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Can won't start when hot


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#1 LS1LX

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Posted 17 May 2007 - 08:19 PM

I have a 308 in another torana of mine and just last week developed a problem which I think might be the battery or leads.

Cranks up fine and constant when cold, but after a decent 10-15 minute drive, the car wont restart, like it has a flat battery, u get the click click starter noise.

But come the next morning and it fires up again like its got a new battery.

#2 _MRNOS_

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Posted 17 May 2007 - 08:21 PM

Solenoid on the starter, typical holden V8, alot of them do it when hot

Edited by MRNOS, 17 May 2007 - 08:21 PM.


#3 rodomo

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Posted 17 May 2007 - 08:23 PM

Sounds like leads or starter.
Is the alternator charging?
A battery can start the car but if the alternator is not charging and you drive it the battery can become too flat to restart.
However, batteries can recover and start the car later.

Edited by rodomo, 17 May 2007 - 08:28 PM.


#4 _DocDamage_

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Posted 17 May 2007 - 08:24 PM

Ute did that for a few weeks, then the starter died completely. I'd say fix it before you get stuck somewhere.

#5 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 17 May 2007 - 08:27 PM

starter solenoid.

#6 TerrA LX

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Posted 17 May 2007 - 08:27 PM

Also check the earth lead from the morot to the battery.

#7 LS1LX

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Posted 17 May 2007 - 09:57 PM

Thanks guys, battery has 12V still so she is charging fine.

Can I use a late model commodore small starter ? Or I just pull it out and get some new brushes put in ?

Edited by LS1LX, 17 May 2007 - 09:58 PM.


#8 surfmaster

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Posted 17 May 2007 - 09:59 PM

Battery should have 13.2 volts with the engine stopped and more when it is running. 12 volts is too low.

#9 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 17 May 2007 - 11:51 PM

But come the next morning and it fires up again like its got a new battery.

How many consecutive mornings has this been happening for?.......just the once?

Since you have a voltmeter, you can put it to use to more effectively diagnose the problem.
a reading of 12V doesnt give enough information.
With the motor off, a fully charged battery will be 12.6-7V, partially discharged 12.4V, nearly flat 12.2V, 12.0V its going to struggle!.
With the motor running should see 13.5 to 14.0V if charging system is working.
Next cold start, observe the voltage when cranking the motor, if it drops below 10.0V chances your battery is on the limits of acceptable .
Your hot start problem with the solenoid sounds more like a connection prob to me(but solenoid is still a possibility), have a hammer on hand to give all the terminals to battery, starter and earth a tap to see if that makes a difference. If possible use another battery to jump start, if still have prob......its not the battery.

Edited by devilsadvocate, 17 May 2007 - 11:52 PM.


#10 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 18 May 2007 - 12:40 AM

Can I use a late model commodore small starter ?

I fitted a late model commodore small starter to my 308 because I had the same problem you describe.

The only problem I had was the battery lead connection on the starter was in the wrong position. I made a strap out of 5mm aluminium to relocate the battery lead connection. You may or may not have a problem depending on the exhaust system fitted.

You should be able to repair you existing starter by replacing the solenoid as others have suggested.

#11 LS1LX

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Posted 19 May 2007 - 05:48 PM

Battery boys, she had 12V but wasn't doing her job

Edited by LS1LX, 19 May 2007 - 05:51 PM.


#12 Gump

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Posted 20 May 2007 - 12:33 AM

my monaro does the same sorta thing. starts when cold (aswell as old holdens start when really cold witha 350) but drive it for 10 mins then try to restart the car has trouble turning over for a second or two. i think it could be battery it looks to small in size dont know about CCA, motor has to much compression for the starter to handle, or the starter is dodgy.

any tips?

#13 _1uzbt1_

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Posted 20 May 2007 - 12:47 PM

Also a starter relay may help on hot starts,hot engine bays can increase electrical resistance making it hard for the solinoid to pull the require current all the way from eng bay to ign switch and back to soliniod.

#14 LS1LX

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Posted 20 May 2007 - 03:55 PM

my monaro does the same sorta thing. starts when cold (aswell as old holdens start when really cold witha 350) but drive it for 10 mins then try to restart the car has trouble turning over for a second or two. i think it could be battery it looks to small in size dont know about CCA, motor has to much compression for the starter to handle, or the starter is dodgy.

any tips?

Check your ignition timing, too much will be real hard on the starter.

I run 14 deg with 10:1 308 and its fine for restarting up until now, guess the battery just had enough and decided to call it quits.

#15 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 20 May 2007 - 06:30 PM

Also a starter relay may help on hot starts,hot engine bays can increase electrical resistance making it hard for the solinoid to pull the require current all the way from eng bay to ign switch and back to soliniod.

Yes, resistance increases with temp......and yes, some near exhaust can get very in that reigon. Not all the wires get this hot going back to the switch etc.....the increase in temp over the total length shouldnt be enough to cause any meaningful voltage drops

#16 _1uzbt1_

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Posted 20 May 2007 - 08:06 PM

Dunno,i just remember reading in a mag about a 350 hq that had hot start probs and they fixed it by putting a starter relay in it as this was what the whole artical was about.I didnt actually mean all the wiring got that hot,just the wires on starter motor

Either way still worth a shot,they wiring in these vehicles are getting old and can you image what 30 odd years of starting have done to your ignition switch?

#17 Gump

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Posted 21 May 2007 - 08:44 PM

cheers guys ill have alook at the things suggested

#18 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 21 May 2007 - 09:31 PM

Dunno,i just remember reading in a mag about a 350 hq that had hot start probs and they fixed it by putting a starter relay in it as this was what the whole artical was about.I didnt actually mean all the wiring got that hot,just the wires on starter motor

Either way still worth a shot,they wiring in these vehicles are getting old and can you image what 30 odd years of starting have done to your ignition switch?

.......yes, putting a relay onto the ignition/solenoid wire is a fix for dodgy contacts on the ignition switch.... and also possibly a good idea if the solenoid current of a newer starter has a higher current demand than the original type starter(no idea!).
By all means for anyone else who experiences a similar prob try a relay on the purple solenoid wire and see if that fixes the prob. This would at least let it be known that the switch is a prob and in need of replacement.........for higher reliability Id prefer to replace the switch(if I could get a new one for a reasonable price) rather than use a relay in the long term .

Edited by devilsadvocate, 21 May 2007 - 09:45 PM.


#19 rodomo

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Posted 22 May 2007 - 12:56 AM

Could also be wiring between switch and solenoid including connectors and inhibitor switch if auto.

#20 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 22 May 2007 - 07:28 AM

good point ^, inhibitor switch is just as important and may have received more use/abuse than the ignition switch




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