exported_1613803217099.jpg   171.77K   7 downloads

Edited by Mid-life Crisis, 20 February 2021 - 04:50 PM.

[mick_in_oz]

Personally, I'd have removed the springs while all of that was in the car, the weight of the car etc lets you undo the lower control arm in a controlled fashion and remove the spring safely.

 

Otherwise you might have to get creative to stop those springs escaping uncontrollably.

 

AND, you want to hope those aren't RTS coils, as that will just add to the fun!

Edited by mick_in_oz, 20 February 2021 - 05:34 PM.

[Mid-life Crisis]

Personally, I'd have removed the springs while all of that was in the car, the weight of the car etc lets you undo the lower control arm in a controlled fashion and remove the spring safely.

 

Otherwise you might have to get creative to stop those springs escaping uncontrollably.

 

AND, you want to hope those aren't RTS coils, as that will just add to the fun!

 

Thanks mick, its been out of the car for about 8 years so any thoughts on how to do it??? I kinda suspected that the springs would be under compression

Edited by Mid-life Crisis, 20 February 2021 - 05:54 PM.

[Mid-life Crisis]

Ive had a Change of plans over the past 11 years and decided to do an LS2 conversion with a Tremec T5 5 speed. Motor has been purchased.....  Going to 290mm Hopper Stoppers under the front and Disc Rear end. Old School Hotwires....15 * 8's on the back and 15 * 7's on the front. Still Persian Sand "NOT Flared".... More reliable Drive and just a "little" bit more fun...

[CI 0308]

Ive had a Change of plans over the past 11 years and decided to do an LS2 conversion with a Tremec T5 5 speed. Motor has been purchased.....  Going to 290mm Hopper Stoppers under the front and Disc Rear end. Old School Hotwires....15 * 8's on the back and 15 * 7's on the front. Still Persian Sand "NOT Flared".... More reliable Drive and just a "little" bit more fun...

 

Hopefully youve read Harvey's (Ricky Bobby) thread then, best thread on here for LS into a Torana. 

 

http://www.gmh-toran...the-sl-project/

[Mid-life Crisis]

Thanks Brett, will sit down and have a good read

 

Today I managed to partially dismantle the Drivers side of the Front end. Needed a bit of encouragement... words and large hammers. 

 

Used a Threaded rod to control, the release of the spring.... worked like a treat

 

Attached Files

•  PXL_20210221_055839056.jpg   170.19K   4 downloads
•  PXL_20210221_065758847.jpg   174.33K   3 downloads

[Statler]

If you are no longer going down the 'stock' path it's not too late to change the colour. Just sayin'

[Mid-life Crisis]

sorry Col.... no chance of a Change in Color.... permanent member of the Persian Sand Mafia

Edited by Mid-life Crisis, 21 February 2021 - 06:51 PM.

[axistr]

G'day David, I have just finished completing a brake kit for a customer and finalizing a few things so I can supply brake and power steering kits.

I have made 287mm and 298mm brake kits. Although the 298mm kit will fit some 15" and larger wheels, I have made the 287mm kit to ensure owners with 15" wheels will not have any clearance issues. The 287mm kit can be fitted with only 360mm rim I.D 14.2" I can supply kits with any PCD you want, Torana 108, HQ 120.65 and Commodore 120.00 PCD. Also on request Slotted and or drilled will be an option if desired.

 

 DSC_00561020.JPG   132.66K   7 downloads  DSC_00421018.JPG   77.46K   6 downloads  DSC_00521022.JPG   61.59K   6 downloads  DSC_00511021.JPG   73.42K   6 downloads  DSC_00571019.JPG   95.95K   6 downloads

 

 

 

   

[Ice]

Nice work Len damm wish i knew you were doing these kits before i bought my brakes already oh well 

[Mid-life Crisis]

G'day David, I have just finished completing a brake kit for a customer and finalizing a few things so I can supply brake and power steering kits.

I have made 287mm and 298mm brake kits. Although the 298mm kit will fit some 15" and larger wheels, I have made the 287mm kit to ensure owners with 15" wheels will not have any clearance issues. The 287mm kit can be fitted with only 360mm rim I.D 14.2" I can supply kits with any PCD you want, Torana 108, HQ 120.65 and Commodore 120.00 PCD. Also on request Slotted and or drilled will be an option if desired.

 

DSC_00561020.JPGDSC_00421018.JPGDSC_00521022.JPGDSC_00511021.JPGDSC_00571019.JPG

 

Hey Len, Is this the Len from Axis. If have just sent off the Steering Arms for the Variable Ratio Power Steering Kit. Not sure if you can place me. I sent you an email on Saturday.

 

Anyway, on the chance that you are the same Len. Can you provide the Specs on the 287mm brake set. Are they all ADR com;oiant Parts. I would like to s4nd it to my Engineer to ensure that he will pass them with an LS2 attached. If you can snd me a price as well that would be appreciated. email address is [email protected]

[Mid-life Crisis]

I have been making some progress this afternoon and run into a challenge with the lower ball joint. Not sure if it is just rusted in (just need bigger hammer) or there is a circlip or something that I have missed. 

 

Has anyone got a tip on next steps. Photos attached

 

In addition, I cannot work out how to get the Upper Control Arm Bolt out... once again is there a trick

Attached Files

•  Front end Ball Joints and Control Arms (6).jpg   170.26K   6 downloads
•  Front end Ball Joints and Control Arms (7).jpg   213.1K   5 downloads
•  Front end Ball Joints and Control Arms (2).jpg   111.09K   7 downloads

[Rockoz]

Ball joints are easier to do with a bit of pressure on them.

You will need to press them out now.

As for the uppers.

You can get the bushes out with a FBH.

You drive them out with the bolt itself.

Make sure you put the nut back on the end you are hitting.

I have done them and they require you to actual hit them, not pretend.

Once one bush is out, you turn it over and start again.

We didnt have a press at the time.

It would be simpler with a press, but they will be tight.

Perhaps give them a good soak in penetrene before starting.

I did read somewhere that ATF and methanol was a good thing to use for helping get things apart.

Not sure about the methanol, someone will correct me if wrong.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

Edited by Rockoz, 22 February 2021 - 07:28 PM.

[Mid-life Crisis]

 Turns out I needed a bigger hammer.... all out now...... 

 

 

I have been turning my mind to the Rear end Dif set up and it is doin my head in trying to balance Wheel size, wheel offset, brake size,dif width in an unflared rear end.

 

I am guessing that what I want has been done before so I am hoping that someone can give me the answer.....

 

So here goes..... 15 * 8 inch hotwires I am pretty sure can accomodate 287 Disc rear rotors and calipers.... so with that wheel and RIM...

 

What width Diff and wheel offset do I need to get it under an UNFLARED rear end. Street Legally!!!!

 

Sorry forgot to mention the only change in Ride height will be the increase due to the 15inch Rims

 

There a free COVID Jab for the correct answer.....   

[Mid-life Crisis]

Before I apply Brute force to something that maybe I shouldn't 

 

The Lower Control arm Bushing have an outer Steel Casing. Noit sure if it is part of the Control arm and therefore should stay, or part of the Bushing and should be removed to make way for the new Bushing.......... Advice

Attached Files

•  PXL_20210228_042224597.jpg   215.9K   5 downloads