Javascript Disabled Detected

You currently have javascript disabled. Several functions may not work. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality.

Holden 6 waterpumps

Started by _73LJWhiteSL_ , Mar 26 2007 06:34 PM

Prev

Next
»

Please log in to reply

101 replies to this topic

#26 MR_J

Forum Member

Members
126 posts

Joined: 07-October 06

Posted 05 May 2007 - 04:13 PM

Yeah mate im keen as mustard. I would like to get one or two aswell.
Please let me know.
Cheers

Back to top

#27 _CHOPPER_

Guests

Posted 05 May 2007 - 08:57 PM

I'll just get my two first, than I will reveal all.

Back to top

#28 MR_J

Forum Member

Members
126 posts

Joined: 07-October 06

Posted 08 May 2007 - 11:33 AM

thanks chopper

Back to top

#29 dattoman

Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?

Administrators
16,471 posts

Name:Neil
Location:Perth Western Australia
Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
Joined: 04-February 07

Posted 08 May 2007 - 11:53 AM

There are 3 straight 6 pumps too

So make sure you buy the right one for your application

Back to top

#30 Dr Terry

Technical + Numbers Guru + Moderator

Moderators
3,276 posts

Location:Eastwood (Sydney) NSW
Joined: 13-November 05

Posted 08 May 2007 - 12:59 PM

Hi Guys.

Many parts catalogues don�t list these pumps properly.

There are actually 4 different water pumps for the Holden 6.

1. EH to HK (small hub & short shaft) this has the common industry part no. of W587
2. HT to HZ/VB & LC to UC Without viscous fan clutch (large hub & short shaft) part no. W726
3. HJ to HZ/VB & LC to UC With viscous fan clutch (large hub & long shaft) part no. W814
4. WB/VC to VK Large housing & bearing (commonly called the 'Jumbo' pump) part no. W815

Type 1 has a unique (smaller) bolt pattern, so must be used if you want to retain the original pulley and fan.

Types 2 & 3 use the same pulley (as each other) and can often be interchanged; the only difference between the 2 is the length of the shaft in front of the flange. Type 3 is usually the one seen on cars with factory-fitted Frigidaire air conditioning.

Type 4 has the same hub as 2 & 3 but is further forward so its pulley has a bigger offset. Type 4 was actually introduced after the Blue motor intro, so early WB/VC Blue motors can be seen with the type 3 pump.

Hope this helps. Can we make this sticky, it comes up alot ?

Dr Terry.

Back to top

#31 _RCK-914_

Guests

Posted 08 May 2007 - 08:12 PM

Im havin a few heating probs on the 173 (not overheating but running to cold)and after finding this particular post Im almost positive the waterpump is to blame,at first I thought that the thermostat was stuck open because I've been having starting problems on cold mornings and it's been using a lot more petrol and running ruff, the 1 that was in the housing was a 80 degree and had a large inlet, I replaced it with 1 that has a 74 degree and smaller intlet, I now have a slight increase in water flow but the system is not pressurising, replace radiator cap still no good, while I was checking the hoses for leaks I noticed the hoses going to the heater box were not even warm but all the other hoses were quite hot as was the top of the radiator, but the bottom of the radiator was cold as was the hose from the bottom radiator to the waterpump, the whole system was flushed out and cleaned + reco radiator about 6 months ago and I run coolent, I carn't think of any other explanation other than the pump, so before I go pulling things apart does anyone have any other ideas?

Back to top

#32 TerrA LX

Fulcrum Fixture

Members
14,241 posts

Location:Sid 'n' knee
Joined: 31-May 06

Posted 08 May 2007 - 08:17 PM

Im havin a few heating probs on the 173 (not overheating but running to cold)

Put a thermostate in it.

You have most peoples dreams, running too cold.

Back to top

#33 _RCK-914_

Guests

Posted 08 May 2007 - 08:32 PM

It has a 74 degree thermostate in it and still doesn't heat up properly

Back to top

#34 TerrA LX

Fulcrum Fixture

Members
14,241 posts

Location:Sid 'n' knee
Joined: 31-May 06

Posted 08 May 2007 - 09:23 PM

It has a 74 degree thermostate in it and still doesn't heat up properly

74deg means it opens earlier, making the problem worse. go up in numbers to heat it up more i.e. 90deg etc.

experiment by placing cardboard infront of the radiator to partially block air flow if you have to.

Back to top

#35 _devilsadvocate_

Guests

Posted 09 May 2007 - 12:28 AM

while I was checking the hoses for leaks I noticed the hoses going to the heater box were not even warm but all the other hoses were quite hot as was the top of the radiator, but the bottom of the radiator was cold as was the hose from the bottom radiator to the waterpump.

What other hoses? Do you have hoses going to the manifold?
The hose going to the heater should get just as hot or hotter than the top radiator hose. You could have a blocked heater core or something....
Water pump not working wont make a motor run too cool. Its possible in 20C air with an engine fan to have the bottom hose still feel cold......this may not be a prob.

Otherwise, do as suggested ^, in cool weather you may need to block off the whole rad to get it hotter than thermostat temp

Back to top

#36 _RCK-914_

Guests

Posted 09 May 2007 - 01:02 AM

yeah all hoses are connected right, 1 thing I forgot to mention it does have a large 6 blade flex fan on it, if I replace it with a stanard 4 blade fan do you think this would help ?

Back to top

#37 TerrA LX

Fulcrum Fixture

Members
14,241 posts

Location:Sid 'n' knee
Joined: 31-May 06

Posted 09 May 2007 - 01:25 AM

yeah all hoses are connected right, 1 thing I forgot to mention it does have a large 6 blade flex fan on it, if I replace it with a stanard 4 blade fan do you think this would help ?

just put a higher numeric thermostate in it, high 80's or low 90's deg.

Back to top

#38 MR_J

Forum Member

Members
126 posts

Joined: 07-October 06

Posted 09 May 2007 - 05:36 PM

Thanks Dr Terry. Cheers

Back to top

#39 _73LJWhiteSL_

Guests

Posted 19 May 2007 - 03:03 PM

I know we don't want a million stickies on the forum, but can i request a mod make this a sticky please? :rolleyes:

thanks

Steve

Back to top

#40 _danswheelie_

Guests

Posted 21 May 2007 - 04:14 PM

I had similar problems with the aftermarket shitty ones. I found that if I pushed the impellar further down the shaft closer to the housing it made a difference. Just thought Id let you guys know as it seems the cast jobbies are getting harder to find!
Cheers!

Back to top

#41 _CHOPPER_

Guests

Posted 22 May 2007 - 12:20 PM

That would only help if there was excessive clearance between the impeller and the body. Just remember, some clearance is needed in case some crap is dislodged from somewhere and makes it through to the pump.

Back to top

#42 LX2DR

Forum Fixture

Members
1,763 posts

Name:Paul
Location:Melbourne
Joined: 21-November 05

View Garage

Posted 26 May 2007 - 12:35 AM

Many years ago, i had access to water pump repair kits.

I always refitted the cast impellors as close to the face as i could safely run it without actually touching and never had a problem, i also always (back then) added a little soluble oil to the cooling system, never had any rust problems.

Of course we have glycol now.

I think if you wanted too, you could in theory, press the new bearing and seal out of the replacement pump and refit it to your old pump and use the cast impellor.
(Could also just swap your cast impellor to the new pump)

So long as the pump face is in good nick and not to much corrosion in the pipes you could probably reuse the old housing many times.

The kits had the bearing, seal and impellor, only had to reuse the housing and fan hub.

Now i wish i had kept a few of the cast impellors, easy in hind-sight :furious:

Back to top

#43 rodomo

To advertise here, call 13TORANA

Members
17,999 posts

Name:R - O - B Dammit!
Location:Way out west of Melbourne Awstraylya
Joined: 10-December 05

Posted 26 May 2007 - 08:46 AM

Ahhhh.......
Those were the days, o/hauling water pumps and reaming king pin bushes.
They don't know what they're missing. Or do they?

Back to top

#44 LX2DR

Forum Fixture

Members
1,763 posts

Name:Paul
Location:Melbourne
Joined: 21-November 05

View Garage

Posted 27 May 2007 - 01:12 AM

Ahhhh.......
Those were the days, o/hauling water pumps and reaming king pin bushes.
They don't know what they're missing. Or do they?

Those were the good old day's, learn't heaps doing those sorts of things.

Back to top

#45 arrimar

"Have you still got that Torana!"

Members
3,123 posts

Location:brisbane
Car:Salamanca L34, Absinth LH SLR/5000, Caribean Blue LH 5.0, C250 Merc,
Joined: 13-January 06

Posted 27 May 2007 - 07:22 AM

while I was checking the hoses for leaks I noticed the hoses going to the heater box were not even warm but all the other hoses were quite hot as was the top of the radiator,
so before I go pulling things apart does anyone have any other ideas?

in the past when a heater core has failed,but the heater has needed to appear connected, i have put a section of broom stick into the heater pipe.

thus it appears connected but is blocked internally.

is it possible the hoses/heater core are blocked and prevent circulation?

Back to top

#46 blown308

Forum Fixture

Members
2,328 posts

Location:Silverdale, NSW
Joined: 05-March 06

Posted 03 November 2007 - 10:43 PM

Hi Guys.

There are actually 4 different water pumps for the Holden 6.

1. EH to HK (small hub & short shaft) this has the common industry part no. of W587
2. HT to HZ/VB & LC to UC Without viscous fan clutch (large hub & short shaft) part no. W726
3. HJ to HZ/VB & LC to UC With viscous fan clutch (large hub & long shaft) part no. W814
4. WB/VC to VK Large housing & bearing (commonly called the 'Jumbo' pump) part no. W815

Can I use number 1 in a VK motor.... :blink:

Edited by blown308, 03 November 2007 - 10:45 PM.

Back to top

#47 Dr Terry

Technical + Numbers Guru + Moderator

Moderators
3,276 posts

Location:Eastwood (Sydney) NSW
Joined: 13-November 05

Posted 04 November 2007 - 05:59 AM

Hi blown308.

Yes you can, but you will also need the matching pulley & fan, because the bolt pattern is different. The fan also sits closer to the motor.

The hole in the block is the same from EH to VK, it's the pulleys & fans etc that change.

Dr Terry.

Back to top

#48 blown308

Forum Fixture

Members
2,328 posts

Location:Silverdale, NSW
Joined: 05-March 06

Posted 04 November 2007 - 08:05 AM

thanks, I have just put a VK engine in the Fj and and I cannot get the radiator in.. by a couple centimetres.. looks like I will have to run fanless and put on a thermo van... rgds wayne

Back to top

#49 _FCCOOL_

Guests

Posted 16 November 2009 - 05:44 PM

Anyone know now were to buy cast impeller pumps now? im after the early eh, hd, hr pump, i am changing over from the commodore type to get room for a supercharger belt, my old pump with a cast impellor has been on the motor with water for about 12 months and done about 5000 ks but the pulley is in the way.

Back to top

#50 Dr Terry

Technical + Numbers Guru + Moderator

Moderators
3,276 posts

Location:Eastwood (Sydney) NSW
Joined: 13-November 05

Posted 19 November 2009 - 02:52 PM

Anyone know now were to buy cast impeller pumps now? im after the early eh, hd, hr pump, i am changing over from the commodore type to get room for a supercharger belt, my old pump with a cast impellor has been on the motor with water for about 12 months and done about 5000 ks but the pulley is in the way.

To gain more space you don't necessarily need the very early pump. The HT to HQ one will do the job. The only difference between the two is the pulley bolt pattern, they have the same (short) offset.

Dr Terry