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#848913 outback adventure western nsw

Posted by Guest on 03 August 2014 - 08:47 PM

Today Neil and i went on an adventure that we have been planing for some time,on the menu,one GTR XU1 with a colourful history in the early to mid 70,s ,and has been parked since 1982.


Its a second owner car and a true barn find,anyways i,ve got a lot of cropping, and pictures to sort out,so its identity is not let out.


Car is filthy,but no rust could be seen anywhere.


Now if your interested in seeing more of the car and its story,click the like button,and ill see if there is any interest .Plus i,ve got no likes,lol.


first shot is of the mountains the XU1 sleeps beside.





#993626 Clocked at 245 kph on saturday arvo in the A9X,s

Posted by WhiteA9XS on 18 April 2017 - 11:02 PM

 Just having a play near a place called Bathurst with a mate in the torana,s on the weekend , i need some more speed as he is quicker than me .


#1062097 Torana pedal car

Posted by Davis on 14 December 2020 - 10:58 AM

Finished product. Forgot to take some pics along the way, but used some alloy steel bar which I bent up and polished for the bumpers, trailer reflectors for the taillights, GTR hat badges for the side badges. The shell already had a hole in the bonnet so figured a catch can filter sticking out would be appropriate. 

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#988226 Valiant Regal ruined during a resto, stolen from facebook.

Posted by Guest on 10 February 2017 - 09:44 PM

Hi all :-)  Thought I'd better stop by and give everyone an update and a bit of a laugh !  Lastest Shenanigans ....


I got a call back in Septemeber from the property owner of Lowelifes Pratt court workshop .. He owed over $40 000 in rent and was served several eviction notices over a period of a few months. The Female property owner told me that he had already moved to a new workshop in Belmont but was refusing to remove all of the cars and gear from pratt workshop until "he was ready" despite being served eviction notices. He then threatened to trash her place if she attempted to lock him out. He does like to threaten chicks ...

anyhoo... He basically abandoned clients cars etc and bolted to a new premises. He only took with him the vehicles that he was still squeezing $$ out of owners who were yet to realise what he was.


She agreed to put my brother in the workshop as the new tenant for the purpose of securing and cleaning up the premises and reuniting all the cars and parts with other clients chasing Lowelife...


Lowelife was not real happy to lose control of the situation !

Over a period of several weeks, we managed to track down all the other car owners and reunite them with their vehicles without them having to fight baseless workers liens and his ar$ehole lawyers who liked to threaten clients not savvy in legals.

We had access to office paperwork and all clients details left behind so our little group expanded pretty quick. Every single ripped off person helped in the end of what we called "the takeover" haha was awesome ! Top bunch of people, none of them deserved to be ripped off like I was and their vehicles destroyed also.


Lowelife tried to pursue charges of theft and alleged he had $3-$400,000 in gear knocked off from the workshop ... lies ... apparently he also had a Monaro there and Cadillac parts of his but none of us recall seeing those items :-)

His police complaint actually initiated an investigation into himself for fraud haha Fraud squad/major crime now have around 12 clients cases they are looking into to have him charged.


In the meantime, I managed to also get hold of the property owner for the Belmont workshop who (as luck would have it!) - he was also owed rent and couldn't find Lowelife.

I was told by a client who still had a car at Belmont with lowelife that he had received an email telling him to remove his car as he was declaring bankrupt by the following Friday.

It was literally about an hour before he was going to bolt from Belmont that I got hold of that workshop owner and he went straight down to the workshop. Lowelifes offsider was caught in the act loading up stuff that didn't belong to them befotre they were going to bolt.


The property owner escorted him out, changed the locks and that's how we took over his Belmont rort haha.


By this time, everyones cars were returned to them with exception of one.

I gave that owner Lowelifes home address and sure enough ... his car was in Lowelifes backyard !


So... now he has no tools, no cars, no workshops, no fkn nothing hahah


Now we have around 15 consumer protection complaints and around 15 cases in the courts and that's not to mention the possibility of multiple charges of fraud and theft etc currently sitting with major crime.

Because we had access to his paperwork from both workshops, we worked out his rorts are totalling over $2 million dollars and climbing.


and it aint over yet ... still a few more tricks up my sleeve.

Lesson learned for the Lowelife = Never EVER fk with a chicks VG coupe !!!

#1069929 Heath's Hatch

Posted by Heath on 14 May 2021 - 11:18 AM

Cheers! Hahaha she's a good sport. She's pretty used to me taking the piss out of her... gotta keep these (mostly) retired boomers from slacking off too much.


Bit of whip cracking resulted in a pretty sweet outcome. :)

Steering wheel stitching added, and mum sewing up the wheel tub trims.



The only way we found to practically make this material sit half decently over the wheel tub shape is to have a bit of a compressable backing to soften the inaccuracies between the shapes:


Bit of spray adhesive on the back after chamfering all of the edges of the foam to let them 'blend' more gently as the thickness changes:


Had to build it up a bit more along the seam to keep the vinyl sitting tight.


The vinyl is basically clamped in and glued down around the edges... it's floating/stretched across most of its shape which gives it a nice soft feel.



Spent hours pulling the headlining tight with every clamp I own, trimming little bits of edge back, marking holes to be punched, etc.


In the end it looked like this:




Then clamped it up and glued it in, section by section:




Then followed with the B-Pillar trims (with rear window sill sections, these were bought from Dash Original and them mum sewed a returned edge at the top of them where they overlap the headliner), C-Pillar trims, etc. 





So thrilled with this.


Posted by sibhs on 23 January 2021 - 11:09 PM

So glad mine is a lowly S

Yes, when I sell any of my GTR's I'll say 

"Buy with confidence" There're no numbers or tags to check.

That sort of stress free purchase has got to be worth an extra $20,000


If ever I was buying a "genuine" car I'd love to have these respected forum members check the pictures and numbers first. You guys are an invaluable resource to the Torana community and I thank-you for that.



#1061346 The Sally Report

Posted by sibhs on 01 December 2020 - 09:26 PM

Decided to clean up the distributer I got with my re-conditioned engine. On the receipt it said this was reconditioned but that only means new points and condenser to these guys.

Pull the guts out and found it very mucky.

Cleaned and lubed it up and put it all together.

















ps. Thanks for the 'Likes" guys. Gives me motivation to post more updates.




#1051497 Advice welcome - LJ advertised as a GTR for sale, unsure if genuine

Posted by Nate355 on 04 June 2020 - 10:01 AM

I'd just like to thank everyone that contributed to this post, helping me complete my research and find out some more information on this particular Sydney "GTR".

A massive thanks go out to one person in particular (i won't name names in case it comes back) for helping out a stranger (me) and going out of their way to delve into old archives, historical reports, VIN numbers, Sales sheets and scanning every photo i had of the car with a fine tooth comb, to assist in making my decision and ultimately uncovering what this "GTR" really is.

In the end, the buyer was really putting the hard word on, to sell this and it has now been found out why... Let's just say I have dodged a massive bullet (more like a f#$%in grenade) with this one and the car IS NOT what it appears.

It just shows, it pays to do your homework and not rush in to buying anything that seems too good to be true!

When you have people that are willing to help you out, like on this forum (with so much shared knowledge), you really have no excuse :)

Thanks again!

#1018457 I now remember why I ever sell anything

Posted by Balfizar on 16 May 2018 - 07:02 PM

Now now, are you trying to say an interest in cars is not always related to intelligence quota' or

Toranas attract  those purchasers who are cognitively challenged?  


My experience and perception from years of observations and participation in the ownership of 30+ year old cars is that you often need your head read,

when it comes to the price you pay for parts and the hours you spend in the garage - not to mention frustration levels attained.


Just think of the head start these f#$& wits have when it comes to ownership of 30+ year old cars.

If you start off as a dipstick you already have attained the pinnacle of where you will end up.


I often refer to the following when it comes to anything related to motoring enthusiasm:- 


MURPHY'S AUTOMOTIVE LAWS (restorers edition)


1. If it can fall there will generally be an eye underneath to catch it.

2. The amount of stuff leftover after a re-install is directly proportional to the amount of trouble you are in.

3. The spanner you have just spent 10 minutes getting into position to undo a bolt is the wrong size.

4. Stainless steel washers that you bought cheap cannot be picked up by a magnetic probe.

5. No matter how many extensions and knuckles you have its not enough.

6. If the dropped nut or washer cannot be found on the floor of the garage add 1/2 hr to the job.

7. 80% of all dropped items do not fall through, the 20% of items that fall through roll away to a hidden location.

8. When that spring or circlip lets go, start looking for it on the  furtherest away side of the garage first and work your way back its faster to find it.

9. Insignificant noise will become attention grabbing after any unrelated mechanical work is completed.

10. M21 gear selectors are equivalent to a rubics cube for auto mechanics.

11. That 2 person 2 minute job will take multiple attempts and 1/2 hr on your own.

12. That 2 minute 2 person job will take 45 minutes to explain if the assistant is female.

13. The capacity of that  oil tray is 1 litre less than the capacity of the sump you are draining.

14. Engine oil sump capacity is infinite without a sump plug.

15. The oil tray never seems to be in the right spot when you first undo the sump plug.

16. Skin cells do not regenerate if exposed to temperatures above 96 degrees C.

17. If there are sharp bits in there where you will put your hand, you will find them.

18. Beer ( Bourbon) is an essential item in any garage first aid cabinet.
* relieves hyper tension
* can be used to flush eyes
* can be used to flush blood to expose abrasions.
* can be used for pain management
* can be used for anger management
pre- medication is often advisable. A bit like immunisation against the inevitable.

19. Profanity is tension relieving.

20. When you finally get that bit out, throwing it to the $***house is also tension relieving. (Note:- recommend not throwing it too far)

21. Going to retrieve the bit you still need off the bit you threw to the $***house is therapeutic.

22. Finding the bit you need damaged on the bit you threw to the $***house re-establishes tension.

23. The ability to quickly focus (male members only) on and commence auto mechanical necessities often outweighs the need to change out of good clothes.

24. The transition from formal or smart casual attire to garage apparel is often accompanied by female angst.

25. Always cost twice as much as you thought! And then you have the wrong part

26. When you finally realise you need to purchase that part to finish the job off, it's 5:01 pm Saturday (shops closed)

27. The bit that you need is not where you last left it .

28. As you tighten that nut the last little bit, you think "Hope I don't strip the thread" just as you strip the thread!

29. The more expensive or rare a part is, the more chance of it breaking or being damaged.


30. Hi-tension lead leakage can generally be found using exposed skin.


31. Spare part delivery drivers use a different time zone than everyone else, because they are always "5 minutes away" and it always takes them at least an hour.


32. Customers "mates' know exactly what is wrong and how much a job should cost, but don't seem to have the time to do it for them.


 33. It doesn’t matter that a car can have fuel pressure and no spark. If the NRMA man say's it's the fuel pump, than it must be that.


34. When chasing a part you can never find it but when you are no longer looking, there are  millions of them.


36. Bolt on parts never do.


37. You have a 50/50 chance of putting it on the right way the first time, But 90% of the time you get it wrong!


38. when restoring a car, it will always take twice as long and cost 3 times more than you first intended!!!


39. When you buy items(such as grommets)they come in packs of 5,when you need 6!


40. When you need 1, they come in packs of 20.


41. No part ordered that doesn’t fit is incorrect, it just superseded the old part number.


42. (corollary to no. 20) If you throw the tool in frustration instead of the bit, you will immediately need that same tool for the next bolt/screw.

43. The week after you sell that part you bought 15 years ago and never used, you will need it - and it will be NLA.


44. Sure mate,  that will fit,  they are all the same across that model range.


45. Replica parts, they replicate twice the price and / or  less than 1/4 the quality of an original part.


46. Mate I’m after some (wiper Blade Arms) for a VH 1982 Commodore   

            What model is it?


      It’s a VH 1982 Commodore sedan which is code VH8VK 39L


           Ok, VL,  I got VL parts , what part number did you say it was, VH8VK 39L

           Wagon or sedan? L6 or V8?


47. Not everything that went on a vehicle on the production line made it into the spare parts books.


48. Ezy - outs are never easy on that sheared bolt.


49. The bigger and more convoluted the explanation the more you are going to be conned.


50. The customer always pays.


51. Automotive design engineers are sadists. You have to dismantle half the engine to change a spark plug.


52. Clearance what!!!! Clearance.


53. When the owners manual says they recommend that a service technician change the head light globe, you are reassured that you own a late model car.


54: work done is inversely proportional to mess made / damage caused.


55: O'Toole's comment on Murphy’s law: Murphy was an optimist.


56a: the part you threw out / gave away / sold cheap last week after sitting idle for 5 years is required a month after your garage tidy up.


56b: the market price of the part you now require but threw out / sold / gave away is now 5x more expensive than at the time of disposal.


57.  A dropped tool will always fall where it causes the most damage.  This is also called the 'Law of Selective Gravity'.


58. Cleverly dropping another socket in the same position you just lost one to track it trajectory carefully this time and find the other socket results in two lost sockets.

Perhaps if I drop another one??? and another one???


59.  After careful research I have taken the drastic step of banning beer in the garage. Research has uncovered the presence of oestrogen (female hormone) in alarming quantities in common beer. Not being one to take things on face value ALLTRQ and I had a session recently and after 16 beers each we were both talking $hit and could not drive, conclusive proof of the presence of female hormone. We now only allow Bourbon in the garage during project work on the VH.


60. Do not discuss your research into rule no 59 with females. Ouch, damn that woman hits hard, that’s going to leave a mark.


61. The problem you have with the car is never there when you take your car to the mechanic to fix, But returns on the way home.


62.  When you finally get the ratchet in position (on you back under the car), one finger on the socket and 2 fingers on the handle and start to turn, the ratchet is set the wrong way.


63. The next day delivery (for a part to arrive) really means next month!


64. Do not position your face under the rear end of a VL auto transmission when removing the tail shaft.  Note to Self:- If anyone asks can you see through ATF "yes but everything is RED. And it tastes like $hit.


65. If you drop a nut or bolt on the grass it will sink into oblivion and never be seen again. Until the next time you have to mow the lawn.


66.Washing the car is the rain dance and it will rain the next day.


67. If you park near a tree for shade, you always get a big bird **** on it.


68. the part you need is NLA


69. saying profanities repeatedly doesn't stop the blood flow


70. searching  persistence is directly proportional to the replacement value of lost part.


71. the part that you threw out thinking "yeah i'll just buy another one" is NLA and the second-hand one you get will be worse condition than the one you threw out


72. By the time you jack the back of the car up, put it on stands an crawl out and go  the front of the car, it is too low to get the jack under!!!!


73. That no. 8 cylinder extractor bolt, the one under the brake booster, behind the clutch cable and master cylinder brake lines.  Yep that’s the one that will come loose and need tightening.


74. That ebay part you swooped on with the buy it now button, the one that was way under priced and rare arrives and is perfect.  As you take it out to the garage very pleased with yourself to put in your spare parts storage system,  as you open the draw you find 2 NOS items already there with invoices that were cheaper.


75.  That stubby 1/2” spanner you bought for a particularly difficult access job when used requires the strength of hulk Hogan to shift.


76. The length of automotive bolts is inversely proportional to their access and the available throw of the spanned (e.g. that 1 ½” long bolt that you can only get a 2 teeth swing on with a 72 teeth ratchet spanner)

#1056936 Heath's Hatch

Posted by Heath on 14 September 2020 - 06:21 PM

Haha ya don't like me closed door-jam job aye?


In amongst some spare dash parts, I had an ashtray assembly from an LX Sunbird that was ripe for re-purposing. Smoking ain't my thing, and particularly after losing my dad a few months back from emphysema, it won't be added to my list of passtimes in a hurry. So what to do with this redundant thing front and centre in the dash?




First I drilled holes, in the mount, obviously.



Drilled out the rivets to remove the fascia, and cut out some un-necessary bits, and cut a hole out to mount a hinge.



Pulled out a bit of left-over stainless piano hinge from my trap door sump, and cut it to fit the hole.



Cut the front off the ashtray, and used Cardboard Aided Design to make a template for an angled stainless bulkhead which will house 2x panel-mould USB ports.



Cut a new front face for the sliding assembly, that sat back behind the fascia with some clearance, on a bit of a tilt for the magnetic phone mount.



Cut more holes, then welded the front face on, fused the end of the wires on the hinge to the hinge to secure it, and peened the centre section to make the hinge nice and tight (so it always holds its position and doesn't rattle)



Sandblasted it:



Got my hands on a reproduction 'SS' ashtray fascia, sanded the ejector pin witness marks out, and started cutting a few areas out for clearance on the mechanism, before re-painting the back part of it.



Complete... apart from needing to find one of the ball bearings I stupidly misplaced.








#1038283 ID tags- The dodgy ones

Posted by HDTMONARO on 25 September 2019 - 08:09 PM

You guys are all absolutely spot on, I contacted Grays online several days ago and told them the car was not as portrayed.  I advised them of the 3 references to Adelaide, Sydney and Melbourne and that the PSN refers to a late March 1968 HK.   An employee of Gray's who shall remain nameless as I don't want to get sued advised me that Grays online would put out a press release about the car advising that it is a re-body and giving bidders an opportunity to retract bids. 


In actual fact the car was re-bodied twice. The reason this vehicle has fake ID plates in the first place is because when Jim Parrett received the vehicle in 1970 it had no ID plates when delivered.  Funnily enough not many people are aware and I have the photos to prove it, that Bob Morris who leased the HDT Monaro in 1970 actually raced two HDT Monaro's, KKB 336 and KJK 345.  The second car was provided when he stacked the first.  In one sense, the Parrett's never knew which car they took possession of, as there was no ID plates.  How someone can know state this is Brock's car is pure fiction.  Also, the HDT Monaro's were all Melbourne cars.  I owned 57D for 20 years so know a little bit about them.


Anyone purchasing this car should contact any of many varied Monaro experts as they will blow the lid on this bucket of shit.  I wouldn't pay 50K for it, let alone 400K.  The original DNA of this car would be less than 5%.  When Parrett's took delivery of the car in 1970 it did not even have it's original Block.


End of Rant. 

#1032907 Blank tags

Posted by Rockoz on 13 May 2019 - 01:40 PM

I reported him to ebay and Police line.

The intent is there.

Those who know will be able to pick them a mile off.

But when you read some comments from some on Facebook for instance, some keyboard experts have no idea.

Dont care whether people agree with me reporting it or not.

Hopefully here, most would agree.

But unlikely anything will be done about it.

#1064286 Cyclamen Hj Gts Coupe

Posted by bullitA9X on 27 January 2021 - 07:54 PM

Nearly finished be on the road very soon [emoji108][emoji108]dcc531c94ef7a26850bf8c56b873a9e1.jpg

#1061324 Torana power steering kits.

Posted by axistr on 01 December 2020 - 01:51 PM

As mentioned in my previous post I had a call from a fellow Torana owner asking for advice on poor car handling. After a brief discussion he advised me that he had fitted a power steering kit from another company. His complaint was when the car was driven on uneven or bumpy roads the car darted left or right and at times move across half a lane in the blink of an eye. He advised me of the rack brand he fitted, but I thought it may have been more likely a problem with the car.  I asked him had it been wheel aligned properly ? he added he had it aligned after the kit was fitted and read out all the alignment setting. (seem to in spec). I advised him to double check the front end for movement, bushes, bearings, bent or misaligned components and if tightness in any components was noticed. He double checked everything with a fine tooth comb but no faults were found.


After more discussions and part number checks on front end components, it was found that HQ stubs and steering arms were fitted to this car. I advised that the steering arms were not compatible with the Torana geometry and the differences between A9X & HQ stub axles. The owner decided to purchase Harrop steering arms first and hopefully somewhat resolve some of the bump steer that I thought the owner might have been experiencing. 


From the photos I have seen of this competitors rack I knew that it wouldn't have a very good bump steer curve, but the feed back I was getting from this owner lead me to think it may have been more of a problem in the car itself. After fitting the Harrop steering arms the owner reported that although he noticed a slight improvement, the car was still a pig to steer. The frustrated owner decided to purchase a power steering kit off me. I was a bit concerned that if he fitted one of my rack there might have still been an underlying problem with the car. ( I haven't seen or driven this car).


In the next conversation with the owner he asked could I have a look at the other rack and set it up to steer better, as he decided he could fit it to his other Torana as it was to be sold in the near future, and fit my rack on his favorite hatch.

The owner took the two hour drive to my place with the complete competitors kit now removed from his car. In the fitting instructions supplied in this oppositions rack kit it states that its a direct fit to the K-frame no mods needed.


My findings. 


1) Although the fitting instructions stated no mods needed to the car it also said "minor removal of material may need to be removed from the drivers side engine mount plate on some cars."  To get this rack to fit to any Torana a large amount of metal needs to be removed. Basically the entire metal plate that is welded to the K-frame which the input shaft of the rack passes through needs to be removed. Strength of the K-frame is reduced in this area in doing so. (not a good practice).


2) During my initial geometry checks before and during development of my conversion kit, I was very surprised by how much change in toe out on turns and induced bump steer change there was when the rack was positioned away from the original manual rack position. There is a sweet spot but I managed to improve on the original setup/geometry. When I did the check on this competitors kit I was shocked by how far the rack sits forward of the K-frame. And it got worse, the rack was also sitting way to low. When at ride height the rack end bars had a steep upward angle to the steering arm tie rod ends.


When viewed from the side the rack end bars pointed back towards the steering arms 1 1/2". It doesn't matter what ride height you have you will never fix this issue. To get this rack to fit on a Torana they have made the rack mount sit to low and way to far forward. The rack is just not suitable for a Torana conversion.


3) The supplied outer tie rod ends have Nylock nuts to retain them. I assume this is due to the fit not being correct in the Torana steering arms. When I checked the contact in the tie rod studs they were only half engaged in the original steering arm tapper. By using Nyloc nuts you don't have to worry about lining up with a castle nut and split pin hole. Maybe I am old but I still like to see a secure split pin to ensure the castle nut is tight and hasn't loosened. You don't get that with a Nyloc nut which are known and do move from time to time.  I do not see Nyloc nuts to be as safe as a castle nut and split pin, that's why most manufactures still use the old tried and tested split pins. 


4) I don't like aluminum used in hydraulic cylinders, yes aluminum is lighter but will suffer from ware and scratches in the bore very early in it is life cycle, and its a re sleeve or throw away. There are a few other things that don't impress me with this kit but I have only focused on the major issues. 



7834684109879734700336.JPG -8994845583645387247335.JPG






As they say you only get what you pay for, but this kit is $500.00 more than my kit, so your not getting what your paying for in my opinion. The bump steer curve is of major concern to the point of being dangerous given the right conditions. I always say to people that it should be more about better handling with the added bonus of being easier to steer. Unfortunately the only feature of this rack is lighter to steer. I would think the people that put this kit together didn't have a basic understanding of steering geometry and its effects. Its also obviously this rack was suited to other vehicle conversions, but the same rack fitted to a Torana just will not give good steering and handling. 


The feed back from the owner after fitting my rack was positive. He called me after fitting my kit and said it was a different car to drive and much better than the original manual rack and light years over the other brand, The car hadn't been wheel aligned yet but the owner said he car handled brilliant over any road surface or condition.


There is a second aftermarket kit now available which is $500.00 cheaper than mine, but going by the photos it will suffer with the same problems as the rack kit I tested. Both of these racks are just to big with incorrect dimensions to successfully  fit to a Torana without cutting away most of the front of the K-frame. And that will cause so many issues to the fitter and engineering people. 


I am not writing this post to promote my kits. I posted to better inform buyers of the pit falls. I know when my kits are fitted to a standard Torana they are a direct bolt on, no mucking around, no mods needed to the car. The only time I have the occasional call from owners is due to so many modification over the years. I try to keep on top of any areas of concern and the uni coupling I released recently was to allow for customers that require more clearance around extractors. I commonly see 1 7/8 extractors in engine bays these days, room in a Torana has always been at a premium in the engine bay.


I always ask the owner to send me there steering arms to ensure a perfect fit. I know for some owners it can be a bit of a hassle getting them off and sending them, but I think is a small price to pay to ensure a straight forward installation. Many of these arms are now over forty years old , i regally find arms they need squaring up. Around 65% of the arms I check need reaming or a quick clean up. 


Happy driving,


Regards Lenny. 

#1061242 Torana power steering kits.

Posted by axistr on 29 November 2020 - 04:27 PM

G'day forum members, over the past few months there has been a sharp increase for power steering kits. It seems many owners have been out in the shed working on their Torana during  these stupid times of covid lockdown. For the first time since I have been building power steering conversion kits I have had to start on back orders. For the past ten years I have been able to keep stock on the shelf. January & June generally are the busy months. Currently orders are at 2-3 weeks lead time. 


House keeping,


I generally like to talk to owners to ensure the Torana they intend on fitting power steering to has the correct components for good handling. There are a few miss conceptions out there about what the best components to use are. 


1) In my opinion the best setup is LH,LX, UC stub axles with UC steering arms and UC upper control arms. 1" lower springs and medium compression shock setting with quality shocks and ant roll bar front and rear.  If the top inner control arm are mounted in lower holes then Camber gain can be increased for slightly better handling and front tyre ware. I hope that's clear and straight forward. Standard LX setup isn't bad, but not as good as UC. LH really could do with better steering arms to get a better suspension travel curve, try and source some UC steering arms if possible.


The UC upper control arms allow for increased Caster setting due to the top ball joint position being mounted further rearward in the arm. Higher positive caster is desirable with manual or power steering steering, it gives the car a more weighted and planted on the road feeling, only down side is with manual racks makes the car heavy to steer. But that's why your probably look in this thread anyway because your over wrestling your car at slow speeds.


I consider using  HT-HG HQ-WB stubs on a Torana a step backwards. Yes you will get a lower roll centre, but the king pin inclination is two degrees different than LH-UC & A9X and in most cases you will not be able to wheel align the extra 2 degrees of unwanted negative camber out. Moreover the steering geometry scrub radius is also effected. If you do have HQ stubs and want to retain them the A9X steering arms must be used and that means going Harrop steering because no one is going to part with their original A9X steering arms these days.  Harrop arms are now $500 per set.


I had a customer bring to me a competitors power conversion rack kit three weeks ago which I had time to do a few simple geometry check on. I don't like knocking other company's but I feel like I should warn of my finding. I have known for some time just going by pictures that their kits couldn't meet the basic geometry needed for the Torana conversion, but its worse than first thought. I will add my finding soon. I am not going to post it for my own gain only to advise Torana owners what the differences are. Moderators please advise me if you do not want me to post these findings


Cheers Lenny.      

#1036304 show us your mancave

Posted by LONA-CK on 06 August 2019 - 09:08 AM

So 18 months ago I started building my man cave,,, the church of Holden


Cheer gong


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#1033855 Country Roads are they Killing us ?

Posted by Rockoz on 01 June 2019 - 09:18 AM

The number 1 killer on our roads is the lack of driver training.

I have attended hundreds of crashes over the years. Many of them fatals. A lot multiple fatalities.

Lots and lots of injured people.

I have helped pull them out badly injured, dead, and in a few cases, in pieces.


I have yet to see a single crash that could have been avoided by any of the following.


The ability to reverse park.

The ability to do a hill start.

The ability to do a U turn.

The ability to do a 3 point turn.


Not a single crash could have been avoided with any of those skills.


Cars have become easier to drive. They are safer in the event of a crash.

They have become quieter and more comfortable.

They require less and less driver input as engineering progesses.


As a rule, our roads have become better and safer.

Road shoulders have been extended. Trees have been removed.

Multiple lanes have been created.

Speed limits reduced.


But if you look into the statistics, our road toll has been decreasing yearly. 

When you look at the number of deaths per thousand registered vehicles, it shows a steady decrease.


More than 95% of drivers only have enough ability to keep their car reasonably between the painted lines on the road.

In the event that something unusual happens, like a slight loss of control, they have no idea on what to do.

Quite often they do the exact opposite of what they should do.


Drivers without necessary training and ability, has always, and will always be the major cause of crashes.

#1065777 Cyclamen Hj Gts Coupe

Posted by bullitA9X on 26 February 2021 - 11:24 PM

Well it’s all finally finished so went for a run to where all the materials come from great service and products [emoji3]



#1055293 John's LX SS Harry the Holden build

Posted by Johnnie27 on 13 August 2020 - 05:47 PM

forgot to add harry 

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#1005464 Zane's XU-1

Posted by Bigfella237 on 18 September 2017 - 07:54 AM

Welcome to the forum, Zane, that's a great looking barn find you got there!


If I can offer some advice, assuming everything is as original as it looks, make sure you keep it all together. What I mean is, rebuild everything that's on the car now, don't send anything in for "exchange" or accept offers to swap somebody for something.


Most things on the car are date coded and some are almost impossible to find / replace so make sure you really trust anyone you send stuff to as well, plenty of stories out there about rare cars coming back from mechanics or panel shops with parts swapped out.


Everything can be rebuilt rather than replaced, it might cost a little more initially but it's worth it to have a genuine "numbers matching" car at the end.