checklist for an engine swap
#1 _LC2250_
Posted 20 December 2005 - 01:07 PM
the engine swap is just from a 2250 to a red 202.
I am thinking of leaving the gearbox attatched and taking it all out as one and then reconnecting the gearbox to the new motor out of the car ... any concearns here?
also taking the old manifolds and exhaust (in the short term) dizzy and other bits and pieces and putting it on the new motor ... any troubles here? Obviously a 202 carby will be in order here.
I think I've exhausted anything I can think of. I'd love input from anyone as to what I should be careful of or ad to my list here
Thanks
-Al
#2
Posted 20 December 2005 - 04:01 PM
Pull motor out with box is quicker, might need dummy tailshaft or plug in the back of the box, else oils everywhere. Input shaft or clutch alignment tool is good for the refit, but I reckon you can get the box on the new one pretty easy out of the car. Couple of little things,if the new donk was in front of an auto you will need a spigot bush.Check out the clutch plate, might be good time to wack in a new one,Im sure you will get heaps more tips off the forumers, so good luck with it and have fun!!!!
#3 _draglc_
Posted 20 December 2005 - 04:15 PM
i found it quite difficult to pull the box out with the engine, gotta be able to lift it all pretty high to clear the rad support, and yeh you will need to plug the back of the gearbox or oil will go EVERYWHERE!! or you could try draining it beforehand.
GOOD LUCK!
#4 _rorym_
Posted 20 December 2005 - 05:41 PM
R
#5 _Keithy's_UC_
Posted 20 December 2005 - 07:25 PM
You will obviously be taking your bonnet off and radiator out - i would reccommend taking the tranny out with the motor as you can ensure all bolts are tight and it is much easier than getting under your car to locate bolts and line up the input shaft!! Are you replacing your engine mounts too?? Have a look at the condition of all your mounts before you rip the package out to ensure your putting everything back in with good parts behind it! Its also a good time to degrease your tranny if it had any leaks at all! And paint it if you want!!
When i did the engine swap in my UC, i took the time to paint up my crossmember and any areas in my engine bay that looked a bit dull!! And i gave the fresh paint in my engine bay a polish while i was at it (my car was resprayed not long before my engine swap)!!
Other than that - take your time and be patient with that damn tailshaft (i hate those small bolts...!!..!!..!!
Keith
#6
Posted 20 December 2005 - 08:07 PM
1. a few good mates to help
2. A large packet of patience
3. And a fair bit of alcohol to celebrate when its done...
#7
Posted 20 December 2005 - 08:11 PM
The swap is a fairly straight forward one, don't forget to mark the position of the hinges on the bonnett when you take it off (pencil or felt pen traced around the hinge face where it meets the bonnett, this will save you having to readjust the bonnett when you throw it back on.
#8 _LC2250_
Posted 21 December 2005 - 10:02 AM
now to go through these
to fly:
The clutch is only a about 2000km old so hopefuly it'll be right ... but prolly better safe than sorry to check it and it's going to be behind an m20.
draglc:
When you say difficult to clear with the box ... is it impossible or will I need to be jacking the front up a bit?
I have very vivid memories from when I changed the old 3speed for an m20 in the driveway of a lot of oil went everywhere ... oops a dummy tail shaft piece might be in order ... would a tarp or garbage bag around the end with rubber bands do the trick just as well?
rorym:
got a very complete socket kit ... but I do remember it being a bitch getting that top drivers side bolt off last time.
Also what exactly do you mean by " The alternative is to drop the subframe and lift the body off. Preferred by some blokes like Big Als Army." you talking about the whole car there?
Keithy's_UC:
I wanted to kill someone/something when I was fiddling around lining up the input shaft last time ... man that was frustrating.
I would like to assume that the engine mounts are in good condition considering the previous owner of this car and the meticulous care that was taken in preserving it ... but better to be safe. What exactly should I be looking for in regards to wear and tear on these mounts? Paint sounds like fun ... if time permits I'll definitely clean the bay up ... maybe paint ...
gml-31:
don't you worry, they are all definitely covered ... hopefuly we have bought enough patience ... but definitely the last will not be in short order
surfmaster:
what should I look for in cleaning the radiator ... obviously using a high pressure hose through the thing will bend the baffles up ... any special way to do this?
Thanks all for your input
-Al
#9 _LX406_
Posted 21 December 2005 - 10:54 AM
#10
Posted 21 December 2005 - 05:20 PM
#11 _rorym_
Posted 21 December 2005 - 05:35 PM
R
#12 _LC2250_
Posted 21 December 2005 - 08:47 PM
Just one last annoying question ... I've heard good things about these nolathene bushes ... but what do they actually do that is so good or better than standard?
Cheers
-Al
ps. alcohol is definitely not optional ... sure my temperament will be well and truly burnt out by the end of this
#13 __azza_
Posted 23 December 2005 - 11:04 PM
im really interested in the droping the sub-frame, got a few questions on how its done though...
after unbolting the subframe, can you lift the body up with a trolly jack and a pair of stands or do you need a hoist? then im guessing that you roll the motor and box forward, swap it over with your new motor and then roll it back. how high does the body need to be lifted. im thinking that the rear bar on a LX is going to be on the ground?? do i have the correct procedure?
cheers
#14 _draglc_
Posted 23 December 2005 - 11:15 PM
A1
#15 _Keithy's_UC_
Posted 24 December 2005 - 07:06 AM
You dont need much paint to do your crossmember area! I did my whole crossmember, steering rack, control arms and stabiliser bar too! Didnt even use half a tin of black paint!! Food for thought really!
I've got a question for you now... Is the 202 reco'd? Has it any mods (headwork, cam, forgies)???
Nolathene bushes are better than standard rubber ones, but poly-urethene ones are better still! The way they are developed is to have the 'movement' characteristics of a rubber bush, but with the strength characteristics of something a lot harder! I use poly bushes in the UC, havent changed them in about 5years - and they're still going strong!!
#16 _Linamint_LC_
Posted 24 December 2005 - 09:35 PM
#17 _82911_
Posted 25 December 2005 - 12:16 PM
1:Rocker cover off.
2:Bellhousing and clutch on
3:Water pump off.
4:Back off car 2' off the ground and stands under it.
5:Bonnet off, unless your hinges are stuffed, then you can just prop it up a bit further with a broomstick!
Bit of angle on the engine and in she goes!
For LJ /LC V8 drop the crossmember and motor transmission then lift the body off and rollit away, Don't forget the brake lines!
Cheers Greg..
Edited by 82911, 25 December 2005 - 12:16 PM.
#18 _LC2250_
Posted 26 December 2005 - 10:53 AM
The motor that is going back in is a reco'ed bottom end ... nothing to special but it has a rebuilt head.
One thing I never realised until we tried to put it on the new one ... the flywheel from the 138 is different to the one from a 202. Is this supposed to be like this? It was a lot of fun figuring that out ... luckily a mate had a spare 202 one which needs a bit of a machining.
The old clutch still has a fair bit of life left in it ... is that going to fit onto this new flywheel? Or do I need a whole new clutch ... grrr ...
Oh yeah, and my engine mounts are fine ... they look quite new actually.
Cheers
-Al
#19
Posted 26 December 2005 - 11:08 AM
Edited by surfmaster, 26 December 2005 - 11:13 AM.
#20 _LC2250_
Posted 26 December 2005 - 11:26 AM
#21
Posted 26 December 2005 - 11:33 AM
#22 _Keithy's_UC_
Posted 26 December 2005 - 01:58 PM
Sometimes flywheels can be difficult to manouvre into place, try getting a brick or something under it while you line up at least 2 bolt holes! I had fun getting the 179 pressure plate back on! I thought there was something seriously wrong until i jiggled it around a bit and all bolts went on without drama!
Keith
P.S. Have you found any problems so far that your gonna run into?? If so, ask away, we'll all help you out!
#23 _LC2250_
Posted 26 December 2005 - 02:37 PM
So in conclusion here ... the old flywheel does not fit on the new 202 block ... the other flywheel that I have (in need of machining) does fit on the new block but I am concearned that the flywheel that is to be machine will not suit my old clutch ... I'm not concearned about having to buy a new clutch but it would be nice to at least order the right one to suit the flywheel etc.
Oh yeah, that spigot bush was a bitch to get in right ... ended up putting a big flat piece of wood on the end and hitting it with a rubber mellet.
Thanks again all for your ongoing help
-Al
#24 _IPRALC4Door_
Posted 27 December 2005 - 07:29 AM
As I understand it, the standard rubber bushes can wear and flex. Depending on where the bush actually is, this means you can get slight geometry changes while cornering, for example, with the resulting detrimental effects on handling. The Nolathane ones are harder, and dont allow this flexing to happen as readily, so you get better handling.Just one last annoying question ... I've heard good things about these nolathene bushes ... but what do they actually do that is so good or better than standard?
That's how I've had it explained to me, anyway. Suspension and so on's not my strong point.
#25 _bones_
Posted 27 December 2005 - 07:53 AM
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