17 replies to this topic

[fuzzypumper]

I just purchased a nolathane steering coupling repair kit and the intructions are a bit vague. There is no mention of the original support washer and whether to reuse or discard it.
Does anyone know which assembly method is correct? A or B

A.

or

B.

In this B assembly the original support washer is used but new crush tube fits inside the washers hole. This causes the urethane disc compress slighty more which might be too much.

[355LX]

If your using that coupling in conjuction with a V8 then just be aware that some people have had trouble with those nolethane couplings melting. Just keep an eye on it.

Dave

[fuzzypumper]

Thanks 355LX - Heats not an issue. I've had my existing one for 17 years and with the UC front end which has the heat shield with a v8 and extractors. Whats the other alternative anyway?

Jewboy- I have concerns about METHOD B as the crush bush actually fits inside the original washer hole causing the urathane disc to compress an extra 1mm when the nut is screwed down to the crush tube. The urathene actually bulges out a bit. Im worried about splitting it.

[ls2lxhatch]

You could put the original support washer on top of the Nolathane washer ( The reverse of B ). I suspect A is actually what Nolathane intended as there should be very little load in that area.

You could try emailing the Nolathane tech support [email protected]

[fuzzypumper]

Rorym- I cant find any such coupling on eBay. Steel? I thought the where called flexible steering couplings for a reason.

[fuzzypumper]

I've emailed Tech support at red ranger(nolathane) and they replied: use method B. Use the factory washer and dont be concerned with extra crushing an buckling of the bush caused when the crush tube fits inside washer.

[rodomo]

Boy's UC had that uni and a canvas coupling standard.
Maybe the one Rory has seen had 2 x uni's? I don't know for sure but maybe the splines are the same?
Personally I wouldn't fit a uni where a flexible coupling should be on a road car.

Have a look here:

http://www.gmh-toran...15

Edited by rodomo, 25 May 2007 - 01:30 AM.

[rodomo]

Sorry, my err. I was thinking Commodore. Thats what happens when you've got too many things on the go at once I suppose.
But a uni can take the place of a coupling? Correct?

[fuzzypumper]

I dont doubt on a race car you could put 2 unis on and put steal bushes in the crossmember to chassis and outrigger points for absolutely no movement
and shock absorbing steering column maybe.

However I suspect on a road car with rubber or neoprene bushes on crossmember, the flexible steering coupling is there to absorb movement & shock from the crossmember. If you use 2 unis in this scenario the movement and shock will travel up the shaft and break the plastic pin in the collapseable shaft in the steering column. This results in a loose shaft and possible clunking left to right which probably feels like a worn coupling and uni.

Dominoes!

[A9X]

Rory when you replaced the canvas coupling with the second uni joint, did you need to modify both shafts in any way, or was the uni a direct replacement fit?

Ta

Welby

[fuzzypumper]

If you use 2 unis in this scenario the movement and shock will travel up the shaft and break the plastic pin in the collapseable shaft in the steering column. This results in a loose shaft and possible clunking left to right which probably feels like a worn coupling and uni.

Can I bring your attention to the word "possible clunking". Purely speculatory. We are talking about approx 30 year old cars in this forum mate.
The up down movement is given if the pin is broken.