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Dent Repair without Bog!??

Started by UCANG , Jan 29 2006 11:25 PM

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39 replies to this topic

#26 _slr6000_

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 10:08 PM

I tried using a shrinking disk on a door and it worked well it would shrink the high spots down, but i would get i high spot appear somewhere else. I got sick of chasing high spots and looked for another door. As for using bog i think if you want super straight panels you have to use it.
I will do any repairs as needed and then bog the whole panel then block it back until its dead straight.
Another thing to look at if you want to get straight panels is paintless dent removal

paintless dent removal ,

I have had a go at this and it works very well. Once I’ve got a panel back to bare metal and can see all the imperfections ill spray a light coat of dark acrylic over the areas that need attention that way i can get a reflection off the light. Great for getting out dents behind intrusion bars and hard to get places.

But if you’re worried about using bog i would recommend watching American hotrod and those sorts of shows to see how much bog actually goes in to those cars it’s an eye opener :blink:

Edited by slr6000, 09 June 2009 - 10:12 PM.

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#27 _beergut_

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 11:51 PM

interesting
does it work?
or should i get the hair dryer out?
seems like the same idea

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#28 lcgtr1970

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 12:11 PM

as others have said, these days bog isnt that bad, as long as its been applied correctly to a well prepped surface you wont notice and it will last forever. just get in there and have a crack, by doing it yourself you'll feel heaps better.

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#29 _gtr161s_

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 12:15 PM

Its pretty difficult to avoid using niki, you can lead wipe BUT this can only be done on a panel that doesnt change shape when heated ie corners, panel like doors, quarters etc will distort creating bigger problems.

The primers of today are effectively like spray putty but they have there limitations to thickness.

The problem with bogs is the person applying it.

1) I will always sandblast a welded area then apply the niki after cleaning down...this way you have an excellent surface.
2) A spotless bare metal clean keyed surface is the will not give any problems for niki down the track.
3) The smallest traces of rust (brown colour any where) will attract moisture under the niki resulting in the surface breaking up later
4) Biggest fear on file finishing is how far have you gone to achieve that perfect finish....what thickness of metal is actually left?

These are my tips and have always worked for me

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#30 _Lxrana_

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 06:54 PM

lots of people on here have done their own panel work with pretty good results, take heath for example, or Matt (MRLXSS) taught themselves pretty much and tackled their cars head on.

not all of them are doh for show type of people, they actually give it a whirl and try and do things themselves, so instead of putting them down because you havent succeeded when you tried or were simply not willing to try, how bout a bit of encouragment?

I agree. I painted my very first car at 16. It was a Lj 2 door full bare metal respray in my parents drive way and it come up great. I got offers to become an apprentice panel beater cause of it, which I knocked back. If you never try and you let other people do all the work on your car like some do, you'll never learn anything. :tease:

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#31 _Lxrana_

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 06:54 PM

lots of people on here have done their own panel work with pretty good results, take heath for example, or Matt (MRLXSS) taught themselves pretty much and tackled their cars head on.

not all of them are doh for show type of people, they actually give it a whirl and try and do things themselves, so instead of putting them down because you havent succeeded when you tried or were simply not willing to try, how bout a bit of encouragment?

I agree. I painted my very first car at 16. It was a Lj 2 door full bare metal respray in my parents drive way and it came up great. I got offers to become an apprentice panel beater cause of it, which I knocked back. If you never try and you let other people do all the work on your car like some do, you'll never learn anything. :tease:

Edited by Lxrana, 14 June 2009 - 06:55 PM.

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#32 _doogs_

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Posted 15 June 2009 - 09:17 PM

I agree with Lxrana and orangeLJ.

Whilst I respect those who do quality file finish jobs, bog is not completely the enemy.
When used corectly I don't have a problem with bog.

There is a lot to be said for doing it yourself. Not only do you learn a huge amount and get personal satisfaction,
but you can save a bit of money too.

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#33 UCANG

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Name:Ang
Location:Adelaide, South Australia
Car:UC Hatch, UC Sedan, VL Turbo, ForFour Brabus, 2010 Fatboy
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Posted 23 June 2009 - 11:54 PM

Wow, old thread came back to life..... This thread was posted in 2006, gathering some information... Sadly that car was in a very bad crash.. Been covered alot of times..

However, it's good to read again on what people have recommended here, and my new project will benifit from these tips..

In answer to your statement, Pete: The car I was restoring turned out like this; Bonnet folded in half and sticking up, the front of the car with the front guards in the air and pointing to the left, and most probably stripped after sitting at a wreckers for years, and now turned into a cube, recycled and is now in the form of West End Draught beer cans, where males and females alike are enjoying right now... hehehe

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#34 _Machine_

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 10:38 PM

Great thread;
I have decided to panel and paint my LJ.
It is bare mteal and all rust cut out and plated with flutes welded in (admittedly i never did the welding as i suck at it, but i did cut it out and fab replacement sills ect from a donor).

I have posted a thread about "metal bog' not the correct term but it is a metal filler that they say is too rough to paint over but needs a thin coat of putty. can you guys chesk th post out and comment, cos I have no idea about it.

Agree with the posts bog is aok when applied properly in a thin layer well preeped.
Cheers, M.

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#35 _gmlj6_

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 11:04 PM

im a panel beater and i can tell u filler is a great thing. when used properly it should only measure about 1 mm. if u hate bog on panels then shouldnt u hate primer and hi fil also.

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#36 UCANG

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Name:Ang
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Car:UC Hatch, UC Sedan, VL Turbo, ForFour Brabus, 2010 Fatboy
Joined: 28-January 06

Posted 29 June 2009 - 02:48 PM

Checkmate!!

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#37 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 13 December 2009 - 01:44 PM

I have a shrinking disc.....

I think it's a sign of getting old. I seem to have a shrinking disc as well!!!! It's either shrinking, or the awning over the toolbox is growing, not sure which.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 13 December 2009 - 01:47 PM.

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#38 _rallystripes_

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Posted 13 December 2009 - 02:25 PM

With the rust repairs i used to cut out the rust carefully,make my section,then weld in place using the oxy,acetylene with the filler rod.This takes patience and plenty of practice.
I remember using this method on an EH 1/4 panel and once the section was welded in and panel beated smooth,this weld is far more durible than a mig weld anyday imo,i file finished the whole area.

All that was left to fill was the odd feather that was left from oxy welding.Other than that it looked perfect.

At this time i was a Panel beater by trade and had a love of file finishing and welding with an oxy.

Imo,these results are very,very hard to achieve by the home handyman but with a lot of practice and patience and an eye for detail,it can be done.

I recently file finished an entire Mustang,fastback.It was a nightmare sometimes reaching into the 1/4 panel with the dolly and using the slapper on the body making sure you dont miss hit,otherwise you may create another dent.

Its actually not that hard to do but if you dont have the eye for it,you will struggle.

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#39 _rallystripes_

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Posted 13 December 2009 - 02:31 PM

I tried using a shrinking disk on a door and it worked well it would shrink the high spots down, but i would get i high spot appear somewhere else. I got sick of chasing high spots and looked for another door. As for using bog i think if you want super straight panels you have to use it.
I will do any repairs as needed and then bog the whole panel then block it back until its dead straight.
Another thing to look at if you want to get straight panels is paintless dent removal

paintless dent removal ,

I have had a go at this and it works very well. Once I�ve got a panel back to bare metal and can see all the imperfections ill spray a light coat of dark acrylic over the areas that need attention that way i can get a reflection off the light. Great for getting out dents behind intrusion bars and hard to get places.

But if you�re worried about using bog i would recommend watching American hotrod and those sorts of shows to see how much bog actually goes in to those cars it�s an eye opener

When i was an apprentice we had a Trans Am in the shop and the boss told me that Americans love to use bog.That was in 1989.
Everytime i see these shows it reminds me of what my boss used to tell me.lol
Ive seen them bog doors and quarters end to end.No wonder they turn cars around so quick.Wonder what those cars would look like in 10yrs time?

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#40 _yldlj_

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Posted 13 December 2009 - 05:40 PM

i don't know what peoples problem is with bog.a light skim of bog will get your panel straighter than ever if you know how to block it out straight. if you only have small dents it's easier to slap up and metal finish them. everyone is talking about heat shrinking on here, heat shrinking should only be used when the metal is stretched and there is no way that the metal should be stretching with small dents maybe with large ones that arent pulled out correctly. IMO i would be metal filling the whole panel then put on a full light skim of filler from edge to edge.as of high spots the metal file should get them out the metal is much thicker older cars you can file toranas for hours without damage.