Apart from getting somebody else to do it, what's the best and easiest way to do it?
Removing spot welds
Started by
_CHOPPER_
, Jan 23 2006 06:48 PM
23 replies to this topic
#2
_SSHatch_
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Posted 23 January 2006 - 06:54 PM
Drill them out!!
Teng Tools actually have a special tool for doing this!
Will see if I can find the pic and post up for you!
Not Teng but if you have a look here they are a very similar tool to what I was talking about. Also some real nice but very expensive tools as well!!
Teng Tools actually have a special tool for doing this!
Will see if I can find the pic and post up for you!
Not Teng but if you have a look here they are a very similar tool to what I was talking about. Also some real nice but very expensive tools as well!!
Edited by SSHatch, 23 January 2006 - 07:02 PM.
#3
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 23 January 2006 - 07:01 PM
Price and a Melbourne distributer would be good.
#4
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 23 January 2006 - 09:00 PM
a drill the same size works well.
#6
_Pete_
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Posted 23 January 2006 - 10:54 PM
A normal drill will work ok, a proper spot weld drill bit with a slow speed drill will give you a neater result and less chance of you drilling through the second panel that your trying to remove the top one from.
Most welding consumable shops will sell spot weld drills as they normally run a bit sharpening service as well.
I could recommend a brisbane contact but thats probably no good to you.
Most welding consumable shops will sell spot weld drills as they normally run a bit sharpening service as well.
I could recommend a brisbane contact but thats probably no good to you.
#7
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Posted 24 January 2006 - 06:46 PM
I'll practice on a couple of panels I need removing with a 3/8" drill bit. Ones that don't matter if I stuff up either panel. Then I'll use the proper tool on the panels that actually matter. Thanks for the advice. I'll head for Bunnings for a couple of H/D drill bits later.
#8
UCANG
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Posted 31 January 2006 - 08:08 PM
When I had my Gemini that I and 2 mates did a Major cut and shut, we used the good old drills... But that was after we used a good old Massive flat head screwdriver and a hammer, or a chisel and hammer to get it out.. MADE A MESS! 
But who cares, it was a Gemmy
We also had this little air pressure handgun - jackhammer, that worked well getting the spot weld's off the actual chassis rail.
So take my advice, don't use chisels, jackhammers or flat head screwdrivers!! (especially on a Torana!)
But having said that, a Drill and a drill bit of the right size will work well... And the actual Tool for it will work nicely.
But who cares, it was a Gemmy
We also had this little air pressure handgun - jackhammer, that worked well getting the spot weld's off the actual chassis rail.
So take my advice, don't use chisels, jackhammers or flat head screwdrivers!! (especially on a Torana!)
But having said that, a Drill and a drill bit of the right size will work well... And the actual Tool for it will work nicely.
#9
LS1LX
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Posted 31 January 2006 - 08:21 PM
A proper spot weld drill has like a G clamp over the head, when you push the button down it clamps the panels, so the drill cant move and you only go thru 1 layer of the metal.
If you want a picture of a proper drill Ill take one tomorrow.
If your doing a dozen or so spot welds use a normal drill, if your doing half a cars worth spend the coin and get a proper drill.
If you want a picture of a proper drill Ill take one tomorrow.
If your doing a dozen or so spot welds use a normal drill, if your doing half a cars worth spend the coin and get a proper drill.
#10
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Posted 31 January 2006 - 10:30 PM
I did a bit of practice on a panel that was unimportant ( the neighbours car ) with a standard 3/8" drill bit and it worked OK. How much is the proper tool?
#11
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 05 February 2006 - 03:16 PM
So how much are the proper tools? What brands are better?
#12
LS1LX
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Posted 05 February 2006 - 08:08 PM
lotsSo how much are the proper tools? What brands are better?
ill see what brand it is tomorrow.
#13
_gtr161s_
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Posted 11 February 2006 - 02:40 PM
Go to any panel beater supplier and ask for a spot weld drill bit, there usually about $8-$10 ea, not probs. Mine was a 6mm, you can grind a drill to suit but its difficult to get the pilot centre small enough to work properly.
#14
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Posted 11 February 2006 - 03:09 PM
I got one today. I also found out the drills are around $600 a pop. I'll pass on that.
#15
_TORANR AMORE_
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Posted 11 February 2006 - 10:56 PM
Just a suggestion kids:
I've managed to do this with an angle grinder and gently grind over the top of them, they heat up, and with a sudden whack with a hammer and screwdriver hey pop off. It doesnt always work as simple as that but generally works.
This works for the types of weld that are created by two electrodes with high current passing though the steel, heating it and thus melting it together at that point. It is not a perfect weld and there are inconsistencies withing the material between the two layers that are welded, in other words the material composition and strength is different within the weld as opposed to the two surfaces it has joined. This is the theory, so re-heating it will break this bond, all you will do is take up to a milimeter out of the surface with the anglegrinder heating it up, then whack it with a screwdriver and a hammer and it should pop open. For me this worked for 8 out of 10 welds, for an experienced tradesperson it would be 90% effective.
I've managed to do this with an angle grinder and gently grind over the top of them, they heat up, and with a sudden whack with a hammer and screwdriver hey pop off. It doesnt always work as simple as that but generally works.
This works for the types of weld that are created by two electrodes with high current passing though the steel, heating it and thus melting it together at that point. It is not a perfect weld and there are inconsistencies withing the material between the two layers that are welded, in other words the material composition and strength is different within the weld as opposed to the two surfaces it has joined. This is the theory, so re-heating it will break this bond, all you will do is take up to a milimeter out of the surface with the anglegrinder heating it up, then whack it with a screwdriver and a hammer and it should pop open. For me this worked for 8 out of 10 welds, for an experienced tradesperson it would be 90% effective.
#16
surfmaster
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Posted 11 February 2006 - 11:02 PM
The problem with hitting with hammers and getting the welds too hot is distortion, no problem if you have new bits to replace the old. With older cars the drill is probably a better option.
#17
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Posted 12 February 2006 - 12:39 PM
I wouldn't trust myself with the angle grinder. I prefer to learn with the proper tools if practicable. $600 for the correct drill to me isn't practicable. $10 for a spot weld removing drill bit is practicable.
#18
_SSkid_
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Posted 12 February 2006 - 03:34 PM
I am a qualified panel beater... whenever we had no spot weld bits in the shed i would use 2 bits... a smaller 8 ml bit then a 10 ml bit on the top this eliminates wrecking the panel u are removing or the panel u are removing from..
#19
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 12 February 2006 - 03:41 PM
That's what my local panel beater said.
#20
_TORANR AMORE_
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Posted 12 February 2006 - 07:46 PM
oh well, I must've been lucky and fluked it several dozen times.
For example, if you look at my bonnet, which is just a skin, its perfect, There were support plates spot welded to the bonnet inbetween the skin and the inside structure, for the hinges. I had no drill at all. and this is how I got them out, as I was using the grinder anyway
Did the same thing for other sections of another car and it seemed to work well. I mentioned this to a mechanical & industrial engineer and he explained it to me in great detail all the way doen to the atomic level, of face centre cubic vs body centre cubic iron structures, bla bla bla etc etc etc,
A Drill works well too, if you've got one with the bits.
For example, if you look at my bonnet, which is just a skin, its perfect, There were support plates spot welded to the bonnet inbetween the skin and the inside structure, for the hinges. I had no drill at all. and this is how I got them out, as I was using the grinder anyway
Did the same thing for other sections of another car and it seemed to work well. I mentioned this to a mechanical & industrial engineer and he explained it to me in great detail all the way doen to the atomic level, of face centre cubic vs body centre cubic iron structures, bla bla bla etc etc etc,
A Drill works well too, if you've got one with the bits.
#21
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Posted 12 February 2006 - 09:03 PM
I didn't say it can't be done with an angle grinder, just that I wouldn't trust me using one. Mainly because I know what I'm like with one. I've met several panel beaters who have used angle grinders, so obviously it can be done. I just feel much more comfortable using a drill than an angle grinder. As long as the job gets done, that's the main thing.
#22
_TORANR AMORE_
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Posted 12 February 2006 - 09:44 PM
cool mate 
, I don't trust myself with them things either, I tend to get carried away and chop everything up. Nine Inch Grinders are my fav.
Chopped the roof off a Gemini and took it for a spin just for fun once. It looked good too as a convertible.
, I don't trust myself with them things either, I tend to get carried away and chop everything up. Nine Inch Grinders are my fav.Chopped the roof off a Gemini and took it for a spin just for fun once. It looked good too as a convertible.
#23
_TORANASS_
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Posted 13 February 2006 - 01:12 AM
Till the cops saw it, pitty they didnt seem to think it looked good to hey Rick lol lol
I use a drill with 2 different sized bits like said above.. works simple and affective.
John
I use a drill with 2 different sized bits like said above.. works simple and affective.
John
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