In the adjusting shims thread there is mention of having a front crossmember reconditioned.
What gets done and who does this work?
s
Reconditioning Front Crossmember
Started by
StephenSLR
, Jan 22 2006 08:52 AM
10 replies to this topic
#1
StephenSLR
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Posted 22 January 2006 - 08:52 AM
#2
Toranamat69
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Posted 22 January 2006 - 10:31 AM
G'day mate, I am about half way through doing mine at the moment - I haven't taken pics of removing the balljoints/bushes ad disassembly which is where I am about up to but that is a pretty big job just getting to there.
Basically, you want to replace upper and lower balljoints, bushes for upper and lower control arms, and mounting of subframe and steering rack, tierod ends, reco steering rack and new steering coupling.
Some of the bolts - especially lower control arm can be seazied in from 30 years of crud and you will almost need a shovel to get rid of the dirt and grease build up.
Give a good opportunity to blast and paint everything really nice. I reckon holden got more weld slag on the front ends than anyone else could.
The upper balljoints if original are rivetted in and need to be ground out and the newies have bolts.
The lower balljoints and upper and lower bushes are pressed in and are buggers to get out but if careful you can do them without a press.
then there are bump stops , new springs and shocks to finish it all off.
I am just making up my press tools to put the bushes and lower ball joints back into my control arms at the moment so I will post some pics of them.
Whilst you are at it, there are a few tweaks and differnt parts you can upgrade too if you like.
Let me know if you need more detail as that was just a skim over
M@
Basically, you want to replace upper and lower balljoints, bushes for upper and lower control arms, and mounting of subframe and steering rack, tierod ends, reco steering rack and new steering coupling.
Some of the bolts - especially lower control arm can be seazied in from 30 years of crud and you will almost need a shovel to get rid of the dirt and grease build up.
Give a good opportunity to blast and paint everything really nice. I reckon holden got more weld slag on the front ends than anyone else could.
The upper balljoints if original are rivetted in and need to be ground out and the newies have bolts.
The lower balljoints and upper and lower bushes are pressed in and are buggers to get out but if careful you can do them without a press.
then there are bump stops , new springs and shocks to finish it all off.
I am just making up my press tools to put the bushes and lower ball joints back into my control arms at the moment so I will post some pics of them.
Whilst you are at it, there are a few tweaks and differnt parts you can upgrade too if you like.
Let me know if you need more detail as that was just a skim over
M@
#3
StephenSLR
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Posted 23 January 2006 - 02:22 PM
I have a UC front crossmember that I have pulled apart as much as I could.Let me know if you need more detail as that was just a skim over.
so yeah any more info would be helpful.
the holes where the front anti sway bar pins go through are a little bit keyhole shaped from wear. Can anything be done to get them back to circular?
I've heard that POR-15 is a good choice of paint for crossmembers.
s
#6
StephenSLR
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Posted 24 January 2006 - 06:52 AM
I hear powder coating tends to crack and you get water sitting in the cracks causing rust.stuff paint get it powder coated
Apparently the POR 15 is a very flexible paint and have been recommended by a few that it will be better in the long run.
s
#7
_Sammy_
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Posted 24 January 2006 - 02:08 PM
i rebuilt a UC crossmember and had it powder coated, its been in the car now for about 3 years and i have no issues with the powder coating on it ....
certainly alot stronger than your average paint job!
certainly alot stronger than your average paint job!
#8
_QIKSLR_
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Posted 27 January 2006 - 05:31 PM
I agree, my powder coated diff (which I haven't driven on since I had it done) its crap compared to my floor pan which I've done in por15. And its already got a few chips that have rusted.stuff powder coating, por15 it.
I'm re-building my crossmember atm too. I'm in the process of cleaning and re-painting it.
#9
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 27 January 2006 - 09:20 PM
Once I get the arse end into the drag car, I'll be rebuilding an LH front end to slot in. More fun and games.
#10
_QIKSLR_
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Posted 29 January 2006 - 09:07 AM
Your putting an LH front end into a UC?Once I get the arse end into the drag car, I'll be rebuilding an LH front end to slot in. More fun and games.
#11
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 29 January 2006 - 02:30 PM
Correct. The UC front end is better for turning, but since the drag car only travels in a straight line...
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