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cutting wheel arches and fitting flares


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#26 Litre8

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Posted 03 May 2007 - 04:16 PM

The reason for fitting flares is to allow larger (wider) wheels but the flare kit alone doesn't provide this. Some cutting and welding (as shown above) is required to make it all happen without tyres scraping/rubbing the guards.

Car is not engineered though an engineer was consulted. When he looked at front end in the rolling shell, he asked "what truck is this from?". All he wanted was the 3mm stitch welded plating on the inner front rails which we did alone with the subframe connectors etc. At that stage the project was going in a direction that was contrary to many RTA rules & regs so we just called it a toy and forgot about getting it RTA legal.

#27 _Holdenmad_

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 10:09 AM

But can you fit the flares just for looks and still fit standard size wheels, or even my Titans?

Would this be a bad move engineering wise, or would it just look silly?

Need to decide so I can clean up the damage in these areas or cover it up. :P

#28 RIM-010

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 11:59 AM

You COULD flare it, and keep the 7" wide wheels, but it'd look shit.

You need wide wheels for flares. If you keep the 7" wide wheels under fat flares, it'll look worse than it does now.

You have two options, as I see it -

1. Flare it, sell the wheels to me and buy at least 8" wide wheels.
2. Leave it unflared, and keep the Titans.

I like unflared cars better, but I also like your wheels. this is a dilemma :P

Tim

#29 TerrA LX

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 08:17 PM

You COULD flare it, and keep the 7" wide wheels, but it'd look shit.

Just like every standard L34 and A9X eh?

#30 _rorym_

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 08:17 PM

Posted Image

Genuine L34
R

#31 _rorym_

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 08:18 PM

Posted Image

Ditto..compliments of TREX..I used these pics to cut my guards.
R

#32 arrimar

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 08:38 PM

the door and the door jamb is the bit that ends up rubbing when cut like that.
I would hack out some more than that.

#33 RIM-010

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 09:45 PM

You COULD flare it, and keep the 7" wide wheels, but it'd look shit.

Just like every standard L34 and A9X eh?

Yup, EXACTLY like every standard L34 and A9X.

Tim

#34 _rorym_

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Posted 06 May 2007 - 05:19 PM

the door and the door jamb is the bit that ends up rubbing when cut like that.
I would hack out some more than that.

Stiffer rear springs will fix it.. You cant cut anymore on the door jam corner...it gets quite thick there and starts into the inner guard roll etc..and you cant jack out the door lip as you need to line up the 2 pieces of flares at the rear.
R

#35 arrimar

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Posted 07 May 2007 - 10:01 PM

i played with a couple of sets of springs.
one set are low pedders that scrubbed and a set of higher but softer lovells and they scrub also. will sort it out once yours done. thatll save me the trial and error. :D

#36 tsn007

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Posted 13 May 2007 - 04:33 PM

hey guys,

any rear quater pictures for a coupe with flairs ???

would flares look better without front and rear spoilers

is it true that L34 flairs are different to A9X flairs ,in regards to
width and thickness of flair


thanks

#37 Litre8

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Posted 13 May 2007 - 08:01 PM

Imho you need both the flares and the front/rear spoilers for the correct look.

A9X flares are wider then the L34 ones.

#38 dattoman

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Posted 13 May 2007 - 09:00 PM

hey guys,

any rear quater pictures for a coupe with flairs ???

would flares look better without front and rear spoilers

is it true that L34 flairs are different to A9X flairs ,in regards to
width and thickness of flair


thanks

Front flares are all the same
And as for A9X bs L34 flares
Tjis isn't relevent for yours as its a hatch

#39 _TJ253_

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Posted 05 June 2007 - 10:02 PM

Glad i found this thread :)

#40 Statler

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Posted 13 June 2007 - 05:25 PM

Uhummmm!
You can use flares & 7" rims. Go for a 245/50 tyre & they dont look out of place.
Simply fold up the guard edge & they look good.

Who said you need a 8" rim?

#41 lx308

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Posted 03 July 2007 - 10:39 PM

This is how mine have been done.

How the rear arch was.
Posted Image

Cut some more guard out & bent up some rod to give it some strength.
Posted Image
Posted Image

Welded back up.
Posted Image

Is a lot stronger now, no sharp edge.
Thanks Darren!! :spoton:

#42 TerrA LX

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Posted 03 July 2007 - 10:51 PM

Looking good :spoton: ,
maybe this should be a sticky.




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