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Spark Plug Leads

Started by _CHOPPER_ , Dec 26 2005 08:54 PM

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41 replies to this topic

#26 _82911_

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Posted 02 January 2006 - 07:50 PM

^^ Chop... that's dry!!!!

You crack me up!! :clap:

Cheers Greg..

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#27 _[BOTTLEDUP]_

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Posted 02 January 2006 - 08:03 PM

Thanks for the suggestion about using speaker wire for spark plug leads. I might try that one day after several beers.

Snort some crack first too Chopp... That'll make it seem better, or faster or louder whichever one blows your hair back... :spoton:

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#28 GML-31

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Posted 02 January 2006 - 08:44 PM

if you are shielding wires with rubber check on the carbon content first as some rubber like epdm can be conductive.

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#29 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 02 January 2006 - 08:56 PM

There is no such thing as a perfect insulator, just some are better at not letting much through than others. Ie , enough current can pass through slabs of rubber to fry you if struck by lightening. Seen those shots of rubber shoes burnt through?
Same thing with spark wires. You can get shocks if you handle them while the motor is going, a few mms of rubber isnt enough to insulate against 30000V or so, but generally good enough to stop it arcing to metal around the motor.

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#30 Tiny

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Posted 02 January 2006 - 10:25 PM

Ive managed to grab all my spark plug wires ( those magnecors) while running on my MSD 6A system... Ive only ever gotten a shock (Twice damnit!) from the coil lead which is not a magnecor!

Anyway.. thats my subjective testing.. and i will say one thing... Silicone insulated UHVDLC ( neon) cable makes EXCELLENT leads.. dont ask me about interfearance shielding though

BOTTLEDUP: Ive got a magnecor lead that ive burnt the boot on ( 90degree boot at the spark plug end), and i wonder if it would be possible to change the boot easily? Would i need to cut off the connector to get the boot on/off? It doesnt seem to want to come off as it is! Or... i may just buy a set from you... ( though i might specify some lengths as a couple of mine are tight! and my coil lead is long due to being hidden in the dash ( dont ask!) )

Cheers

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#31 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 02 January 2006 - 10:44 PM

Ive managed to grab all my spark plug wires ( those magnecors) while running on my MSD 6A system... Ive only ever gotten a shock (Twice damnit!) from the coil lead which is not a magnecor!

Anyway.. thats my subjective testing..

Id say thats some quite objective testing there Tiny(although we need to know were you leaning on a fender, footwear etc) Not that it would make any difference to whether you got a shock or not, why were you holding all the leads at once? Glad they do put more insulation on those leads.
Sounds like you were auditioning for mythbusters or something.
must admit I have only been zapped once, on an old car with 25+ year old leads, but that was enough to make me very careful not to touch any leads while a motor was running again!

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#32 Tiny

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 08:58 AM

I think i was wearing safety boots ( double bungers) and yes leaning on the guard!

I only grabbed them one at a time but the coil lead was the bitey one.

The reason behind it.... The car was "running on" after we installed the new altenator... I didnt know but even with the ignition switch off it acted like a magneto and ran! Pulling the coil lead was the only way to kill it!

Anyway.. enough of my laughs... Back to the topic!

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#33 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 09:31 AM

Tiny: Only way to kill it? painful - cut power to coil or fuel pump?
Fender leaner, perhaps circuit completed there, though its possible that can go through ground alone (feet to tyres), perhaps someone can try this out for background knowledge.
ive actually got a spark lead removing tool, cost me 6 or $7, bit superfluous for most applications, but its handy for getting recessed plugs out without pulling on the leads and good for disconnecting and reconnecting leads while the motor is running (for those on the spot cylinder balance tests) There is a big chance of getting zapped if you pull a lead of by the boot with the motor going. Supposedly this tool is made completely of high insulative plastic, pliers with insulated grips will still zap you with 30000V.

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#34 _MAWLER_

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 09:50 PM

ICE run well on my car, you can contact them in Melbourne Chop, but if you want an independant opinion then talk to Jerry at Ignition Torque I think his factory is in Bayswater and see what he provides/recomends. He is one bloke who knows what he's talking about, been doing it for more than 20 years that I know of.

Peace,

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#35 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 10:24 PM

I have known Jerry@Ignition Torque for several years. Just happen to be driving past his shop in Bayfield Rd. today. He was shut, but at least I found him. I lost track of him after he moved from Croydon.

If you are shielding wires with rubber check on the carbon content first as some rubber like epdm can be conductive.

Never thought of that. However, the idea is simply to keep the leads a bit further away from any metal. I'm using 3/4" heater hose as a shiels ATM, that way I also get an air gap between the plug wires and the heater hose. It may not 100% prevent it from happening again, but it should at least reduce the chances.

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#36 _[BOTTLEDUP]_

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 01:37 AM

BOTTLEDUP: Ive got a magnecor lead that ive burnt the boot on ( 90degree boot at the spark plug end), and i wonder if it would be possible to change the boot easily? Would i need to cut off the connector to get the boot on/off? It doesnt seem to want to come off as it is! Or... i may just buy a set from you... ( though i might specify some lengths as a couple of mine are tight! and my coil lead is long due to being hidden in the dash ( dont ask!) )

Cheers

No drama's Tiny, they are possible to change (the boots that is). It's also possible to get what the manufacturer's call 'High Temp' boots, which are a reddish colour. We use them for tight engine bays, LPG and turbo applications.

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#37 Tiny

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 10:44 AM

,Jan 4 2006, 02:37 AM] No drama's Tiny, they are possible to change (the boots that is). It's also possible to get what the manufacturer's call 'High Temp' boots, which are a reddish colour. We use them for tight engine bays, LPG and turbo applications.

Thanks for that dave, My magnecors are the 8Mm red leads wit red boots.. i dont know if these are the high temp ones you speak of or if they were just made to suit the lead colour.. but touching the pipe certainly burnt it!

Anyway..

That was a question i was meaning to ask... My Brother is having a MAJOR problem with melting his ignition leads on his TT308 VR Commdore. If you see hs engine bay you'll understand why, but suffice it to say that there is NO room and he;s running individual coil packs and very short leads.

What's happening is even though he put the lead in -8 Firesleve The piping near the wastegate is burning right through the fire sleve and lead.. He lost one lead previously ( dont recall which cylinder) and after fixing that and a few other problems he's now totally cremated Lead no 5.

The pipe work is ceramic coated AND wrapped with fibregalss heat shield tape, but it still burns right through the firesleve and the lead!

Is there anything that you know of that may help us out in this situation? Its like a 3 day adventure to get to the bloody plugs ( and therefor leads) undoing half the engine bay its all packed in so tight!

Thanks again mate.
Tiny.

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#38 _[BOTTLEDUP]_

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Posted 05 January 2006 - 01:23 PM

Sell the car... That sounds like more of a head ache than it's worth...

There are a few different versions of heat wraps both for the leads and piping, but obviously dependant on space and time requirements you run what you can.

Is there enough room to fit a couple of sheilds in? Even a small piece of sheet metal will improve the situation considerably.

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#39 Tiny

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Posted 05 January 2006 - 04:18 PM

Yeah... not really.. LOL

Thats what i recommended but he's going to try and re-route the wires...

Thanks anyhow

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#40 _Jewboy_

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 10:33 AM

Have you looked through the summit racing catalogue, i remember seeing some silver reflective stuff that that goes on the leads and plugs, supposed to handle huge temps.

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#41 Tiny

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 11:41 AM

Thanks Jewy, yeah have seen that stuff and might have to give that a go! We thought that the fire sleeve that goes over fuel lines and the like would be just as good if not better! Guess not!

Cheers.