lh brake problems
Started by
_fathr6_
, Dec 26 2006 05:53 PM
21 replies to this topic
#1
_fathr6_
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Posted 26 December 2006 - 05:53 PM
My lh 6 is still pulling to the left under brakes. It locks the front left way too easily. I have changed rotors, calipers, brake lines, proportioning valve and blown out the steel brake lines. Im thinking master cylinder, booster is the only thing left after that. Also, can I fit a dual diaphragm booster for more braking power, without other mods?
#2
rodomo
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Posted 26 December 2006 - 06:09 PM
If you drive along a flat road and let go of the steering wheel, does it pull left without using the brakes?
#3
_fathr6_
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Posted 26 December 2006 - 07:34 PM
Nope, had a wheel alignment done.If you drive along a flat road and let go of the steering wheel, does it pull left without using the brakes?
#4
_DocDamage_
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Posted 26 December 2006 - 08:46 PM
Master cylinder/booster won't cause a left to right imbalance, double diaphragm will bolt straight up but doesn't increase braking power, just reduces braking effort.
#5
rodomo
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Posted 26 December 2006 - 11:16 PM
With the wheels off the ground is the left harder to rotate than the right?
Do your tyres have flat spots or delamination?
Do your tyres have flat spots or delamination?
#7
_fathr6_
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Posted 27 December 2006 - 07:47 AM
It has new tyres on the front with newly packed and adjusted wheel bearings
#8
davelh
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Posted 27 December 2006 - 08:19 AM
just because something is new, doesnt mean it isnt #@$^%&
i would check them again
it only takes a split second for something to break
cheers
dave
i would check them again
it only takes a split second for something to break
cheers
dave
#9
_Rob 5000_
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Posted 27 December 2006 - 09:52 AM
Keep in mind that coz the brakes are deployed via fluid that when pressure is applied to a fluid its spread evenly throughout the fluid. So changing the booster will have no affect. Fluid doesnt press harder on one side than the other. I think rodo is on the money by looking at the alignment or tyres. To test this out swap the front tyres go for a spin and see what happens. I think straight away you will get a strong indicaiton of where the problem really is. Quite often a lot of alignment probs are in the tyre. I worked for 5yrs doing alignments and tyres are often the root of all the probs. Good luck.
#10
_fathr6_
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Posted 27 December 2006 - 06:00 PM
It doesn't so much as pull to the left, but grab the left too hard. If you do a hard stop at speed it is OK. When the speed decreases the left will lock up. At carpark speeds it is very noticable. Very touchy. In the wet it is almost undrivable, the left will lock at the slightest brake application.
#11
rodomo
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Posted 27 December 2006 - 09:45 PM
Maybe the right isn't working too good? You say you have changed calipers but were they recoed? Hoses have been know to deteriorate inside and can block when brakes applied starving pressure to a particular wheel.
#12
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 27 December 2006 - 10:43 PM
You haven't listed the brake pads?I have changed rotors, calipers, brake lines, proportioning valve and blown out the steel brake lines. Im thinking master cylinder, booster is the only thing left after that.
#13
Peterpilot
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Posted 27 December 2006 - 11:40 PM
I agree, the last time I had a Torana that pulled to the left under brakes I found the right caliper had seized.Maybe the right isn't working too good? You say you have changed calipers but were they recoed? Hoses have been know to deteriorate inside and can block when brakes applied starving pressure to a particular wheel.
I would suggest that there may be a problem with the right side not braking sufficiently... or at all...
#14
_fathr6_
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Posted 28 December 2006 - 08:09 AM
I did reco both calipers with new pads. When I changed the lines I had the same problem, then I changed the calipers with still the same problem. The brake system is completly different form the master cylinder forward and I still have the same problem. It didn't get better or worse.
#15
_rorym_
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Posted 28 December 2006 - 11:07 AM
Go to the wreckers or get a LH caliper and try it..If it is the same you have eliminated one theory. I am leaning towards the right being the problem tho as well.
R
R
#16
_fathr6_
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Posted 28 December 2006 - 04:55 PM
Yup, done that on the calipers, lines and proportioning valve. Still have the same problem. I think it is time for a professional
#17
_torana_
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Posted 28 December 2006 - 05:34 PM
jack the front of the car up and with help from a friend press the brakes hard and see if you can spin the front and back wheels ( may have to use a socket on the studs / or remove wheel and use a crowbar between the studs ) If you havent got a friend use a length of wood jammed against your seat and check the wheels. My bet is one caliper is not working , or a steel line is crimped/crushed somewhere or there is air still in a calliper.
Tell us how you go.
cheers julian
Tell us how you go.
cheers julian
#19
dattoman
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Posted 28 December 2006 - 06:55 PM
check suspension bushes and shocks too
#20
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 28 December 2006 - 11:11 PM
Sounds like a line from a James Taylor song............If you havent got a friend use a length of wood jammed against your seat and check the wheels.
Just as a tid bit, having to regularly check the brake lights when attaching a trailer to the UC, instead of jamming a friend or piece of wood between the pedal and the seat(this can be tricky), I stick something like the head of a holden key or a fuse between the arm/leg of the brake pedal and the bracket up near where the brake lamp switch is to hold the pedal down. Im sure the bracket here would be strong enough to hold something if you pushed the pedal down very hard.
In relation to the brake prob, a weakened front suspension could cause it to veer left under braking, though Im not sure how that could explain how the wheel may lock up easier.
Something to shed more light on it, what happens when you do it in reverse? Does it lock up, which way does it veer?
#21
TerrA LX
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Posted 28 December 2006 - 11:27 PM
less weight over one wheel (suspension not bearing) would cause that paticular wheel to lock up, but i dont think this is the problem, if you changed all the hoses, new pads and reco the calipers then check your pipe lines, they are around 30 odd yr old. maybe one has been crushed a bit in an engine change some time.
but if your shocks, bushes and or springs are worn, change them anyway, i cant stand my fathers view on cars, its like well its going and i dont drive like you do, its not the point, why drive a car, especially a torry, and not maintain it.
but if your shocks, bushes and or springs are worn, change them anyway, i cant stand my fathers view on cars, its like well its going and i dont drive like you do, its not the point, why drive a car, especially a torry, and not maintain it.
#22
_SS Hatchback_
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Posted 04 January 2007 - 10:34 PM
Im guessing right calipers not working , definately lift the front and check it , i would be surprised if that wasnt your problem, then again i surprise easily
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