Holden 6 waterpumps
#26
Posted 05 May 2007 - 04:13 PM
Please let me know.
Cheers
#27 _CHOPPER_
Posted 05 May 2007 - 08:57 PM
#28
Posted 08 May 2007 - 11:33 AM
#29
Posted 08 May 2007 - 11:53 AM
So make sure you buy the right one for your application
#30
Posted 08 May 2007 - 12:59 PM
Many parts catalogues don�t list these pumps properly.
There are actually 4 different water pumps for the Holden 6.
1. EH to HK (small hub & short shaft) this has the common industry part no. of W587
2. HT to HZ/VB & LC to UC Without viscous fan clutch (large hub & short shaft) part no. W726
3. HJ to HZ/VB & LC to UC With viscous fan clutch (large hub & long shaft) part no. W814
4. WB/VC to VK Large housing & bearing (commonly called the 'Jumbo' pump) part no. W815
Type 1 has a unique (smaller) bolt pattern, so must be used if you want to retain the original pulley and fan.
Types 2 & 3 use the same pulley (as each other) and can often be interchanged; the only difference between the 2 is the length of the shaft in front of the flange. Type 3 is usually the one seen on cars with factory-fitted Frigidaire air conditioning.
Type 4 has the same hub as 2 & 3 but is further forward so its pulley has a bigger offset. Type 4 was actually introduced after the Blue motor intro, so early WB/VC Blue motors can be seen with the type 3 pump.
Hope this helps. Can we make this sticky, it comes up alot ?
Dr Terry.
#31 _RCK-914_
Posted 08 May 2007 - 08:12 PM
#32
Posted 08 May 2007 - 08:17 PM
Put a thermostate in it.Im havin a few heating probs on the 173 (not overheating but running to cold)
You have most peoples dreams, running too cold.
#33 _RCK-914_
Posted 08 May 2007 - 08:32 PM
#34
Posted 08 May 2007 - 09:23 PM
74deg means it opens earlier, making the problem worse. go up in numbers to heat it up more i.e. 90deg etc.It has a 74 degree thermostate in it and still doesn't heat up properly
experiment by placing cardboard infront of the radiator to partially block air flow if you have to.
#35 _devilsadvocate_
Posted 09 May 2007 - 12:28 AM
What other hoses? Do you have hoses going to the manifold?while I was checking the hoses for leaks I noticed the hoses going to the heater box were not even warm but all the other hoses were quite hot as was the top of the radiator, but the bottom of the radiator was cold as was the hose from the bottom radiator to the waterpump.
The hose going to the heater should get just as hot or hotter than the top radiator hose. You could have a blocked heater core or something....
Water pump not working wont make a motor run too cool. Its possible in 20C air with an engine fan to have the bottom hose still feel cold......this may not be a prob.
Otherwise, do as suggested ^, in cool weather you may need to block off the whole rad to get it hotter than thermostat temp
#36 _RCK-914_
Posted 09 May 2007 - 01:02 AM
#37
Posted 09 May 2007 - 01:25 AM
just put a higher numeric thermostate in it, high 80's or low 90's deg.yeah all hoses are connected right, 1 thing I forgot to mention it does have a large 6 blade flex fan on it, if I replace it with a stanard 4 blade fan do you think this would help ?
#38
Posted 09 May 2007 - 05:36 PM
#39 _73LJWhiteSL_
Posted 19 May 2007 - 03:03 PM
thanks
Steve
#40 _danswheelie_
Posted 21 May 2007 - 04:14 PM
Cheers!
#41 _CHOPPER_
Posted 22 May 2007 - 12:20 PM
#42
Posted 26 May 2007 - 12:35 AM
I always refitted the cast impellors as close to the face as i could safely run it without actually touching and never had a problem, i also always (back then) added a little soluble oil to the cooling system, never had any rust problems.
Of course we have glycol now.
I think if you wanted too, you could in theory, press the new bearing and seal out of the replacement pump and refit it to your old pump and use the cast impellor.
(Could also just swap your cast impellor to the new pump)
So long as the pump face is in good nick and not to much corrosion in the pipes you could probably reuse the old housing many times.
The kits had the bearing, seal and impellor, only had to reuse the housing and fan hub.
Now i wish i had kept a few of the cast impellors, easy in hind-sight
#43
Posted 26 May 2007 - 08:46 AM
Those were the days, o/hauling water pumps and reaming king pin bushes.
They don't know what they're missing. Or do they?
#44
Posted 27 May 2007 - 01:12 AM
Those were the good old day's, learn't heaps doing those sorts of things.Ahhhh.......
Those were the days, o/hauling water pumps and reaming king pin bushes.
They don't know what they're missing. Or do they?
#45
Posted 27 May 2007 - 07:22 AM
in the past when a heater core has failed,but the heater has needed to appear connected, i have put a section of broom stick into the heater pipe.while I was checking the hoses for leaks I noticed the hoses going to the heater box were not even warm but all the other hoses were quite hot as was the top of the radiator,
so before I go pulling things apart does anyone have any other ideas?
thus it appears connected but is blocked internally.
is it possible the hoses/heater core are blocked and prevent circulation?
#46
Posted 03 November 2007 - 10:43 PM
Can I use number 1 in a VK motor....Hi Guys.
There are actually 4 different water pumps for the Holden 6.
1. EH to HK (small hub & short shaft) this has the common industry part no. of W587
2. HT to HZ/VB & LC to UC Without viscous fan clutch (large hub & short shaft) part no. W726
3. HJ to HZ/VB & LC to UC With viscous fan clutch (large hub & long shaft) part no. W814
4. WB/VC to VK Large housing & bearing (commonly called the 'Jumbo' pump) part no. W815
Edited by blown308, 03 November 2007 - 10:45 PM.
#47
Posted 04 November 2007 - 05:59 AM
Yes you can, but you will also need the matching pulley & fan, because the bolt pattern is different. The fan also sits closer to the motor.
The hole in the block is the same from EH to VK, it's the pulleys & fans etc that change.
Dr Terry.
#48
Posted 04 November 2007 - 08:05 AM
#49 _FCCOOL_
Posted 16 November 2009 - 05:44 PM
#50
Posted 19 November 2009 - 02:52 PM
To gain more space you don't necessarily need the very early pump. The HT to HQ one will do the job. The only difference between the two is the pulley bolt pattern, they have the same (short) offset.Anyone know now were to buy cast impeller pumps now? im after the early eh, hd, hr pump, i am changing over from the commodore type to get room for a supercharger belt, my old pump with a cast impellor has been on the motor with water for about 12 months and done about 5000 ks but the pulley is in the way.
Dr Terry
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