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Painting Acrylic Metallic

Started by _SLR5000_ , Jan 14 2006 10:01 PM

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17 replies to this topic

#1 _SLR5000_

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Posted 14 January 2006 - 10:01 PM

Again just I am chasing tips & advice, I sprayed the front apron today in primer & so far so good it has come up really well!

Any tips on laying down the Acrylic silver metallic paint? I read that paint can look like it has stripes in it if not applied correct.

thanks

Garry

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#2 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 15 January 2006 - 01:55 AM

silver can be hard to paint you need to spray it reasonably wet but not too wet or it streaks, and not too dry or it goes patchy its hard to explain,they always say you can judge a good or bad painter by his silver paint jobs it one of the hardest to get right do silver on a cool day not hot weather it will patch very easy if its too hot.

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#3 rodomo

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Posted 15 January 2006 - 07:27 AM

if you have to put the gun down for any reason, stir the pot before resuming.
RACV MAN

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#4 _gstar_

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Posted 15 January 2006 - 11:21 AM

i am doing up a vk calais atm, and the door moulds are silver, i am using silver base with no tinter. i am as novice as they come, and some how smart assed a half decent paintjob, what i found about silver was i sprayed it too thick, and in places it looked shit house, so what i did was dusted it on until the pannels looked like 1200 sandpaper. and followed it with heaps of clear, i didnt sand it at all between coats, after buffing it came up magic. i wouldnt hesitate in doing a entire car like this, opposed to flo coating. but i prob will avoid these light metallics in the future,

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#5 _Pete_

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Posted 15 January 2006 - 08:44 PM

My preferred method of painting silvers and light metallics is to lay the initial and majority of the coats down nice and wet so the metallics will flow and flatten out and then your final coat thin down a fair bit more and spray a little more varied and overlap your panels a lot wider as well, you should be able to see if your metallics is right as it should be nice and uniform all over.

Then tack rag it.

Then bury the whole thing in as much clear as you can so you won't cut through (i'm guessing your using acrylic)

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#6 _SLR5000_

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Posted 15 January 2006 - 09:27 PM

Thanks for the tips guys, Iam only painting my front apron that is off the car as a test & practice prior to painting whole car.

Pete when you say lay down the coats nice & wet does this mean more thinners added to the acrylic paint?

thanks

Garry

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#7 rodomo

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Posted 15 January 2006 - 09:36 PM

I'm not Pete but my experience with acrylic is if the can says thin 4 to 1 go 5 to 1,
the paint goes on with a "wet" look similar to enamels and is easier to buff up. As you mix the paint you wan't it to run off your stirrer at nearly the consistancy of water. As you spray watch for the shine as you move the gun, if there is no shine move slower or thin your paint a bit more.
RACV MAN

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#8 _SLR5000_

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Posted 15 January 2006 - 09:56 PM

Thanks rodomo, I appreciate your help, believe me I am going to need as much help as I can get

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#9 _Pete_

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Posted 15 January 2006 - 10:06 PM

By wet i mean dont be so concerned with getting your metallic even looking first up, lay on the paint so its wet (plenty of material coming through and a nice fan pattern so the paint isnt drying as soon as it hits the panel).

The easiest way to know if you have the right consistency for acrylics is to use a flat paint stirrer (from your automotive paint supplier) and do your normal mixing technique. Then lift it up and count how long it takes for the paint to stop running and start dripping.

Around 4 SECONDS is the right consistency for acrylics to spray out nicely. If it takes longer your paint isnt thin enough, any quicker and you might be a little too thin.

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#10 rodomo

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Posted 15 January 2006 - 10:10 PM

You do realise that metalics also require a clear coat over the top to finish?
RACV MAN

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#11 _Pete_

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Posted 15 January 2006 - 10:31 PM

You do realise that metalics also require a clear coat over the top to finish?
RACV MAN

If you look back i did make mention of this..........

Then bury the whole thing in as much clear as you can so you won't cut through (i'm guessing your using acrylic)

If it wasnt directed at me then there ya go SLR5000 a little more information :spoton:

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#12 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 16 January 2006 - 09:32 AM

I'd actually start with something not on the car to practice on. It is hard to get all your adjustments right on a tiny little panel or car bits. Can you get anything more substantial that you can take to the tip to practice on/get your gun set up with/paint consistencies?

I found painting a whole car, rather than just bits gave me heaps of time to play with the gun, paint consistency, etc.

I just follow the rule with painting that you just keep going till you get it right.

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#13 GML-31

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Posted 16 January 2006 - 01:40 PM

from my experience doing metallic in piece by piece method can make the car look like a patchwork quilt when finished... better to do the majority in one go.

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#14 enderwigginau

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Posted 16 January 2006 - 03:01 PM

Pete,
are you a painter by trade?
We could always use a Paint tech Specialist round hereabouts.

:clap:

Grant..

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#15 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 16 January 2006 - 04:32 PM

i am also a spraypainter by trade happy to help out where i can. :spoton:

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#16 _SLR5000_

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Posted 16 January 2006 - 05:14 PM

Thanks guys & thanks Pete I am taking on what you all say & I will give it ago & lets see how she looks.

Yella I can practice on the car itself no problem as it already has been rubbed back with a coat of silver & a few spot putty patched up areas. I need to rub car back with a fine wet & dry then lay the paint on.

Put it this way the car duco could not get any worse than what it is now, then again maybe it could with me painting it

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#17 _Pete_

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Posted 16 January 2006 - 06:35 PM

You'll be right SLR 5000, at the end of the day to complete a decent paint job on a car you need the right tools/products, some knowledge/experience, and determination to get it right.

If you've got at least two of these qualities you'll be able to acheive something reasonable. Its not rocket science really.

I'm a beater but have spent enough time in the paint shop to know my way around and also have the luxury of working with talented painters who have been around long enough to be able to pass on tips from the days when Acrylic was the only way.

Every painter does have different methods of doing things but if i can help out or offer an opinion thats no worries

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#18 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 16 January 2006 - 08:21 PM

one thing, now i havn't bothered to read all the posts so i'm not sure if htis has been mentined, but aim for a 50% overlap for your strokes. more dosent hurt. this will stop you from getting the stripes you talk about.