Gap for point on 202
#1 _sav_dan_
Posted 06 April 2007 - 04:25 PM
Just after the reccomended breaker gap for the point in a dizzy on a 202. And is that gap set when the point is open fully?
Cheers
sav
#2
Posted 06 April 2007 - 04:57 PM
Point gap 0.53 - 0.58 mm ( 0.021 - 0.023 in )
Dwell angle 30 - 35 deg
#3 _sav_dan_
Posted 06 April 2007 - 05:32 PM
Is it worth getting a meter that measures dwell?
I looked on ebay and you can get one for under $70.
#4 _CraigA_
Posted 06 April 2007 - 05:37 PM
Cheers,
Craig.
#5
Posted 06 April 2007 - 05:40 PM
or the cash you spend on a meter you could upgrade to electronic and never have to set it again.
#6
Posted 06 April 2007 - 06:09 PM
#7 _sav_dan_
Posted 06 April 2007 - 06:15 PM
#8 _mal_b_
Posted 10 April 2007 - 10:21 PM
#9 _devilsadvocate_
Posted 11 April 2007 - 10:32 AM
The UC owners manual says 0.45mm and 30-34deg. Perhaps it was different for other earlier 202's, dont know if the 0.53-58 would fit into the 30-34 range without doing some calcs. Yes they should be adjusted a few weeks after installation, cant remember which way. Not sure about setting the gap larger to allow for wear?, unless the pitting etc actually builds up both surfaces of the points, or is it the cam follower wears down.......Point gap is set when fully open. It can be measured using feeler guages or a dwell meter. If the points are new then set at the larger gap reading to allow for wear.
Point gap 0.53 - 0.58 mm ( 0.021 - 0.023 in )
Dwell angle 30 - 35 deg
From experience the car will run fine from 25-40deg dwell angles.
$70 for a dwell meter.....too much......I agree put the money into an electronic dizzy or have a look at cash convertors, usually lots of that sort of stuff there, id be haggling down to $5 on an item like that.
Its easier to do it with a dwell meter if you have an automatic as getting the motor to rest with the points open is difficult but not impossible........yes if you are removing the spark plugs its not too hard to turn it by the fan belt etc. or carefully mark the position of the dizzy and take it out and do it.
One tip for doing it with a dwell meter, set the point gap to ~2-3deg below spec while you crank the motor on the starter, disconnect the ht lead from the coil!. Then when you put the dizzy cap back on and run the motor at a bit more speed it should fall into the correct range. There should only be an ~2deg change in dwell as the motor is spun from idle to high rpm.
If you just have feeler gauges, set it up with those, if it runs fine......go with that, and spend any money assigned to "car improvements" on other areas of the car.
Edited by devilsadvocate, 11 April 2007 - 10:46 AM.
#10
Posted 11 April 2007 - 10:40 AM
#11 _sav_dan_
Posted 13 April 2007 - 07:59 AM
#12
Posted 13 April 2007 - 08:14 AM
Try locate a factory commodore one off a blue six etc with its coil.
#13 _CraigA_
Posted 13 April 2007 - 09:11 AM
No Good Mate.
ALX76 could you elaborate?
I use one of these and have heard mixed feedback. Seems to work good for me, I use the exact type in the link, along with a Bosch GT-40 coil. I have a Pro-Comp coil as well but haven't fitted it yet.
I have heard of module failures but these could be directly related to the coil type used - possibly resistive coils without the current limiting resistor fitted causing the module to switch a higher current load than it was designed for.
Thanks,
Craig.
#14 _73LJWhiteSL_
Posted 13 April 2007 - 12:01 PM
After my last experiences with points (namely a Mazda 808 with a 1.3 that ATE points) I didn't want to have anything to do with them. Had no ignition issues even with a 2nd hand electronic dizzy.
Steve
Edited by 73LJWhiteSL, 13 April 2007 - 12:01 PM.
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