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burnout/drift torana


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#26 _RpM_

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Posted 29 June 2006 - 10:34 PM

G'day guys,
I'm new to the site, and this thread caught my eye. i have a few points to add.
I work in motorsport, and have worked on many race cars from many different race series, including 4 of the top 10 cars in the Drift Australia series.
The extenders for your steering are a must. I have made these for a lot of cars and they work a treat!!

In my opinion, you first of all need to chose one or the other. Burnouts or Drifting, because the set-ups are very very different. I have set my ute up for burnout comps and i have done fairly well with it (2nd place last comp) and believe me, it doesnt drift haha.


Burnout Car - You do not need massive horsepower to win a burnout competition. Dont go crazy building a sh*t-hot motor for a burnout car. Chances are, you'll blow a motor or two in the Burnout Comp world... So you dont wanna spend lots and lots of money, on something that's going to go bang a few months later, right?
My ute is a v6, it has a bit over standard horsepower for a Commodore V6, and as i said, came second in the last comp against Carbi 308s, 355 strokers etc...
Blowers and a/m induction for a burnout car looks good and sounds good, but they require alot of attention and alot of $$$ to keep them in condition to do 2 or 3 skids in the one night (Qualify + finals etc... )
Set it up with some stiff suspension all around, take the weight out of the back, run an auto gearbox over a manual, and remember that when your car is driving at high speed with high revs you have wind contributing to cooling the car, when you're rippin hellies, you dont have that, so huge cooling is a must.


Drift Car
Easy, stiffen EVERYTHING up... Big stiff springs, stiff shocks, braces across everything. Strut braces and support braces. Keep it low, but not so low you bottom out and rip your sump out onto the track.
DO NOT TUB A DRIFT CAR ...
Find yourself a good machine shop who can help you with your steering lock extenders, and as the others have said, no power steering. You wont need it with wheelspin, and it's just one more pump to worry about breaking.
Chose your tyres carefully, dont go rock solid compound, but dont run street slicks like i have seen some people do, it only ends in upset.
Go a manual box over an auto, big heavy clutch and lock the diff. Dont spend lots on a spool diff or anything, just weld up the center you have.


Sorry for the long post, it probably bounces all over the place, but feel free to PM me if it doesnt make sense. hehe.

Cheers.

RpM


EDIT -- Forgot to add, i am currently building my LJ into a burnout comp car for summernats / supernats / powercruise and the likes. If you decide to take that road, and need any help with setting the car up, give me a yell and i will see if i can give you a hand.

Edited by RpM, 29 June 2006 - 10:36 PM.


#27 Gump

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Posted 30 June 2006 - 06:42 PM

i rekon use i forklift sterring wheel. only have to hold on to the knob. makes steering easyer

#28 _chevy_253_torana_

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 02:28 PM

other options are bigblocking it and using cubes to get the power mate of mine has a camaro with over 800hp spins wheels 1st 2nd 3rd 4th all the way getting its traction problems solved now but should run high 9s

#29 _blown350_

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 04:29 PM

someone always has to suggest a big block! I WISH! but wouldn it make it abit too heavy up front. i just watched dukes of hazzard for the fifth time and i love all the stunts in that especially when hes drifting round the round-a-bout! if the general lee can do it a torana can! anyway with the manual box for drifting, what would be the best box, would the supra r154 or tremec be able to cope with constant clutch dumping and are heavy duty or puk stlye clutches easy to get for them? id imagine the supra would have more after market parts available? also would converting to hydrolic be a good idea, though ive heard alot of people having problems with hydrolic setups in their torries so im not too keen on them?

#30 _Passage_GT_

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Posted 07 September 2006 - 02:24 AM

love the idea of a torana drifting
as mentioned earlier you'll be breaking new ground so there will be heaps of trial and error
the jappers also have a general advantage in the base suspension setups they come with standard (irs etc)
however the ever popular ae86 sprinters are a live axle rear end and drift really well
i wouldn't discount using a japper motor either
but not neccesarily an rb30 or twin cam rb
a 1uz toyo or vh41/45 nissan quad cam v8 would be very suitable
they pump out 206kw dead stock and can cost as little as 1500 for an entire front cut which includes all wiring, computers and everything else
only problem is they're auto only so you'd have to adapt a manual gbox to it which has been done a few times before
add a small capa style blower to it and you got easy 300+ rwhp
more than enough for drifting
i know of a nissan patrol using a vh41, only mods being exhaust and a computer
made 265rwhp through large patrol gbox (it's still 4x4) and diffs
keeps us posted on your progress

#31 myss427

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Posted 11 September 2006 - 05:17 PM

Got a big block in mine, and the weight of the car is 1380kgs, that include 9inch and glide. So you can make them lite. Just use a shit load of aluminium and dollars, and you will end up with a drift or burnout car. Traction is my biggest problem.

#32 _curlys torana_

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Posted 11 September 2006 - 09:01 PM

drift cars use quick lock type things that make it lock to lock in 1 and a bit turns and a v8 will give you really good torque but a 6 supercharged may not give you the torque that you will need and you will need a really tight rear suspension.
now with burnouts you not going to win nothing with a 6 even a superchardged one but with a v8 you will have a better chance of winning and will have a lot more fun.and in a burnout you wont need power steering because the spinning of the car makes it really easy.




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