but you can also advance it too though. so whast the advandvantage of that? why not just get a different grind?

Red 6's 202 rebuild thread
Started by
red6
, Jul 03 2007 11:31 AM
31 replies to this topic
#26
_uglybob_
Posted 21 July 2007 - 05:16 PM
#27
Posted 23 July 2007 - 08:28 PM
engine was pulled out on the weekend and all stripped down tonight in preparation for heading of to the machine shop tomorrow arvo.
pulling the 202 down revealed no real suprises, loads of piston play and broken rings on pistons 3 and 4. fingers crossed for no nasty suprises at the machine shop.
getting all usual work done at the shop plus they are fitting the timing gears, arp rod bolts and balancing the motor.
pulling the 202 down revealed no real suprises, loads of piston play and broken rings on pistons 3 and 4. fingers crossed for no nasty suprises at the machine shop.
getting all usual work done at the shop plus they are fitting the timing gears, arp rod bolts and balancing the motor.
#28
Posted 29 July 2007 - 09:00 PM
no dramas at the machine shop so far. pistons and rings will be 30 thou over mains and big ends 10 thou under. crank just needed a light polish. using 5 cc dish pistons and he is doing a dummy fit of no1 piston and the crank and the yella terra head to work out the compression ratio and then decking the block to suit. also getting the cam dialed in while no1 piston is dummy assembled.
have already bought the rebuild kit and ballencer ect ect and i should be right to pick up the motor ect on tuesday.
im starting to miss driving it. its been 2 WHOLE weeks
but im sure it will be worth it once its all back together again.
have already bought the rebuild kit and ballencer ect ect and i should be right to pick up the motor ect on tuesday.
im starting to miss driving it. its been 2 WHOLE weeks

but im sure it will be worth it once its all back together again.
#29
Posted 30 July 2007 - 04:05 PM
great thread with some very good information. keep us posted with how it goes at the machine shop. im interested!
Cheers
Cheers
#30
Posted 12 August 2007 - 05:53 PM
engine is now rebuilt and back in the car. thanks everyone for the informative posts. really helped me feel confident enough to tackle it myself.
couple of pointers for anyone considering doing the same combo as me:
-remember to modify the sump baffles for sufficient clearence from the blue motors counterweights.
-as your using a blue crank you need a blue harmonic balencer.
-be aware of the rope/neoprene rear main seal differences between the variouse blocks and cranks and make sure you get the correct seal.
so far the engine seems spot on but it only has 200km on it so far so im very much still babying it about untill i hit 1000km when ill put the bigger carby on it and do an oil change.
couple of pointers for anyone considering doing the same combo as me:
-remember to modify the sump baffles for sufficient clearence from the blue motors counterweights.
-as your using a blue crank you need a blue harmonic balencer.
-be aware of the rope/neoprene rear main seal differences between the variouse blocks and cranks and make sure you get the correct seal.
so far the engine seems spot on but it only has 200km on it so far so im very much still babying it about untill i hit 1000km when ill put the bigger carby on it and do an oil change.
#31
Posted 21 August 2007 - 12:37 PM
my dipstick was snapped in half a few days ago into the sump. it had been hit by the blue crank because of the extra counterweights. admitedly it had been damaged befor and repaired but it is still something to be aware of.
no damage to motor tho and fished it out using a magnet without having to do any work except drop the sump.
now ill run a cut down dipstick to stop oil leaks out the dipstick tube and carry another one in the boot to check the oil level
no damage to motor tho and fished it out using a magnet without having to do any work except drop the sump.
now ill run a cut down dipstick to stop oil leaks out the dipstick tube and carry another one in the boot to check the oil level
#32
_gtrtorana_
Posted 22 August 2007 - 07:36 AM
I am currently building a red six with a blue crank. I have heard if this issue before and have bent the dipstick in a way that it doesn't hit the crank or baffles in High Energy sump. I will be in trouble if dip stick is placed in the wrong way though.
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