gday all,
tonite my uni joints died yet again. Its happened several times.
What i mean by died is there is a terrible vibration from under the car and last time when the uni joints were replaced it went away. However my car seems to like devouring them. I am just wondering if people can suggest what I am doing wrong.
I think the 2nd lot of uni joints died from not being pumped full of grease.
But these ones... No idea.
Its a LJ running stock 173, Celica 5 speed (was M20) and a 3.36 Banjo diff.
Steve
Uni Joint problems
Started by
_73LJWhiteSL_
, Dec 01 2006 10:41 PM
14 replies to this topic
#2
tinkers
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Posted 01 December 2006 - 11:24 PM
You sure the problem isnt in the tailshaft and as a result the uni's are being chewed?
#3
Heath
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Posted 01 December 2006 - 11:33 PM
^ Are you suggesting like an imbalance which would be promoting excessive wear?
Steve, the tailshaft in it atm would be a brand spanker wouldn't it?
Steve, the tailshaft in it atm would be a brand spanker wouldn't it?
#4
rodomo
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Posted 01 December 2006 - 11:36 PM
Uni wear is directly proportional to your right foot you rev headI think the 2nd lot of uni joints died from not being pumped full of grease.
But these ones... No idea.
#5
_Oldn64_
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Posted 01 December 2006 - 11:36 PM
Try recentring you uni's first you might find that with the car being lowered and the new gearbox that the angle with which they now run are not ideal.
Cheers
PS: I would also put more grease in them seeing you will be under the car already..
Cheers
PS: I would also put more grease in them seeing you will be under the car already..
#6
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Posted 01 December 2006 - 11:38 PM
Just cos something is "new" doesnt always mean it is working perfectly.
And yes, I had the same problem in one of my hatches, problem was the tailshift wasnt balanced.
And yes, I had the same problem in one of my hatches, problem was the tailshift wasnt balanced.
#7
surfmaster
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Posted 02 December 2006 - 12:30 AM
I would check the alignment of the transmission with the diff and as said above that the angles are not to severe. Is there excessive movement where the yoke enters the extension housing on the box - i.e. is it sloppy and allowing excess movement?
#8
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 02 December 2006 - 08:45 AM
When i converted to the Celica 5 speed a few months back it was necessary for the tailshaft to be shortened and balenced, so i am pretty sure the tailshaft is balenced.
The car has been lowered for 2 or 3 years... long before i started having this problem. And it has happened with two different gearboxes. What is recentreing unis?
Fair call. I have had brand new things die on me. I might just take the tailshaft, or the uni joints that i'm about to replace, to the tailshaft joint that shortened my tailshaft and ask them whats causing the failure, or get them to double check my tailshaft.
So how do i check the alignment of the tailshaft with the diff? With a straight piece of wood or something? I don't think the angle are too severe from memory.
Steve
Try recentring you uni's first you might find that with the car being lowered and the new gearbox that the angle with which they now run are not ideal.
The car has been lowered for 2 or 3 years... long before i started having this problem. And it has happened with two different gearboxes. What is recentreing unis?
Just cos something is "new" doesnt always mean it is working perfectly.
Fair call. I have had brand new things die on me. I might just take the tailshaft, or the uni joints that i'm about to replace, to the tailshaft joint that shortened my tailshaft and ask them whats causing the failure, or get them to double check my tailshaft.
So how do i check the alignment of the tailshaft with the diff? With a straight piece of wood or something? I don't think the angle are too severe from memory.
Steve
#9
Tiny
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Posted 02 December 2006 - 09:37 AM
When we set up my gearbox to diff alignment, the gearbox guy showed me the location teh gearbox should be in... we had to make a spacer to raise teh rear of the box! Dont ask me how he knew where it should be though!
We then set the diff pinion angle using adjustable upper control arms to -3 degrees to allow for some pinion climb during hard acceleration. We set this with an inclinometer.. Basically a protractor with a spirit level to get the angle we needed across the yoke's face.
If you car's chewing unis i'd suggest that your alignment is out one way or another.. Checking the diff isnt hard if you can buy one of those guages ( i dont *think* theyre terribly expensive) and then you could check the gearbox yoke the same way i guess!
Also when tightening unis dont overtighten them, ive been warned ( cause i dont know my own strength sometimes) that you can crimp the cup and stuff the uni really quickly if you over tighten the U bolts!
Good luck mate!
We then set the diff pinion angle using adjustable upper control arms to -3 degrees to allow for some pinion climb during hard acceleration. We set this with an inclinometer.. Basically a protractor with a spirit level to get the angle we needed across the yoke's face.
If you car's chewing unis i'd suggest that your alignment is out one way or another.. Checking the diff isnt hard if you can buy one of those guages ( i dont *think* theyre terribly expensive) and then you could check the gearbox yoke the same way i guess!
Also when tightening unis dont overtighten them, ive been warned ( cause i dont know my own strength sometimes) that you can crimp the cup and stuff the uni really quickly if you over tighten the U bolts!
Good luck mate!
#10
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Posted 02 December 2006 - 10:34 AM
G'day steve,
Mate while u r under there,just check engine&paricularly rear g'box mount have'nt failed causing very similar vibration. If it is uni's again, I'm with the others^^,check 4 bad allignment. If your tail shaft is unballanced enough to cause rapid uni wear, you should have noticed a high speed vibration all along...i would have thought anyway. Good luck
Mate while u r under there,just check engine&paricularly rear g'box mount have'nt failed causing very similar vibration. If it is uni's again, I'm with the others^^,check 4 bad allignment. If your tail shaft is unballanced enough to cause rapid uni wear, you should have noticed a high speed vibration all along...i would have thought anyway. Good luck
#11
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 02 December 2006 - 10:38 AM
Well.... The problem wasn't my unis... I got dropped off at my mates parents place, and my mates dad pointed at my back passenger wheel and said, "I Think thats your problem."
I only had one nut holding the rear passenger wheel on.
So either someone has tried to steal my wheels, Or else i didn't make sure i did them up tight enough. Somehow the locknut is missing, so i gotta buy a new set of lock nuts. But it could have been a lot worse. Thankfully i didn't lose a wheel on the freeway, that could have been really bad.
I grab another nut of each wheel so i have 4 nuts on each wheel at the moment, so i am just about to head out to buy 4 more wheel nuts, and mabe i might get lucky and find the locknut, else i will have to buy another set.
Steve
I only had one nut holding the rear passenger wheel on.
So either someone has tried to steal my wheels, Or else i didn't make sure i did them up tight enough. Somehow the locknut is missing, so i gotta buy a new set of lock nuts. But it could have been a lot worse. Thankfully i didn't lose a wheel on the freeway, that could have been really bad.
I grab another nut of each wheel so i have 4 nuts on each wheel at the moment, so i am just about to head out to buy 4 more wheel nuts, and mabe i might get lucky and find the locknut, else i will have to buy another set.
Steve
#12
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Posted 02 December 2006 - 10:54 AM
Sheit!! Well that vibration certainly isnt unis!!
Glad you found it before anything worse happened!
Glad you found it before anything worse happened!
#13
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Posted 02 December 2006 - 11:01 AM
Sheeze!!! I'd grab a lotto ticket if i were you steve!! 
#14
_Oldn64_
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Posted 02 December 2006 - 12:13 PM
Firstly the first of unis went due to old age, teh second set was due to mismanagement/care, this set is when the tailshaft got shortened. not when I was at school and di triangles you could nto can one side and keep the same on the other two side, thus the angles must have changed. This is also why sometimes teh m20's fail behind EH's as people do not mount them properly. Again it comes down to being careful when converting anything.The car has been lowered for 2 or 3 years... long before i started having this problem. And it has happened with two different gearboxes. What is recentreing unis?
I am glad you found the problem. I am happy nothign got damaged.
Cheers
PS: Above post a little trivial seeing that you have been able to get the issue known and resolved.
#15
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Posted 02 December 2006 - 12:26 PM
Wheel nuts falling off is directly proportional to your right foot you rev head.I only had one nut holding the rear passenger wheel on.
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