Help!!
R
Edited by rorym, 27 October 2006 - 08:46 PM.
Volvo 4 Spot conversion
Started by
_rorym_
, Oct 27 2006 08:44 PM
33 replies to this topic
#1
_rorym_
_rorym_
-
- Guests
Posted 27 October 2006 - 08:44 PM
After finding out that the Skyline diff conversion to a LH/LJ had been done it occurs to me that a lot of people have done things without passing on the info. The great 4 spot Volvo conversion is a classis example. The latest thread was a ..guess what we used..what did you think we did here type of thing that really just pisses me off. I try to flow all my experience and information on to people on the LC/J V8 conversion who want to know..Ask Adam..(LXDV8 handle thing) What I would like is a blow by blow step on converting an lj/LH to 4 spots. If you have the template for the bracket to bolt them up..great!!..I will actually PAY you for a set of plans or the templates if you can get them cut out. I saw a crashed XU1 at the last Noosa Hillclimb..Kevin Heffernans with ventilated 4 spot calipers on it.. Quite happy to pay money for bracket/parts for the conversion..Why are we reinventing the bloody wheel over and over again and not sharing the information???
Help!!
R
Help!!
R
#2
RIM-010
View Garage
-
- Members
-
- 8,075 posts
DON'T PANIC
- Name:Tim
- Location:Cowell, SA
- Car:LJ 2 Door - HQ Premier
- Joined: 01-March 06
View Garage
Posted 27 October 2006 - 10:14 PM
:+1: I'd love to know more about this setup. The LJ needs brakes...
RIM
RIM
#4
_rorym_
_rorym_
-
- Guests
Posted 28 October 2006 - 06:39 AM
The first one is the one I was reffering to and the second one is for LC/J. It wanders off subject to AU. What model calipers off what Volvo? etc etc
My point is If someone has a template of the mounting bracket why not share it? Saves me and everyone else spending time and $ to reinvent the wheel.
A sticky of step by step procedure would be good as well like the old tech articles.
R
My point is If someone has a template of the mounting bracket why not share it? Saves me and everyone else spending time and $ to reinvent the wheel.
A sticky of step by step procedure would be good as well like the old tech articles.
R
Edited by rorym, 28 October 2006 - 06:44 AM.
#5
TerrA LX
-
- Members
-
- 14,241 posts
Fulcrum Fixture
- Location:Sid 'n' knee
- Joined: 31-May 06
Posted 28 October 2006 - 08:11 AM
a collection of on line templates ready to print. excellent.
might put a few big biz noz out tho.
might put a few big biz noz out tho.
#6
_rorym_
_rorym_
-
- Guests
Posted 28 October 2006 - 09:27 AM
Dont get me wrong..I appreciate the info here so far but we are not working together. We can short cut heaps if we help eachother. I am quite willing to do full article on the V8 LC/J conversion..that will make the process so much easier for others..and I am more than willing to take PMs or calls on the job for clarification.
R
R
#7
RIM-010
View Garage
-
- Members
-
- 8,075 posts
DON'T PANIC
- Name:Tim
- Location:Cowell, SA
- Car:LJ 2 Door - HQ Premier
- Joined: 01-March 06
View Garage
Posted 28 October 2006 - 09:36 AM
I agree. I've been thinkin about it for a while, In the Tech Articles we should have all of the Popular conversions etc. 9" into LH/LX, V8 into LC/LJ, Discs onto LC/LJ etc etc.
RIM
RIM
#8
_JBird_
_JBird_
-
- Guests
Posted 28 October 2006 - 10:33 AM
So true. It's awesome when Rory, PM's me back - but I feel like I'm annoying him because probably everyone asks him about V8 conversions.
#9
_rorym_
_rorym_
-
- Guests
Posted 28 October 2006 - 10:48 AM
Have not got a problem with it at all.
R
R
#10
_LX8VD69_
_LX8VD69_
-
- Guests
Posted 28 October 2006 - 12:06 PM
yeah i agree with rory, and this will also help new forum members understand better what their options are and it will also help them actually do it. if that makes sense. and yeah when it came to sorting out my understeer issue rory could not help me enough, thanks rory 
#11
_rorym_
_rorym_
-
- Guests
Posted 28 October 2006 - 03:36 PM
I will also commit to do an article in blow by blow stage on fitting a Skyline Borg Warner diff to an LH and all costs involved. At 9mm wider on each side it HAS to be the answer to the bango problem!! With full spool will be under $800...Best bang for bucks you guys are going to get!!! (Diff $100, brackets $350, Weld and redrill axles $195, mini spool.$75 or full spool $150) Start buying them up NOW!..I am looking for another one as I reckon they will be hard after this is done. Or the price will go through the roof..one or the other
R
R
#12
_CHOPPER_
_CHOPPER_
-
- Guests
Posted 28 October 2006 - 04:53 PM
So where do you get the $150 full spool from?
How many splines?
How many splines?
#13
_rorym_
_rorym_
-
- Guests
Posted 28 October 2006 - 08:56 PM
Just going on Ebay prices..$150 28 splines.. but you get the pic.
R
R
#14
dattoman
-
- Administrators
-
- 16,471 posts
Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?
- Name:Neil
- Location:Perth Western Australia
- Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
- Joined: 04-February 07
Posted 28 October 2006 - 09:49 PM
When I get time
When I get my name on the door
When I get my workshop open
When the hoist is installed and wired up
Then I will write some articles and take some pics
Can you wait a few months ?
Oh and its Volvo Girling brakes off 240 series cars for the heavy calipers
But I thought you had already organised other calipers
When I get my name on the door
When I get my workshop open
When the hoist is installed and wired up
Then I will write some articles and take some pics
Can you wait a few months ?
Oh and its Volvo Girling brakes off 240 series cars for the heavy calipers
But I thought you had already organised other calipers
#15
A9X
View Garage
-
- Members
-
- 5,024 posts
A fortunate run
- Name:Welby
- Location:Perth
- Joined: 09-November 05
View Garage
Posted 28 October 2006 - 10:06 PM
@#$% Datto, we need to talk!!
Have you got the workshop yet, or do you need one.
Welby
Have you got the workshop yet, or do you need one.
Welby
#16
dattoman
-
- Administrators
-
- 16,471 posts
Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?
- Name:Neil
- Location:Perth Western Australia
- Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
- Joined: 04-February 07
Posted 28 October 2006 - 10:20 PM
No papers have been signed yet but hands have been shook
Deals have been struck and promises have been made
If all goes to plan I should have an operation in place by end of January
Deals have been struck and promises have been made
If all goes to plan I should have an operation in place by end of January
#17
_rorym_
_rorym_
-
- Guests
Posted 29 October 2006 - 08:21 AM
Didnt go the other discs..I am a thinker..and I think this is a totally easier route. It appears if we have a template or can get just the brackets..if you have any type of mechanical knowledge this appears on the surface to be a fantastic quick solution to fitting 4 spots.If I have too..I will make them up myself but would be easier if someone shared the info. Like I said..here we go again..all doing the same thing 20 bloody times!! 
R
R
#18
dattoman
-
- Administrators
-
- 16,471 posts
Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?
- Name:Neil
- Location:Perth Western Australia
- Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
- Joined: 04-February 07
Posted 29 October 2006 - 12:30 PM
OK....... I'll lay this out as plain as I can without it trying to sound wrong/nasty
Volvo brakes are crap
They were designed to get grandma to and from the bowling club at residential speeds
Your going to build a fast car that will need better brakes
Volvo calipers are heavy cast iron with small pistons and insufficient pad area for what you need
They are cheap and plentiful so lots of people use them..... this does not make them good
If you really must do it and you have disc brake stubs there is no bracket to fabricate as they are adapted to the original Torana stub.
BMW 3000 discs are used trimmed down to 256mm and adapted to standard LC-LJ hubs
This is done due to class regs in Nc that say no increase in diamater of disc
I'm guessing you will need bigger brakes for your heavier LH so this will be unacceptable to have lil 256mm ones
I haven't seen anyone put Volvos onto LH-LX before. However I read that Polar8 had them but never saw them personally.
Personally as a minimum for what you are doing you would use HQ stubs and disc mounted to the car with them at the back of the stub axle
Wilwood Superlite 4 pot calipers with decent pads in them (Ferodo DS2500)
I would also switch to a balance bar assembly and twin master cylinders like Howard has on Litre8 so you can tailer your correct brake bias for front rear split
This combination is being used successfully by at least one forum member who recently competed in the NSW Dutton and by his emails to me seems very happy with his setup.
This would be the minimum I would recommend
When I build my car I will be using a fabricated hub , VT discs (296x28mm) CP5200 AP 4 pot alloy calipers and Ferodo pads
2 main reasons......
1. I know I can fit this under the 15" rims I will be using
2. Cause I can......... and I know it works
If it takes me alittle longer to build cause it costs me alittle more then it takes longer. I'd rather do it once and have it right than spend the money twice and have the frustations associated with a car thats not up to the standard I set for myself
This is all for the new track sedan by the way. Not the hatch which will still be getting 330mm brakes.
Volvo brakes are crap
They were designed to get grandma to and from the bowling club at residential speeds
Your going to build a fast car that will need better brakes
Volvo calipers are heavy cast iron with small pistons and insufficient pad area for what you need
They are cheap and plentiful so lots of people use them..... this does not make them good
If you really must do it and you have disc brake stubs there is no bracket to fabricate as they are adapted to the original Torana stub.
BMW 3000 discs are used trimmed down to 256mm and adapted to standard LC-LJ hubs
This is done due to class regs in Nc that say no increase in diamater of disc
I'm guessing you will need bigger brakes for your heavier LH so this will be unacceptable to have lil 256mm ones
I haven't seen anyone put Volvos onto LH-LX before. However I read that Polar8 had them but never saw them personally.
Personally as a minimum for what you are doing you would use HQ stubs and disc mounted to the car with them at the back of the stub axle
Wilwood Superlite 4 pot calipers with decent pads in them (Ferodo DS2500)
I would also switch to a balance bar assembly and twin master cylinders like Howard has on Litre8 so you can tailer your correct brake bias for front rear split
This combination is being used successfully by at least one forum member who recently competed in the NSW Dutton and by his emails to me seems very happy with his setup.
This would be the minimum I would recommend
When I build my car I will be using a fabricated hub , VT discs (296x28mm) CP5200 AP 4 pot alloy calipers and Ferodo pads
2 main reasons......
1. I know I can fit this under the 15" rims I will be using
2. Cause I can......... and I know it works
If it takes me alittle longer to build cause it costs me alittle more then it takes longer. I'd rather do it once and have it right than spend the money twice and have the frustations associated with a car thats not up to the standard I set for myself
This is all for the new track sedan by the way. Not the hatch which will still be getting 330mm brakes.
#19
_rorym_
_rorym_
-
- Guests
Posted 29 October 2006 - 01:01 PM
Ahh..Good!..The Brembos were nice but I hesitated due to the 32mm thick caliper. If I can stay with GMH products I would be happier. I favour the HQ hubs and disc conversion but would have to play around with a good caliper.. Those APs we saw recently would have been perfect but were a bit strong on price for me. I already decided on HQ pattern anyway so now you are making sense and it easier for me to move forward.Now I have to go back and check all posts on HQ to LH conversions and look at the CRS stuff as well. Thanks Neil..all makes sense to me.
R
R
#20
dattoman
-
- Administrators
-
- 16,471 posts
Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?
- Name:Neil
- Location:Perth Western Australia
- Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
- Joined: 04-February 07
Posted 29 October 2006 - 01:31 PM
HQ conversion
Then maybe upspec some better calipers later
https://cache.gmh-to...ana/Brakes1.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...ana/Brakes2.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...ana/Brakes3.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...ana/Brakes4.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...ana/Brakes5.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...ana/Brakes6.jpg
Then maybe upspec some better calipers later
https://cache.gmh-to...ana/Brakes1.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...ana/Brakes2.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...ana/Brakes3.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...ana/Brakes4.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...ana/Brakes5.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...ana/Brakes6.jpg
#21
_CHOPPER_
_CHOPPER_
-
- Guests
Posted 29 October 2006 - 01:38 PM
Neil, isn't this the write up where you said some of the brake hose part numbers were bogus? If so, what are the correct ones?
#22
dattoman
-
- Administrators
-
- 16,471 posts
Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?
- Name:Neil
- Location:Perth Western Australia
- Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
- Joined: 04-February 07
Posted 29 October 2006 - 01:53 PM
Page 5
Hose # is wrong..... can't remember the right one at the mo either
If changing to the HQ rears and you experience lockup put the 3/4" Torana cylinders back on before playing with proportioning valves
Car will need a wheel alignment after this as the KPI of the stubs is different
Also check for bumpsteer issues
Hose # is wrong..... can't remember the right one at the mo either
If changing to the HQ rears and you experience lockup put the 3/4" Torana cylinders back on before playing with proportioning valves
Car will need a wheel alignment after this as the KPI of the stubs is different
Also check for bumpsteer issues
#23
_CHOPPER_
_CHOPPER_
-
- Guests
Posted 29 October 2006 - 01:56 PM
Giving Harrop $297 for their steering arms should fix the bumpsteer bit. Camber will be lowered by 2 degrees, so you may run out of adjustment trying to reset it. Mind you, there's no such thing as too much negative camber for an LH - UC.
#24
_rorym_
_rorym_
-
- Guests
Posted 29 October 2006 - 02:08 PM
Thanks Neil..saves me looking..So you swap the hubs around L to R ...then swap the arms back. Pretty easy. Rears are Skyline discs.Whats the CRS kit all all about? Similiar stuff as Harrop?
R
R
Edited by rorym, 29 October 2006 - 02:10 PM.
#25
_CHOPPER_
_CHOPPER_
-
- Guests
Posted 29 October 2006 - 04:32 PM
CRS make their own stub axles to suit most vehicles and brake conversions without adapter plates. They are also available as a drop spindle, but cost around the $600 mark.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users
