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LC-LJ Drivers Be Aware

LJ Steering

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#1 _Donno_

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 10:17 AM

Guys - Big problem if you have a red nolethane joiner on your steering column replace it with rubber.

 

I only found this yesterday on my mates LJ - the red nolethane disintegrated in my hand and my mate
had just driven his car back from the servo.

 

Guys it costs $152 to replace this component with a rubber one.

 

Please do it as your steering wheel wont turn your wheels if you don't and you will die.

 

Donno

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Edited by Donno, 21 December 2016 - 10:20 AM.


#2 LJ RB30

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 10:33 AM

And don't forget to remove the metal band after installation!

#3 Bazza

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 10:43 AM

Hi Donno

 

Yes a well known problem with the LCs and LJs Norlathane joints. BTW you can still get the original rubber ones for about $17 + postage from eBay in the UK. The are sold over there for Vauxhalls and Bedfords.

 

Cheers

 

Bazza

 

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#4 StephenSLR

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 11:41 AM

Guys - Big problem if you have a red nolethane joiner on your steering column replace it with rubber.

 

This isn't just for LC-LJ. I had red nolathane on my rear shocks and front anti-sway bar in my LX.  After the car was sitting in the garage for a number of years we got it up on a hoist as I noticed cracks in the bushes and just as you described the stuff crumbled into little pieces all over the place as soon as we loosened the components.

 

s



#5 8BALL

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 12:27 PM

The dreaded red powder....

Seen many cars being 'rebuilt/restored' and nolathane used. Most required rebuilds before a wheel even turned on the road.
It seems they dont like sitting around.

But ive also seen a few with nolathane fitted for years with no issues on daily drivers.. perhaps formula changed?

Ive always preferred super pro bushes over nolapain

#6 LJ RB30

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 12:53 PM

Hey 8Ball

 

I think the formula changed when they started making them in China!

 

I put nolathane bushes purchased some 15+ years ago  throughout the red Torry.

 

They seem to be still intact, however i melted the ones on top off the front chassis rail due to the turbo.

 

I replaced these with more nolatane 5-6 years ago.

 

Within a couple of years they started to cruumble!

 

I now replace any failing noalthane with superpro!


Edited by LJ RB30, 21 December 2016 - 12:57 PM.


#7 S pack

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 01:49 PM

And don't forget to remove the metal band after installation!

+1. The metal band is only there to aid installation.

 

IMO, urethane is too effing stiff and should never be used for the flexible coupling in the LC/LJ steering shaft if a rubber coupling is available.



#8 Uncle Chop Chop

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 01:51 PM

I think the formula changed when they started making them in China!

 

The problem is more likely because they are made in China.



#9 8BALL

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 01:58 PM

Yeah i too have some 20yo bushes still going well.
Yet some newer ones in cars ive bought have perished in several years.

My super pro bushes are all going well still (touch wood)
And they come in different stiffness unlike nolapain.

Rubber definitely has a place in certain areas. As said eurothane can be to stiff for certain jobs.

#10 S pack

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 02:45 PM

Guys - Big problem if you have a red nolethane joiner on your steering column replace it with rubber.

 

I only found this yesterday on my mates LJ - the red nolethane disintegrated in my hand and my mate
had just driven his car back from the servo.

 

Guys it costs $152 to replace this component with a rubber one.

 

Please do it as your steering wheel wont turn your wheels if you don't and you will die.

 

Donno

The rubber couplings will fail eventually but that red nolathane is rubbish.

http://www.gmh-toran...iveway-luckily/



#11 _73LJWhiteSL_

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 08:10 PM

I had one of the original Rubber ones fail on the LJ SL while in the process of reversing a trailer into my parents back yard. Much prefer it to fail then than the next day at the Winton Fun Day! Had to 'borrow' one from a mates car to get to the Winton Fun day. I reckon the LH/X/UC uni joint is the way to go. Steve



#12 EunUCh

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 08:43 PM

The LH/X ones have riveted "drive pins" that make a positive drive in heavy turns that also act as a fail safe should the rubber fail , so yes go the later model joint for at least steerability and a small safety feature , the rag is only there for road noise dampening.

How the frok that complied to ADR is a joke ?

Although it looks like the bolts might make some connection with other bits should the something fail , scary stuff at at 60mph ?.

 



#13 _DS80_

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Posted 29 December 2016 - 12:35 PM

A good mate of mine is a rep for Repco...i asked him about this problem and he said they changed the formula.



#14 _boynuz_

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 03:31 AM

And don't forget to remove the metal band after installation!

Why must the metal bend be removed ?

 

Cheers



#15 S pack

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 07:15 AM

Why must the metal bend be removed ?

 

Cheers

Because it is purely an installation aid.

The GMH LC Torana Workshop Manual instructs repairers to remove the metal band after installation.
 



#16 Bazza

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 08:21 AM

Hi

 

Just so there is no misunderstanding.

 

Cheers

 

Bazza

 

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#17 Lc69

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 11:16 AM

Good info guys, thanks

#18 Zook

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 04:19 PM

HB owners should be careful too as they use the same coupling which could be replaced by the urethane one. Page 9-3 of the Holden 'HB' Torana 1969 Models manual details the replacement procedure, including the band and the requirement to remove it, in case you have an HB.




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