G'day Guys,
I'm having a new 6M x 9M Colourbond shed (3 car style) built in my backyard in the next few weeks and I'm looking for some ideas on how to lay it out and set-up things to maximise the amount of room I have in there to not only store my crap but be able to get some work done without having to empty it first!!
I need to house 2 project cars (LC and a morris mini) and my spares & tools (large tool boxes,big compressor,couple of welders,blasting cabinet etc), I'm thinking of buying some lengths of steel to build some shelves and a tyre rack etc, eventually I wouldn't mind squeezing in a small office in a corner too.
I'd also like to find out some options for quietening the place to so I don't piss off my neighbours or my Wife for that matter too. I normally do bodywork, fabrication, resto style stuff so equipment can get a little loud.
I'm on a tight budget (shed prices seem to have gone up since I last built one) but am capable to do most work myself. Economical Ideas are the best but I'd also like it to look Semi-professional too as I like to take a little pride in what I do.
All ideas welcome and would love to see some examples too if people are willing to show their shed insides (email me if you prefer)
Thanks guys!!
New Shed Layout and Ideas??
Started by
_Pete_
, Jan 28 2007 02:44 PM
38 replies to this topic
#2
_micksgtr_
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 02:53 PM
one thing i have found that is a great idea, have some 15amp power outlets installed, having 10amp plugs can restrict you a lot when your buying some machines. If you ever buy a decent welder or drill or lathe its great to by able to get the 15amp stuff, lasts a lot longer and they all have bigger power outputs. Also try and have them so that if your using the welder or something else its no more than say 15meters from the outlet, you will get a lot of current drain in extension leads!!!
not sure where your located, but if you want to look at getting any machines, i work for a large power transmission company and one side of the business is engineering supplies. we can freight all over australia and all the guys who have bought things from me off this site have got them at cost.
let me no if i can help you out mate!!
cheers
not sure where your located, but if you want to look at getting any machines, i work for a large power transmission company and one side of the business is engineering supplies. we can freight all over australia and all the guys who have bought things from me off this site have got them at cost.
let me no if i can help you out mate!!
cheers
#3
_RpM_
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 02:59 PM
I dont know about sound proofing, but way back when I was doing my HSC, one of the guys in my Design and Tech class made a sound proof room for his brand to practice in at home, and they lined the walls with Egg-Cartons and Paper Mache.. apparently it cut out 70% of the noise.. not sure how you could make that look semi professional though hehe.. Anyway for the lay out, if you only have 2 cars for a 3 car garage, put the projects in either end ones, and make your work area the middle one. Work bench at the back, shelves at the front, desk/cabinets in the middle (but with room to move around them without having to go outside, obviously). That would be how I would go about it, so that you dont mix up parts / tools between the two jobs. Just my suggestion.
Anywho, here's my hidey-hole... I'm going down there later tonight to have a huge tidy up in there... But it serves quite well, especially with a beer fridge :-)
As you can see in mine, the cars all have vinyl strips taped down under them, leaves the concrete perfect underneath and can be mopped / hosed if they get oily or greasey. All the vinyl you can see there cost me $50 from a junk shop, plus 8 rolls of cloth tape.. works wonders!
Anywho, here's my hidey-hole... I'm going down there later tonight to have a huge tidy up in there... But it serves quite well, especially with a beer fridge :-)
As you can see in mine, the cars all have vinyl strips taped down under them, leaves the concrete perfect underneath and can be mopped / hosed if they get oily or greasey. All the vinyl you can see there cost me $50 from a junk shop, plus 8 rolls of cloth tape.. works wonders!
Edited by RpM, 28 January 2007 - 03:00 PM.
#4
_LH SL/R 5000_
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 03:03 PM
I'm just about to start with a new shed myself, either 7.5x6 or 9x6. In my old 7.5x6 I ran water out and had a deep double trough, it was great. Another thing I will be doing with my new shed is installing a loft for storage, it is amazing the amout of crap that you accumulate with kids.
I have a similar amount of gear to house, including a small lathe so the correct set-up from the start is necessary. I am going to use some graph paper and draw to scale the shed and equipment, cars etc and move everything around until I can fit everything in and still have space to work, it is the easiest way I know to try and sort out where you wants things to go without having to move them around in your shed.
Just an idea.
I have a similar amount of gear to house, including a small lathe so the correct set-up from the start is necessary. I am going to use some graph paper and draw to scale the shed and equipment, cars etc and move everything around until I can fit everything in and still have space to work, it is the easiest way I know to try and sort out where you wants things to go without having to move them around in your shed.
Just an idea.
#5
_tassietorrie_
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 03:04 PM
gday mate,my advice,DIG A PIT.if i had to build a shed again,a pit would be first on the list,good for working underneath cars,and a good storage space when not in use.mate has one in his 3 car garage,and he stores the stuff he dont use in it when its not in use.very handy.Good place to hide when you forget the mrs's birthday too,so im told 
#6
_LH SL/R 5000_
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 03:07 PM
Another thing I will do is paint the floor before moving anything in as it makes cleaning up easy an stops the cement dust from flying around.
In my last shed I had plenty of doulbe 10 and 15 amp outlets put in, you can never have too many.
Another thing I am going to do is run a 3 phase cable out just incase I decide to get 3 phase equipment (car hoist) latter on.
In my last shed I had plenty of doulbe 10 and 15 amp outlets put in, you can never have too many.
Another thing I am going to do is run a 3 phase cable out just incase I decide to get 3 phase equipment (car hoist) latter on.
#7
_rorym_
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 03:16 PM
Being in the building industry..I can assure you sheds have gone up...steel has risen by 70% in the last 18 months as the Chinese are buying every single bit we can produce!
R
R
#8
arrimar
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 03:17 PM
i used to work on the endevour foundations prize homes. fell in love with epoxy floored garages.
plenty of ventilation is a must.
line the walls with concretors steel mesh then pink batts covered in your choice of cladding.
plenty of ventilation is a must.
line the walls with concretors steel mesh then pink batts covered in your choice of cladding.
#9
_Monkey_
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 04:04 PM
Here is a before and after shot of somebody's garage that was posted on here.
(cant remember who posted them)
(cant remember who posted them)
#10
TORLX8
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 05:42 PM
I too am getting a colourbond shed erected in the next few weeks.
Mine will be 7 x 8 x 3 with a 27.5 degree pitched roof, so there is the possibillity of installing a hoist and a loft down the track too.
Mine will be 7 x 8 x 3 with a 27.5 degree pitched roof, so there is the possibillity of installing a hoist and a loft down the track too.
#11
orangeLJ
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 06:29 PM
we put a shed up about 2 years ago, its only 6x6 which is no where big enough but mum wouldnt let me and my step-dad have a bigger one (plus it came up real cheap) the most expensive part of ours was the slab and the surrounding drive we put in. we have storage lofts above both sides and have atleast 10 power pointsaround the sides aswell as a 15 amp one for the welder and stuff. we have some big benches aswell as around 4 big cupboardss around the sides. The one problem with all the cupboards is doors!!!! you would be better to have open face bookcases then ones with doors, as you cant open them if a car is parked too close. will find more photos of inside later.
#12
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 06:41 PM
Thanks for the replies fellas!!, I'm definately going to have to paint the floor its something I always wanted at the last house and now with an empty fresh concrete slab now would be the best time too!!.
On the concept of reducing the noise factor, I thought of maybe using some mastic style sheets in different locations to try and soften the vibrations and also some blocks of rubber in different spots too in the same vain as you find in modern vehicles where they have sheets on boot floors and floorpans and rubber "dampener" style blocks bolted to inner quater panel braces etc.......
I'd like to sheet/clad the walls and this would probably be the most effective but I'm worried about the cost, Are there any building sheet materials that are really really cheap that I could use? Like I said I don't have a generous budget which is unfortunate!!
Keep the ideas flowing.....looks like i'm not the only one expecting!!
On the concept of reducing the noise factor, I thought of maybe using some mastic style sheets in different locations to try and soften the vibrations and also some blocks of rubber in different spots too in the same vain as you find in modern vehicles where they have sheets on boot floors and floorpans and rubber "dampener" style blocks bolted to inner quater panel braces etc.......
I'd like to sheet/clad the walls and this would probably be the most effective but I'm worried about the cost, Are there any building sheet materials that are really really cheap that I could use? Like I said I don't have a generous budget which is unfortunate!!
Keep the ideas flowing.....looks like i'm not the only one expecting!!
#13
orangeLJ
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 06:48 PM
ring demolition companys (preferably smaller ones) and ask them how much they want for some old cladding or jiprock etc. Has to be cheaper then new and would suit your purpose. Othrwise there is always local building sites, as a kid we used to flog so much stuff from them, mainly that foam they put under concrete.... no im joking ... that would be illegal..... 
#14
_82911_
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 07:29 PM
I've never done this so don't shoot me.....
for soundproofing the walls....howabout some corflute board like the real estate signs are made of as a lining? This could be tek screwed to the purlins and wall braces to form a hollow cavity wall. Downside...might be a little too flexible???If it is gyprock or masonite?
Into this hollow cavity pump it full of that part a & b epoxy expanding foam...
Should cut down a lot of the sound. Wouldn't be all that expensive either i would think? And ain't that expanding foam the best shit to muck around with!!!!!
Also Pete, make sure the shed builders put adequate flashing along the top ridge as otherwise leaves/dust and shit just blows up the corrugations in the roof and falls down inside.
Cheers Greg..
for soundproofing the walls....howabout some corflute board like the real estate signs are made of as a lining? This could be tek screwed to the purlins and wall braces to form a hollow cavity wall. Downside...might be a little too flexible???If it is gyprock or masonite?
Into this hollow cavity pump it full of that part a & b epoxy expanding foam...
Should cut down a lot of the sound. Wouldn't be all that expensive either i would think? And ain't that expanding foam the best shit to muck around with!!!!!
Also Pete, make sure the shed builders put adequate flashing along the top ridge as otherwise leaves/dust and shit just blows up the corrugations in the roof and falls down inside.
Cheers Greg..
Edited by 82911, 28 January 2007 - 07:32 PM.
#15
_Pete_
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 07:40 PM
Also Pete, make sure the shed builders put adequate flashing along the top ridge as otherwise leaves/dust and shit just blows up the corrugations in the roof and falls down inside.
I'm having it built by Titan Garages and I think they have it all as a kit, My last shed was built by Tri-Steel whom i've been told have gone out of business and this was never an issue, Hopefully the kit has adequate flashing otherwise I'll have to make sure its ok.
The expanding foam concept definately has some merit once all shelves are built in place, I wonder if the Corflute Board is flame and or spark resistant? might have to do some research on its availabilty.
#16
_82911_
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 07:44 PM
Doh! your right that shit melts and burns really well.. just look around some of the cheap housing estates afetr a big saturday night to see the melted remains!The expanding foam concept definately has some merit once all shelves are built in place, I wonder if the Corflute Board is flame and or spark resistant? might have to do some research on its availabilty.
So yeah, probably stick with the masonite.
Cheers Greg..
#17
racean69
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 08:40 PM
a 6 x 9 with 2 cars in it will not give you alot of room to work with.
My shed is 9 x 9 x 3 and it aint big enough.
I just bought a sea container for some extra storage.
Put all the power points you can aford, I even put some weather proof ones on a couple of outside walls.
I ran a nylon coated wire rope across from one side to the other, got some rollers from the bottom of sliding glass doors and made up this
it's very handy to have power coming straight down some times, and you can just pull it along with you.
Also some wirly birds, and I put sissal paper under the roof sheets and got a couple off old ceiling fans and put them in as well, it gets pretty hot here!
I made up this loft to go in the back corner....... more storage, sorry the pics a bit dark
My shed is 9 x 9 x 3 and it aint big enough.
I just bought a sea container for some extra storage.
Put all the power points you can aford, I even put some weather proof ones on a couple of outside walls.
I ran a nylon coated wire rope across from one side to the other, got some rollers from the bottom of sliding glass doors and made up this
it's very handy to have power coming straight down some times, and you can just pull it along with you.
Also some wirly birds, and I put sissal paper under the roof sheets and got a couple off old ceiling fans and put them in as well, it gets pretty hot here!
I made up this loft to go in the back corner....... more storage, sorry the pics a bit dark
#18
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 09:59 PM
What I've found, is no matter how well you plan it, your ideas of what you want/need will change with time. Think I'm up to No. 5 or 6 ideal layout of the shed now!!!! Lofts are great for getting odd crap (including wife's shit) up out of the way/sight.
Soundproofing, pay $300 and get some sound acoustic advice. You can put all the crap in in the world, but if you have the smallest air gap it will all be in vein. Best thing is to plan your noisy work in reasonable hours, i.e. early morning (after 7am, 8am on Sundays), or early evening before 7pm all nights of the week. That's what I do, well after the cops come around at 12:30am one morning cause I was using the nail gun!!!!
Yup, painted floor ---> yum. Also like the rubber matting. If I just take one square from the HSV tent and one from the Castrol tent each time I go to the track, in 5 years I should have a shed's worth.
Soundproofing, pay $300 and get some sound acoustic advice. You can put all the crap in in the world, but if you have the smallest air gap it will all be in vein. Best thing is to plan your noisy work in reasonable hours, i.e. early morning (after 7am, 8am on Sundays), or early evening before 7pm all nights of the week. That's what I do, well after the cops come around at 12:30am one morning cause I was using the nail gun!!!!
Yup, painted floor ---> yum. Also like the rubber matting. If I just take one square from the HSV tent and one from the Castrol tent each time I go to the track, in 5 years I should have a shed's worth.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 28 January 2007 - 10:01 PM.
#19
Loui
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 10:54 PM
Old doors are good to line walls with and cheap to get, people tend to chuck them out, them maybe put some pink batts behind them
The wall behind the XU-1 (with the plastic sheet on it) is lined with old doors, good to hang the dartboard on too
Cheers
Loui
The wall behind the XU-1 (with the plastic sheet on it) is lined with old doors, good to hang the dartboard on too
Cheers
Loui
#20
_trna76hb_
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Posted 29 January 2007 - 07:09 AM
My brother inlaw plays the drums in his shed & he used egg cartons to line the walls
#21
_JBM_
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Posted 29 January 2007 - 10:51 AM
The most cost effective way to reduce noise is fibre glass bats.
Because the walls in most sheds are hard and flat the noise justs bounces around so rough uneven surfaces will absorb the sound, ie eggcrates, heavy curtains, pegboards, carpet, rubber underlay, plaster acoustic tiles etc.
If youve noticed what the inside of a music studio looks like the walls are at odd angles and the ceiling isnt flat, this is so the sound doesn't echo when their recording.
I worked for a place that made acoustic enclosures for noisy pumps and motors etc and they used sheet steel on the outside, fibreglass bats and perforated sheet on the inside. If more noise reduction was necessary the glass got thicker. In extreme circumstances they used foam with a lead layer. As someone else mentioned air gaps around doors and windows will undo your good work.
James
Because the walls in most sheds are hard and flat the noise justs bounces around so rough uneven surfaces will absorb the sound, ie eggcrates, heavy curtains, pegboards, carpet, rubber underlay, plaster acoustic tiles etc.
If youve noticed what the inside of a music studio looks like the walls are at odd angles and the ceiling isnt flat, this is so the sound doesn't echo when their recording.
I worked for a place that made acoustic enclosures for noisy pumps and motors etc and they used sheet steel on the outside, fibreglass bats and perforated sheet on the inside. If more noise reduction was necessary the glass got thicker. In extreme circumstances they used foam with a lead layer. As someone else mentioned air gaps around doors and windows will undo your good work.
James
#22
arrimar
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Posted 29 January 2007 - 02:57 PM
you didnt work at "sound control" at eagle farm brisbane did you?
#23
ToRunYa
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Posted 29 January 2007 - 03:17 PM
fibreglass batts and "soundchek" gyprock have a plasterer pop round after your've hung the sheets and get them to flush it up otherwise it aint that hard to smeer plaster on the wall run a tape "plasterers tape not gaffa" over the joint then trowl over the join again (you can topcoat too if ya really wanna be posh) get a few roof battens and screw some to the roof add cornice and there ya go a smicko shed and with the addition of a greylead somewhere to put ya valve clearences and other lill important figures.
*hint* go to ya local builders yard or bunnings and try to get all the sheets with broken corners or roof battens they have ran over with the forklift, get it for basically nothing cause they cant sell em full price!
just allow for an intercom from the house so if things come to grief you can inform your wife etc to get the bandaids cause they wont hear ya otherwise!
*hint* go to ya local builders yard or bunnings and try to get all the sheets with broken corners or roof battens they have ran over with the forklift, get it for basically nothing cause they cant sell em full price!
just allow for an intercom from the house so if things come to grief you can inform your wife etc to get the bandaids cause they wont hear ya otherwise!
#24
_JBM_
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Posted 29 January 2007 - 06:41 PM
No. Peace Engineering in Sydney.you didnt work at "sound control" at eagle farm brisbane did you?
James
#25
orangeLJ
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Posted 30 January 2007 - 07:00 PM
This is our drive through garage (from front driveway to back yard where it meets the concrete that runs to the shed)
This is th main layout of the shed, benches along the back, lofts up top, lots of lights and shit to store.
we even have a window mounted air conditioner, TV, stereo, video player, barfridge, fans, ajnd a lounge that we drag in from under the carport.
THE BEST SHED LAYOUT EVER-
XU-1 on one side and my lovely lady on the other side!
thats about it, i have more photos but u get the idea.
CHEERS Chris
(the shd is 6x6 and although its tight you can still work on the motor and stuff with two cars in the shed)
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