10 replies to this topic

[Evan]

heya guys!
can somone please straight out for me what are the rules when painting over acrylic paint?
everyone i talk to has a different opinion about it !
some say you cant , some say you can, some say you have to go to bare metal.
ive started going to bare metal but it would make my life a lot easier if i dodnt have to.
sorry about the headding , im disleksic sum times.

thanks guys
Evan.

Edited by Evan, 03 February 2007 - 03:28 PM.

[TerrA LX]

yes you can, but i would not advise it because
A; you had to ask.
B; depends on how long its been painted.

if the top coat is totally dry, i mean like years old they you may well get away with it, following the manufactures application guidelines, but it will fry acryllic if it is fresh, remember top coat alone can take 21 days just to fully dry (this process is actually evaporating the thinners and the paint may still be soft) and not concitering any undercoats.

sometimes i have found the edges are affected ie where bare metal meets acryllic.

if indoubt test a small spot about hand size first where you can easily sand back and reprep or

take the whole thing back to bare metal.

it will fry acryllic.

Edited by ALX76, 03 February 2007 - 05:38 PM.

[Evan]

heya alx76, thanks for the heads up. , the paint on it is about 4 years old. thje front nose cone and guard is about 1` year old. is that dry enough to paint over it.
i was told to just scuff it up with 250 grade and prime and paint and it will be fine.
this would make my life easier. but i dont want it flaking up or looking shit.
Evan.

[TerrA LX]

its not a problem that will raise its ugly head in 6 months time (thats usually poor prep anyway) 2K drys at tops 24hr so you will virtually see at the time of painting if you are going to have a problem or not.
12 month old paint might be a bit fresh, depends on things like it it was just a flow coat ( one or two coats) might be dry. if it is spray putty and undercoat with top coat it be a bit freah still.
see where im coming from.

all at your own risk of course.

250 is a little course unless you plan on hammering on hi fil.

remember to follow the menufacrures guidelines for their product.

i find a around 400 dry paper for pre undercoat and min 800 wet pre top coat.

Edited by ALX76, 03 February 2007 - 06:07 PM.

[Evan]

hey alx76, i understand now what you mean about it being totally dry!
ive decided to just go bare metal on all panels. when i was cutting back the panels sprayed about 1 year ago it did not turn into dust like the rest, it kinda got hot and started melting and sticky.
its pretty easy to cut them all back to bare, 4 hours got all the nose cone, 2 front guards and the one just below the windscreen.
just over an hour for each with breaks as it was 40 degreee's today and i was outside.

next are doors and hatch, and bonnet and then the rest.
it was at the pannel shop getting done , but the usual story with them loosing interest and not doing it made me take it back. the first time i ever get sumthing dont by a shop i get pineappled arround.

thats my winge over. ill keep ya updated with how it goes and what lies under the paint.

Evan,

Edited by Evan, 03 February 2007 - 10:35 PM.

[TerrA LX]

Go eazy if you find bog as it is sometime hard to get right again if you dig out a big repair unless you have a good panel man. iIf its repaired right first time then leave it.
Good luck with the panels and remember if you dont get it right try try again, i have spent over 100hrs (fixing old repairs) getting one panel just right. Involves lots of hi-fil guide coat/blocking back etc etc but you learn from your mistakes.
Cheers.

[dattoman]

Thats what ahppened to my datto
The paint is cracked and flaking off
So its off to the blasters with that car when the time comes (project #8)