G'day,
I have recently installed a Turbo350 speedo cable from my th700 to my original torana speedo so i could pass my engineers certificate.
I have purchased an adaptor from Gaugeworks in S.A. which screws into the gearbox and has two outputs, one mechanical, one electrical.
The problem is the adaptor is too big and if trying to install the speedo cable onto the end it won't fit (would require modifications to the trans tunnel).
Saturday morning i got my speedo working and the only way was to unscrew the speedo elec/mech adaptor and screw the speedo cable straight into the gearbox. The car drives fine without the electrical connection, i'm just wondering if it will wreck anything, or if the engine will function incorrectly without the speedo sensor plugged in? If the electrical part has to be working then i'm gonna need to modify the tunnel, which i don't really want to do.
Thanks guys,
Rhys.
Vehicle Speed Sensor
Started by
_rhysandhisLJ_
, Mar 26 2007 06:09 PM
14 replies to this topic
#2
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 26 March 2007 - 07:58 PM
Give CAE a call. They should be able to answer you questions and they have a few solutions. They have a right angle speedo drive that may help.
http://www.castleaut.../31601aa167.jpg
Castle Auto Elec
http://www.castleauto.com.au/
03 5472 1442
http://www.castleaut.../31601aa167.jpg
Castle Auto Elec
http://www.castleauto.com.au/
03 5472 1442
#3
_rhysandhisLJ_
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Posted 26 March 2007 - 09:21 PM
cheers ls2 i'll give them a call tomorrow, hopefully their answer is "no you don't need a vehicle speed sensor, all it is for is the electronic speedo (which you won't be using)"
#4
gtrboyy
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Posted 27 March 2007 - 12:40 AM
Without it connected,you won't get lean cruise if its a later model ecu(vr-vs),other thing is that ecu wont know how to sense load or when you are moving/stopping & will occasionally stall or even intermtently pop up the speed sensor fault code like mine does.
#5
_rhysandhisLJ_
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Posted 27 March 2007 - 06:48 AM
gtrboyy, my ecu is from a VP commodore, will the speed sensor still be looking to see if my car is moving or just in the vr-vs ones? as it does happen to stall now and again, though damo thinks that may be because of a dirty throttle body.
cheers,
Rhys,.
cheers,
Rhys,.
#6
_Herne_
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Posted 27 March 2007 - 08:14 AM
Not sure why your car is stalling.
One thing we found out was I had to use a modded VN chip in a VN computer even though my EFI running gear was VRSS. My car would not run at all well with the VR chip (ECU) in the VN computer. One doesn't think of these mix and match problems when buying working 2nd hand gear along with brand new. At least I didnt.
It took Sam from COME racing combined with the Belconnen Dyno boys including Struggler to work this out. Many mechanics were scratching their heads wondering why it just wouldn't run properly.
Might have nothing to do with your symptoms as each case seems to have its own little problems
I thoroughly recommend the boys at Belconnen Dyno for their analytical skills.
Herne
One thing we found out was I had to use a modded VN chip in a VN computer even though my EFI running gear was VRSS. My car would not run at all well with the VR chip (ECU) in the VN computer. One doesn't think of these mix and match problems when buying working 2nd hand gear along with brand new. At least I didnt.
It took Sam from COME racing combined with the Belconnen Dyno boys including Struggler to work this out. Many mechanics were scratching their heads wondering why it just wouldn't run properly.
Might have nothing to do with your symptoms as each case seems to have its own little problems
I thoroughly recommend the boys at Belconnen Dyno for their analytical skills.Herne
#7
gtrboyy
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Posted 28 March 2007 - 03:20 AM
The car should start & run fine with a disconnected speed sensor,it will occasionally stall when you try to stop or while you are driving it will pop up intermittent fault code,however once speed sensor & speedo are connected it will run nicer IMO.
A few months back I wired up a vn 5l ecu etc into a vl,no speedo connected & the car ran well & never stalled so I think your stalling issues might be something else.Vn/p ecu have some divide by 5 circuit for the speedo,different to later vr/s.I would try to hook up that adapter to use the speed sensor as well as your speedo cable as I think it would affect the way it will drive in general.
A fault code should come up if you have driven the car & there is a problem.
A few months back I wired up a vn 5l ecu etc into a vl,no speedo connected & the car ran well & never stalled so I think your stalling issues might be something else.Vn/p ecu have some divide by 5 circuit for the speedo,different to later vr/s.I would try to hook up that adapter to use the speed sensor as well as your speedo cable as I think it would affect the way it will drive in general.
A fault code should come up if you have driven the car & there is a problem.
Edited by gtrboyy, 28 March 2007 - 03:29 AM.
#8
_rhysandhisLJ_
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Posted 28 March 2007 - 06:36 PM
I contacted Castle Auto Electrics yesterday and they said the same thing gtrboyy. They are selling the speedo adaptor (with the speedo drive on an angle) for $120ish.
What i've done in the meantime is reinstalled my original VP speedo sensor and it seems to run just the same. So my idling/stalling problem must lie somewhere else.
Tonight i disconnected and cleaned my throttlebody, also unplugged and removed a sensor. I'm not too sure what this one is for?? But it had a bunch of grease and crap on it so i cleaned it and screwed it back in.
<a href="https://cache.gmh-to...hotobucket.com" target="_blank"><img
As you can see there was heaps of crap in there and one of the vacuum lines was totally blocked (has a hose going to the rocker cover).
Started her up and still has the same problem. The reason i did this is because i went to a local auto elec place who i've deemed as idiots and they recommended i check all of my sensors.
None of the local dyno tuners can tune it either, they don't have the computer equipment to be able to modify my ECU. i doubt the ECU will need modifying as everything is per the VP commodore (ECU+engine+gearbox). The only different things are the performance exhaust and fuel system, but that should be the same as the VP anyway...
What i've done in the meantime is reinstalled my original VP speedo sensor and it seems to run just the same. So my idling/stalling problem must lie somewhere else.
Tonight i disconnected and cleaned my throttlebody, also unplugged and removed a sensor. I'm not too sure what this one is for?? But it had a bunch of grease and crap on it so i cleaned it and screwed it back in.
<a href="https://cache.gmh-to...hotobucket.com" target="_blank"><img As you can see there was heaps of crap in there and one of the vacuum lines was totally blocked (has a hose going to the rocker cover).
Started her up and still has the same problem. The reason i did this is because i went to a local auto elec place who i've deemed as idiots and they recommended i check all of my sensors.
None of the local dyno tuners can tune it either, they don't have the computer equipment to be able to modify my ECU. i doubt the ECU will need modifying as everything is per the VP commodore (ECU+engine+gearbox). The only different things are the performance exhaust and fuel system, but that should be the same as the VP anyway...
Edited by lxsl76, 28 March 2007 - 06:37 PM.
#9
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 28 March 2007 - 07:08 PM
I suspect the sensor you removed and cleaned is actually part of the throttle body idle bypass. If the computer wants to increase airflow at idle it opens the valve which lets air bypass the throttle body butterfly. You should be able to see the bypass holes on either side if the butterfly.
#10
_rhysandhisLJ_
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Posted 28 March 2007 - 09:13 PM
Idle bypass hey, that could be my problem, if this sensor/bypass valve has failed does that mean my idle would suffer at all?
Are sensors expensive, i suppose i could go through one by one and replace them, maybe taking it to a mechanic would be a cheaper option as they'd find it quickly via accessing the computer/
Are sensors expensive, i suppose i could go through one by one and replace them, maybe taking it to a mechanic would be a cheaper option as they'd find it quickly via accessing the computer/
#11
gtrboyy
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Posted 28 March 2007 - 11:40 PM
When those gunk up you can get a rough or low idle.Get some carbon cleaner like what subaru sell & spray through the throttle body & manifold.
#12
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 29 March 2007 - 12:07 AM
I would expect that the computer only opens the idle control valve when the engine is at idle and the revs drop due to load applied by the alternator or air cond. It may also come into play when the engine is cold. It would be worth checking that the bypass holes are clean.
I think that taking the car to someone that can run the computer diagnostics would be the cheapest solution. The sensors are not cheap.
One thing I have read is that it is essential that the car has good grounds (earths)
http://www.hotrodlane.cc
I think that taking the car to someone that can run the computer diagnostics would be the cheapest solution. The sensors are not cheap.
One thing I have read is that it is essential that the car has good grounds (earths)
http://www.hotrodlane.cc
Grounds are one of the most important steps to ensure a trouble free system. All grounds must be free from paint and grease, or use star washers to bite through to the bare metal. You MUST have the following ground connections.
BATTERY TO ENGINE or TRANSMISSION (even if battery is in the trunk).
ENGINE TO FRAME
ENGINE TO BODY
#13
_TORANASS_
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Posted 29 March 2007 - 07:58 AM
ENGINE TO FRAME?
What do they meen by frame?
John
What do they meen by frame?
John
#14
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 29 March 2007 - 09:41 AM
I guess they are referring to the chassis, for cars that have full chassis eg 57 Chev.ENGINE TO FRAME?
What do they mean by frame?
John
#15
hatchssv8
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Posted 29 March 2007 - 11:40 AM
Not sure if all ECMs require (or actually use it) but the speed sensor input to the EM is required for many reasons, most importantly is during deceleration.
When you decelerate with the throttle closed, the ECM drives the IAC to attain a smooth engine idle until you stop or open the throttle again. During the decelation, the ECM also changes the pulse of the injectors accordingly, also taking into account the MAP input.
With your specific problem, I would also look at the MAP connection, both electrical and vacuum.
My 2 cents, MAx
When you decelerate with the throttle closed, the ECM drives the IAC to attain a smooth engine idle until you stop or open the throttle again. During the decelation, the ECM also changes the pulse of the injectors accordingly, also taking into account the MAP input.
With your specific problem, I would also look at the MAP connection, both electrical and vacuum.
My 2 cents, MAx
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