cutting wheel arches and fitting flares
#26
Posted 03 May 2007 - 04:16 PM
Car is not engineered though an engineer was consulted. When he looked at front end in the rolling shell, he asked "what truck is this from?". All he wanted was the 3mm stitch welded plating on the inner front rails which we did alone with the subframe connectors etc. At that stage the project was going in a direction that was contrary to many RTA rules & regs so we just called it a toy and forgot about getting it RTA legal.
#27 _Holdenmad_
Posted 04 May 2007 - 10:09 AM
Would this be a bad move engineering wise, or would it just look silly?
Need to decide so I can clean up the damage in these areas or cover it up.
#28
Posted 04 May 2007 - 11:59 AM
You need wide wheels for flares. If you keep the 7" wide wheels under fat flares, it'll look worse than it does now.
You have two options, as I see it -
1. Flare it, sell the wheels to me and buy at least 8" wide wheels.
2. Leave it unflared, and keep the Titans.
I like unflared cars better, but I also like your wheels. this is a dilemma
Tim
#29
Posted 04 May 2007 - 08:17 PM
Just like every standard L34 and A9X eh?You COULD flare it, and keep the 7" wide wheels, but it'd look shit.
#30 _rorym_
Posted 04 May 2007 - 08:17 PM
Genuine L34
R
#31 _rorym_
Posted 04 May 2007 - 08:18 PM
Ditto..compliments of TREX..I used these pics to cut my guards.
R
#32
Posted 04 May 2007 - 08:38 PM
I would hack out some more than that.
#33
Posted 04 May 2007 - 09:45 PM
Yup, EXACTLY like every standard L34 and A9X.Just like every standard L34 and A9X eh?You COULD flare it, and keep the 7" wide wheels, but it'd look shit.
Tim
#34 _rorym_
Posted 06 May 2007 - 05:19 PM
Stiffer rear springs will fix it.. You cant cut anymore on the door jam corner...it gets quite thick there and starts into the inner guard roll etc..and you cant jack out the door lip as you need to line up the 2 pieces of flares at the rear.the door and the door jamb is the bit that ends up rubbing when cut like that.
I would hack out some more than that.
R
#35
Posted 07 May 2007 - 10:01 PM
one set are low pedders that scrubbed and a set of higher but softer lovells and they scrub also. will sort it out once yours done. thatll save me the trial and error.
#36
Posted 13 May 2007 - 04:33 PM
any rear quater pictures for a coupe with flairs ???
would flares look better without front and rear spoilers
is it true that L34 flairs are different to A9X flairs ,in regards to
width and thickness of flair
thanks
#37
Posted 13 May 2007 - 08:01 PM
A9X flares are wider then the L34 ones.
#38
Posted 13 May 2007 - 09:00 PM
Front flares are all the samehey guys,
any rear quater pictures for a coupe with flairs ???
would flares look better without front and rear spoilers
is it true that L34 flairs are different to A9X flairs ,in regards to
width and thickness of flair
thanks
And as for A9X bs L34 flares
Tjis isn't relevent for yours as its a hatch
#39 _TJ253_
Posted 05 June 2007 - 10:02 PM
#40
Posted 13 June 2007 - 05:25 PM
You can use flares & 7" rims. Go for a 245/50 tyre & they dont look out of place.
Simply fold up the guard edge & they look good.
Who said you need a 8" rim?
#41
Posted 03 July 2007 - 10:39 PM
How the rear arch was.
Cut some more guard out & bent up some rod to give it some strength.
Welded back up.
Is a lot stronger now, no sharp edge.
Thanks Darren!!
#42
Posted 03 July 2007 - 10:51 PM
maybe this should be a sticky.
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