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Motor electrics, 6cy


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#1 _UCV80_

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Posted 01 January 2006 - 11:11 PM

going to kick the engine in my uc over in the next 2 days...

just a few questions

i have wired up the electrics like this, a wire running from battery then through switch then to + on the coil, then a wire from electric dizzy to + on coil (pink wire), and another wire from dizzy to - on coil (green)

the coil heats up when switch is on and makes crackle noises?? this is an electric coil, with a resister coming from the + of the coil... i have another coil without the resiter avaliable.. anyone had this problem?


also there is 2 yellow wires one with a black stripe, how do i hook these up to coil which one goes where, just so i dont make a mistake..

have been moving house so im pretty slack on the torana at the moment.... going to get back into it and finish off soon..

thanx heaps :D

:rockon:

#2 _Loki_

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Posted 02 January 2006 - 01:33 AM

I have a complete diagram, if I can figure some way of getting it to you i will.
Digital cam over a 2-3 closeups then digitally stitched together on the computer might work a treat?
Then you can just bang it out on a printer and have it with you under the bonnet.

Will try the camera idea tomorrow for you.

#3 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 02 January 2006 - 04:34 PM

Testing procedures for electronic coil modules indicate that a fault is present if 12V isnt observed on the -ve side of the coil when 12V is applied to the +ve and the dizzy isnt spinning.
You appear to have this condition, as you have a current flowing through the coil. Based on your description of your connections and the above, the fault is in the dizzy module.
Electric coil?, arent they all, is it a cylinder with a male connector on the top?

yellow wire with black stripe isnt part of a uc ignition circuit, dont know what it is.
The plain yell wire is part of your wire from the ignition switch and should be connected to the +ve of the coil, but it will have a resistance wire in it when it is the ign/on position, whether you have to worry about this will depend on what coil you have.

#4 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 02 January 2006 - 06:07 PM

have given the issue ^ some more thought, fitted with an electronic dizzy, perhaps someone changed the ign to 12V before? This can be tested easily, get a normal coil and hook the yell wire to the +ve of coil and -ve to ground. Measure the voltage across coil, if it is 8-9V, resistance wire in place. The yell/black wire suggests someone may have put a 12 V bypass wire in. Trace back where this wire goes.

While Im on topic, I have a simple procedure for bypassing the resistance wire for full voltage ign. This has been done many times on the old forum, but it involved either a relay or dropping the steering column to get at the switch.
This procedure is simple,no compromise, cheap(about $1 in wire),bombproof and reversible; back to points in an instant.
On the fuse panel of all old holdens(which is easy to get at, i think im correct in saying all), there is a thick pink wire, top right in pic below.(the pic of the connector shows where the thick pink wire attaches to the pink resistance wire.
Attach a wire of suitable gauge to run all the way to the +ve of the coil from the thick pink wire at the fuse panel. If you wish to be cautious a fuse can be placed in this line, but something the original circuit isnt protected for either.
Leave the existing yell wire attached to the coil, (it will be needed in the starting circuit). That is all there is that needs to be done. Obviously if needing to go back to points dizzy, disconnect the wire that you have added at the coil.
Posted Image
Posted Image

Edited by devilsadvocate, 02 January 2006 - 06:10 PM.


#5 _T0rana_

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 05:56 PM

hey,bit of a late reply, but no internet lately

i have changed the coil and dizzy and all is good.... the coil that was getting hot actually cracked open.. that must of been the loud cracking noisesi heard..

tried ages to get this engine too run and am having a few problems...
with a very powerful battery its cranking over very slow, tried another battery and the same problem..... the battery is mounted in the boot with a thick - cable going into the boot wall and thick + cable running through a big tough switch then too the starter motor.... is this all ok? also i have a - cable running from the head to the chasis of the car but its not very thick... any idea anyone had this problem before... its a very tough 202 black engine

thanx for the pics but my wireing loom smoked up so i cant use the pink wire.... i have another wire to give power too the coil though.

timming all set up,tried moving it around... when it does spark there is a big bang and flames out the extractors.. have used this dizzy before and worked well,it is a electric one... dizzy cap looks perfect. gave it alight sand and a new rotor.... i think the problemis that its not cranking fast enough. (REally slow)

thanx for the reply's
cheers
nathan

#6 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 08:00 PM

Does sound like perhaps youve got some voltage loss problems. Basically it doesnt matter how many 12V truck batteries you wire up in parallel, if the lead is too long the voltage loss will still occur with the high current req by the starter, perhaps your switch is a source too. The lead going from the head to the chassis, needs to be just as thick as the other leads too. Perhaps just connect the battery via short leads to see what happnes.

#7 _T0rana_

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 09:54 PM

cheers mate cant wait to try it again... ill use shorter leads to test and a thick earth cabel from head.. see how it goes :spoton:

anyone had this problem?, im sure there is heaps of boot installs


thanx,
nathan

this is toranaz, just on pink lh to save swapping logins

#8 _draglc_

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 11:25 PM

when it does spark there is a big bang and flames out the extractors..

backfiring means dizzy is 180 degrees out.




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