389 replies to this topic

[yel327]

I just meant to repair it properly, as in ask how to do it. Being it is an important structural point.

[warrenm]

Drill the ends of the cracks & weld them.

[hawk]

I plan to do it properly, seeing the rust in the crack and how thin the metal is in spots id rather put a patch in the spot instead of just welding it.

What thickness sheet metal do I buy for the patch?

[claysummers]

If you are going to buy fresh sheet then for the lighter panels I've used 0.9 mm zinc anneal which approximates the old 20#. Otherwise can use unwanted panels from cars of the era. Structural pressings are the next size up generally 18# or 1.2mm.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

[Toranamat69]

I always use 1.2 Zinc anneal for any panel repairs on 1mm section.

Has massively improved the quality of my repairs.

[Rockoz]

Yep same crack I had in my VB many moons ago.

Mate panel beater said it was very common.

He double skinned the area to get strength.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[hawk]

Awesome thanks I'll get some when I'm ready to start welding (need to buy a welder).

Got my front end back from the blasters along with a few other bits and started painting it all.

Painting the front suspension in KBS gloss black. Just brushing it on and being outdoors, I'm getting a few bugs in it. Might have to buy the KBS kit that sprays inside cavities to get inside the K frame.
Can I leave the timing cover like this? or does it need to be painted?


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[toryman76]

Looks awesome! What did you coat the inside of the rocker covers with?

I reckon the timing cover would look nicer with a coat of paint. Maybe some KBS in silver? The motor coater stuff is good for heat and bonds really well and I think it comes in silver or grey whichever you prefer. The inside would probably be ok to leave it but the rough surface might promote further errosion.

[hawk]

They are how I picked them up from the blasters, so I have no idea.

I'll paint the timing cover with some engine enamel then. I plan to use proper coolant in it so that should help minimise further erosion.

[hawk]

Well no turning back now, started cutting up the floor and knocking the rail straight.

Before

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floor cut for access

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plate removed

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the cracks will need a lot more trimming to remove the damaged metal.

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Knocking it straight.

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Obviously it still needs a lot of work but is coming along now.

Painting also continued. All done with rattle cans as thats all I have on hand. Mixture of different paints depending on the part. Probably got some of it wrong.

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[hawk]

Front end is done and ready for bushes.

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[toryman76]

Very nice! You're making decent headway

[hawk]

The upper and lower control arm bushes are pressed in and balljoints fitted.

the outrigger bushes for the Kframe as shown below, does the flange go on the rail side or the inside of the KFrame?

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[toryman76]

That's a long debated argument.... The manual says one thing but most cars were fitted the other way. I put mine back in the way they came out pretty certain it was flange against the rail.

[hawk]

I bought two lots, thought the hamburger kit came with rubber K frame bushes but they were actually whiteline ones with the two piece lowers so used them instead.

Its starting to come together now but will have to come back out for the rail repairs.

Was going to leave the outrigger area alone other than the crack but unsure now I see it all lined up. should I leave it as is or try to straighten it a bit?

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[hawk]

well its a roller again.

Hopefully picking up a welder soon, a unimig 120 viper. Will that be good enough for what I'm doing?

Will be ready to rebuild the rack soon. got all the parts except for the inner bushes. nowhere seems to have a clue what they are. Does anyone have a part number or know who supplies them?



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[toryman76]

Looks like your front end lines up great. I don't see the issue? I wrestled mine for a day to get it in and even then I'm still not happy how one of the top bushes sits. Not sure about steering rack. I know a few years ago I was told there were certain parts you couldn't get for them. I am sure this has changed now though as so many parts are available now compared to when I built mine. Maybe have a chat to one of the old skool steering companies they might know?

New front end looks great BTW! Nice fresh everything. Doing this first up will make the car feel much nicer on the road.

[Rockoz]

I would have gone the next sized up MIG.

Well I actually did.

I had a 2?? mig, and I just bought a 285 as well.

I decided to buy another one because it was becoming a bugger changing between mild steel and aluminium.

The other day I changed back and forth at least 4 times. 

Now I dont have to bother.

It cost me a touch over 800.

It gives me MIG TIG and stick capabilities in the one machine.

I now have a MIG/Stick, an AC/DC TIG/Stick a MIG/DC only TIG/Stick and a Plasma Cutter.

All of them UNIMIG.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

 

 

Chee

[hawk]

Cheers guys, as for the Mig. Being on a budget meant its my only option. I'll upgrade at a later stage. Been playing around with the gassless stuff today and as usual its a shocker haha. Need to wait for more funds to buy gas and wire.

Been a slow week on the car as I've had a lot on. hopefully do a bit more tomorrow.

Anyway, reassembled the bonnet catch and fitted to get the relocated washer and overflow bottles in the right spot. Turn the Horn around for clearance and it frees the bay up a lot. Never noticed any air flow issues with this mod on my old UC

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[UCSLE]

have you tried 0.6 gasless wire ?  https://www.ebay.com...CABEgJ9GvD_BwE  gas is so much better but it maybe worth a look at since your on a budget .

Edited by UCSLE, 30 January 2021 - 08:23 PM.

[hawk]

I'll be buying gas and wire as I want the welds on the rails to be solid.

been scrubbing and wire wheeling the motor. Really temped to do a full rebuild on it.

Pulled the sump off for a look. Are these standard pistons?

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[Rockoz]

0.6mm wire for panels.

I would likely go up to 0.8 or 0.9 for the rails as they are heavier gauge steel.

I get lots better welds with 0.8 on thicker steel than the welds I get using 0.6 on thinner stuff.

For me I think it might be because Im not moving fast enough.

 

If you are tight for funds, the more expensive rental of bottles might work for you.

Get a BOC account. They were doing deals on one free refill at one stage.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[toryman76]

Any nasty stuff in the bottom of the sump? I doubt they are std factory pistons with those markings in the casting. Check the top of the piston to id if it's std bore or oversize. I would err on the side of if it ain't broke don't fix it. 0.6mm wire plus gas and you should be on the money. Just play around with your settings and technique for the rails so you get a process nailed before doing the job. Remember to practise in the position you will be welding in ie overhead, etc as this makes a big difference to settings and technique.

[hawk]

Bought some gas today and 0.6 and 0.9 wire. Had a few test goes then had a crack at the rails.

Not great but filled in a lot of where I needed too. the rest will be done when the plate is welded back in. Hopefully I'll buy some weld through primer tomorrow after work.

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[hawk]

Repair is finished on the rail. Next step is to weld in the floor section.

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Setting up

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