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304 Rear Main Seals

Started by _rorym_ , Oct 29 2006 08:11 AM

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17 replies to this topic

#1 _rorym_

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 08:11 AM

Whats the deal on rear main seals on 304s? Some seem to be wick and others neoprene it appears or am I reading it wrong?
Thanks
R

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#2 Struggler

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 09:13 AM

All 304's are rope rear main, however there are neoprene aftermarket seals that can be modified to fit.

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#3 _rorym_

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 11:05 AM

Thanks Strug..Didnt know that..Now if I can just get that frigging Allen head bolt loose I can get the head off!! Any Ideas?
R

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#4 _LH SL/R 5000_

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 11:14 AM

Cut off a piece of allen key and find a 1/2" drive socket that will fit then undo, that way you can use your 1/2" drive torque wrench for tensioning.

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#5 _rorym_

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 11:32 AM

Good Idea! This thing is solid so I am soaking it with WD40 as much as I can at the moment.
R

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#6 _rorym_

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 11:53 AM

Did that..Got one out..Tried the other one and it is being stubborn..I will undo all the other head bolts first like the first one..Give it a tap and try again. The pistons are basically flat with a small dish in the centre with no numbers so I am guessing it still on std bore.
R

Edited by rorym, 29 October 2006 - 11:55 AM.

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#7 _LH SL/R 5000_

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 01:05 PM

Might be any idea to tighten up on the other ones again then try and get out the stubborn one first, as with the others undone there will probably be even more tension on it, just an idea.

Brad.

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#8 _rorym_

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 01:37 PM

Tried everything..this thing is stuck..The hole is getting buggered too..so it might be a cold chisel tap tap job. 230k motor never apart so I guess you need to expect that.Also snapped an inlet manifold bolt off that had water around it in its life...Love theses jobs!..Not!..
R

Edited by rorym, 29 October 2006 - 01:37 PM.

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#9 _LH SL/R 5000_

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 01:44 PM

Maybe try welding a 1/2" bolt to the head of the cap screw then use a spanner or socket.

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#10 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 01:52 PM

There used to be special weld nuts just for this purpose available from Repco. It was designed so it could be mig welded to the top of a nut so another socket could be used to undo it. It was also designed to reduce welding spatter going everywhere. The idea of using the mig was so after welding, the bolt would contract slightly, thereby ( in theory ) help with removing. I haven't seen them in years, but then again, I haven't looked either.

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#11 _LH SL/R 5000_

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 01:56 PM

That's always another option, weld an oversized nut from the inside to reduce the spatter everywhere.

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#12 _rorym_

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 02:03 PM

or pay some other bastard to do it for you! Lol!
R

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#13 Struggler

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 02:04 PM

If I don't get those cap screw head bolts first go I will heat them up with a torch (butane will do, or oxy), then allow to cool with a hit of WD40. They come out quite easily. As Chopper said, the heat expands them a touch, then when they cool the corrosive bond is broken. Don't reuse a head bolt that has been removed with heat. This tip is also very effective when used on oil gallery plugs as well, particularly those at the back of the block.

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#14 _rorym_

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 02:15 PM

Well the whole motor needs a chemical bath...typical wreckers engine..sludge in everything...looks like it had an oil change at 30k out of the 230k!..I have one head off..then if I can pull it down taking the crank rods and pistons out. I might just transport it with the second head still on to the builder/borer to deal with it. At least then it will be only a block and one head.
R

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#15 Struggler

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 04:16 PM

I have one head off..then if I can pull it down taking the crank rods and pistons out. I might just transport it with the second head still on to the builder/borer to deal with it. At least then it will be only a block and one head.
R

I am sure you will find getting the pistons out of the bottom of the bore a challenge.