Nolathane Steering Coupling Assembly
#1
Posted 22 May 2007 - 06:54 PM
Does anyone know which assembly method is correct? A or B
A.
or
B.
In this B assembly the original support washer is used but new crush tube fits inside the washers hole. This causes the urethane disc compress slighty more which might be too much.
#2 _Jewboy_
Posted 22 May 2007 - 08:25 PM
#3
Posted 22 May 2007 - 10:40 PM
Dave
#4
Posted 23 May 2007 - 01:11 AM
Jewboy- I have concerns about METHOD B as the crush bush actually fits inside the original washer hole causing the urathane disc to compress an extra 1mm when the nut is screwed down to the crush tube. The urathene actually bulges out a bit. Im worried about splitting it.
#5
Posted 23 May 2007 - 01:49 AM
You could try emailing the Nolathane tech support [email protected]
#6 _rorym_
Posted 23 May 2007 - 09:42 AM
Get the steel one from an LH off Ebay..One less thing to go wrong.Thanks 355LX - Heats not an issue. I've had my existing one for 17 years and with the UC front end which has the heat shield with a v8 and extractors. Whats the other alternative anyway?
Jewboy- I have concerns about METHOD B as the crush bush actually fits inside the original washer hole causing the urathane disc to compress an extra 1mm when the nut is screwed down to the crush tube. The urathene actually bulges out a bit. Im worried about splitting it.
R
#7
Posted 23 May 2007 - 11:57 AM
#8
Posted 24 May 2007 - 08:38 PM
#9 _rorym_
Posted 24 May 2007 - 10:34 PM
R
Jesus someone local help the guy out for christs sake!
Edited by rorym, 24 May 2007 - 10:38 PM.
#10
Posted 25 May 2007 - 01:16 AM
Maybe the one Rory has seen had 2 x uni's? I don't know for sure but maybe the splines are the same?
Personally I wouldn't fit a uni where a flexible coupling should be on a road car.
Have a look here:
http://www.gmh-toran...15
Edited by rodomo, 25 May 2007 - 01:30 AM.
#11 _rorym_
Posted 25 May 2007 - 08:29 PM
R
#12
Posted 25 May 2007 - 10:21 PM
But a uni can take the place of a coupling? Correct?
#13
Posted 26 May 2007 - 12:03 AM
and shock absorbing steering column maybe.
However I suspect on a road car with rubber or neoprene bushes on crossmember, the flexible steering coupling is there to absorb movement & shock from the crossmember. If you use 2 unis in this scenario the movement and shock will travel up the shaft and break the plastic pin in the collapseable shaft in the steering column. This results in a loose shaft and possible clunking left to right which probably feels like a worn coupling and uni.
Dominoes!
#14
Posted 27 May 2007 - 08:22 PM
Ta
Welby
#15 _rorym_
Posted 27 May 2007 - 10:00 PM
Lost me Pumper...If I replace a nylon coupling with a steel one..how would I get a clunking left to right?????...The loose shaft you refer to would be up and down..i.e. in and out....if the pin broke...that is...in and out towards your chest..not possible as it is secured by screws into the column....better go back and revisit your theory.If you use 2 unis in this scenario the movement and shock will travel up the shaft and break the plastic pin in the collapseable shaft in the steering column. This results in a loose shaft and possible clunking left to right which probably feels like a worn coupling and uni.
Dominoes!
R
Just as an aside..my LC XU1 V8 has a broken pin in the column..if I undo the 2 screws at the blinker mechanism.....it moves in and out about 1 1/2 inches...but doesnt come right out as it has a stop on the shaft..it has no...clunking left and right..it is secured solidly by the shaft pins...you really have lost me on this theory totally.
Edited by rorym, 27 May 2007 - 10:04 PM.
#16 _rorym_
Posted 27 May 2007 - 10:07 PM
Have not done it yet...but the steel uni is the same length as the canvas one so should fit in with pins..both are slotted pins fit. On the LC I used a shaft shortened with a slot in it for the steel uni.Rory when you replaced the canvas coupling with the second uni joint, did you need to modify both shafts in any way, or was the uni a direct replacement fit?
Ta
Welby
R
Edited by rorym, 27 May 2007 - 10:07 PM.
#17 _JBird_
Posted 28 May 2007 - 12:11 AM
I can attest to that. There's no movement side to side just out if you pull hard on the steering wheel. (Is it hard to fix/replace that clip to stop this?)Just as an aside..my LC XU1 V8 has a broken pin in the column..if I undo the 2 screws at the blinker mechanism.....it moves in and out about 1 1/2 inches...but doesnt come right out as it has a stop on the shaft..it has no...clunking left and right..it is secured solidly by the shaft pins...you really have lost me on this theory totally.
However I'm using a Noltec one and it seems they've made it too thick and the cotter pins aren't long enough to reach the nylock part of the nut on the other side. A bit of worry, so I'm trying to find a neoprene one.
#18
Posted 29 May 2007 - 03:28 PM
If you use 2 unis in this scenario the movement and shock will travel up the shaft and break the plastic pin in the collapseable shaft in the steering column. This results in a loose shaft and possible clunking left to right which probably feels like a worn coupling and uni.
Can I bring your attention to the word "possible clunking". Purely speculatory. We are talking about approx 30 year old cars in this forum mate.
The up down movement is given if the pin is broken.
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