hey,
As title states whats involved in getting a front commodore stud pattern as I am hopefully going to buy a wreck and get engine,box and driveline out of it???
Youngy
Changing front end to commo stud patttern
Started by
_youngy_11_
, Nov 07 2006 04:08 PM
13 replies to this topic
#2
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 07 November 2006 - 05:56 PM
I will first assume you are attempting this conversion on an LH - UC Torana. The cheapest way would be to buy adapter plates which change the sut pattern. Allow $30 to buy a 15 MM thick pair.
Next cheapest would be if you could get hold of a pair of Torana drum brake stub axles. I chased down a pair for $154, so I didn't buy them. You then need the CRS kit to fit the Commodre front brakes.
A better option would be to use HQ disc brake stubs, HQ PBR cast iron calipers and buy undrilled HQ front discs ( DBA 014 U ) and get the centre bore turned down to 69.5 MM and get it studded to Commodore. Problem is, 14" Commodore rims will foul using this conversion. The widest 15" rim ( assuming a +43 offset ) would be a 15x6. Allow about $900.
For a couple of hunfred more, get a Hoppers Stoppers kit. Bigger disc, much better caliper, all bits are new and it will stop better.
dattoman is working on a kit for me that will retail for $3K - $4K, depending on options.
Next cheapest would be if you could get hold of a pair of Torana drum brake stub axles. I chased down a pair for $154, so I didn't buy them. You then need the CRS kit to fit the Commodre front brakes.
A better option would be to use HQ disc brake stubs, HQ PBR cast iron calipers and buy undrilled HQ front discs ( DBA 014 U ) and get the centre bore turned down to 69.5 MM and get it studded to Commodore. Problem is, 14" Commodore rims will foul using this conversion. The widest 15" rim ( assuming a +43 offset ) would be a 15x6. Allow about $900.
For a couple of hunfred more, get a Hoppers Stoppers kit. Bigger disc, much better caliper, all bits are new and it will stop better.
dattoman is working on a kit for me that will retail for $3K - $4K, depending on options.
#3
_youngy_11_
_youngy_11_
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Posted 09 November 2006 - 01:29 PM
Yea sorry its for a LX hatch.
Ok theres a few options that good, do you think the torana brakes would be enough for a 200 hP ish daily driver?
So with the HQ disc brake stubs setup the widest tyres for the front could only be 6"??
Which is what i was looking at running or maybe a little bigger I don't want it to be too hard to turn.
Ill keep researching
thanks Youngy
Ok theres a few options that good, do you think the torana brakes would be enough for a 200 hP ish daily driver?
So with the HQ disc brake stubs setup the widest tyres for the front could only be 6"??
Which is what i was looking at running or maybe a little bigger I don't want it to be too hard to turn.
Ill keep researching
thanks Youngy
#4
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Posted 09 November 2006 - 04:10 PM
Are the Torana brakes good enough now? If so, leave the bloody things alone. If not, upgrade them. Simple.
#5
_youngy_11_
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Posted 10 November 2006 - 12:04 PM
yea well i would know if the car was driveable. 
#6
_JBird_
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Posted 10 November 2006 - 01:24 PM
Ok then it depends on how you drive. What do you call "daily driving".
Torana brakes aren't anything to write home about. Any "modern" car would be able to outbrake a torana. If it was up to me I'd save my penny's and buy a hopper's kit. If you have a couple more pennies and you are going to track your car buy datto's kit.
Torana brakes aren't anything to write home about. Any "modern" car would be able to outbrake a torana. If it was up to me I'd save my penny's and buy a hopper's kit. If you have a couple more pennies and you are going to track your car buy datto's kit.
#7
FastEHHolden
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Posted 10 November 2006 - 01:32 PM
Would another option be to us P76 brakes? That gives a ford pattern and use a ford BW78 on the back. I'm not up to speed on what needs to happen..whether its like bolting on HQ splindles and hubs or do you use an adapter on the LX axle to fit the P76 hub and disc onto.
Have you got knowledge in this area Chopper? Dattoman maybe? I seam to remember reading about this ages ago.
Have you got knowledge in this area Chopper? Dattoman maybe? I seam to remember reading about this ages ago.
#8
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Posted 10 November 2006 - 05:09 PM
P76 disc is 273 MM ( HQ is 279 MM ) diameter and same thicknes as HQ. So an HQ - WB caliper would be needed. I haven't tried it myself, but several people say that they "apparently" bolt straight on. CRS sell a kit for them to fit. Obviously one story isn't correct. If somebody could locate a worn out P76 disc, it could be answered very quickly once and for all. The P76 disc will give you Ford stud pattern and reduce front track by 1".
#9
FastEHHolden
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Posted 10 November 2006 - 06:00 PM
just found this..it adapts P76 disc to HQ stubs
on ebay finish tomorrow..not mine
on ebay finish tomorrow..not mine
Edited by FastEHHolden, 10 November 2006 - 06:01 PM.
#10
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Posted 10 November 2006 - 09:01 PM
That could well be the CRS kit. They mentioned something about some spacers, one between the bearing cups and I think some more for the caliper. This is all from memory from a phone call a couple of years ago, so I may not be 100% correct.
#11
_youngy_11_
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Posted 13 November 2006 - 10:50 AM
JBird i understand what ya saying, i had a quick look at this site Hoppers and probably will upgrade the brakes but that doesn't solve my stud pattern issue does it??
Also super good brakes aren't always the best as it increases the chance of lock ups.
Also super good brakes aren't always the best as it increases the chance of lock ups.
#12
_JBird_
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Posted 13 November 2006 - 12:07 PM
You can order hoppers kit in WHATEVER STUD PATTERN YOU WANT. You specify when you order, you could even get a nissan 5 stud pattern if you were so inclined.
Shit brakes also lock-up too. I don't know what you are getting at. If you had "super good" brakes you could use less brake pressure to stop at an equivalent distance ot "shit brakes at full stomp" ... So I would say it decreases the chance of a lock up. And you would probably only worry about a lock up if you were swerving around something, or the rears lock (in which case you would face the other way quick). I'd rather good brakes because even if they did lock up I would have stopped 20m before the "shit brakes" and not have to swerve.
J
Shit brakes also lock-up too. I don't know what you are getting at. If you had "super good" brakes you could use less brake pressure to stop at an equivalent distance ot "shit brakes at full stomp" ... So I would say it decreases the chance of a lock up. And you would probably only worry about a lock up if you were swerving around something, or the rears lock (in which case you would face the other way quick). I'd rather good brakes because even if they did lock up I would have stopped 20m before the "shit brakes" and not have to swerve.
J
#13
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Posted 13 November 2006 - 07:08 PM
If you suffer from brake lock up, get some decent tyres.
"But I can't afford to spend $400 MORE on a set of tyres" I hear.
If you can't stop in time, I can guarentee it will cost you a lot more than $400. Especially if you kill somebody. I still recall very vividly how I hit an 8 year old girl because I couldn't stop in time when doing 20 KPH. There is no such thing as a safe speed.
"But I can't afford to spend $400 MORE on a set of tyres" I hear.
If you can't stop in time, I can guarentee it will cost you a lot more than $400. Especially if you kill somebody. I still recall very vividly how I hit an 8 year old girl because I couldn't stop in time when doing 20 KPH. There is no such thing as a safe speed.
#14
_youngy_11_
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Posted 13 November 2006 - 07:26 PM
Yes very true. I can see where both of yours are coming from.
OK thats good about the hoppers kits im preety sure i will spend the extra and go with one of those will be less hassel, safer and easier for the engineer to pass the blue slip.
thanks guys
youngy
OK thats good about the hoppers kits im preety sure i will spend the extra and go with one of those will be less hassel, safer and easier for the engineer to pass the blue slip.
thanks guys
youngy
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