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Hatch Boot boards


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#1 _The Baron_

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Posted 03 February 2007 - 09:16 PM

Hi all,

Some clever little person once stated the thickness of these boards that sit over the spare tyre. The metric stuff is to thick (16mm) and thin (12mm) I think.

Maybe the Yanks can supply the stuff if a bulk order is placed as it was an imperial measurement from memory.

Anything is possible.

Cheers

#2 _stinky_

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Posted 03 February 2007 - 10:09 PM

A bit of an extreme solution to a problem.
MDF thicknesses would be based on imperial measurements anyway.
eg
12mm close to 12.5mm which is 1/2"
16mm close to 15.6mm which is 5/8"

The imperial in between the two would be 9/16" = 14mm

How about 12mm MDF with a 3mm MDF laminate for a 15mm thickness?
or running the 16mm through a planer/thicknesser?

There's always more than one way to skin a cat

#3 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 03 February 2007 - 10:23 PM

I would not use MDF for the hatch covers. I had mine made out of ply.

#4 LX2DR

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Posted 03 February 2007 - 11:29 PM

I used the thicker melamine and ran the router around the bottom edges to let it sit down flush with the top of the deck.
Also check this old thread, Tail boards

Pic's of my boards.
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& hidden tool box area.
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I wouldn't use plain MDF either, the melamine is laminated so you gain strength & is water proof, you only have to seal the cut edges.

Mine have been in for 3 years & look as good today as they did when i made them.

Paul

#5 _Flamenco_

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Posted 03 February 2007 - 11:34 PM

I have some originals at home - I'll try to measure them soon...

#6 TerrA LX

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Posted 04 February 2007 - 12:12 AM

I used the thicker melamine and ran the router around the bottom edges to let it sit down flush with the top of the deck.

Legand. Too easy. Thanx for the tip mate, been looking at this job for quite a while myself. :spoton:

#7 _The Baron_

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Posted 04 February 2007 - 09:43 AM

Thanks guys.

As shitty as they are, I need to go original and there is my problem.

Cheers

#8 LX2DR

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Posted 04 February 2007 - 02:35 PM

I used the thicker melamine and ran the router around the bottom edges to let it sit down flush with the top of the deck.

Legand. Too easy. Thanx for the tip mate, been looking at this job for quite a while myself. :spoton:

You are more than welcome.

1 thing i forgot :tease:

You have to router the hinge area as well to make it open properly, the hinge has to sit at the top edge of the boards.

You may also see i routed where the latch handles swing, this was for clearance to stop the boards and latches damaging each other, not original but the boards open on to each other dead flat.

Paul




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