G'day Pat
Some brands of Clear have Darkeners added to increase the perception of depth and enhance gloss, That could possibly be what your paint salesman is referring to or it could be if your colour coats aren't nice and flat and any peel/imperfections are going to be visible under the clear. I'm not familiar with the term "shadowing" but that's my guess/20c.
I've used a 50/50 clear/colour mix in the past and also had great results particularly with REDs, I do like to finish with straight clears over rubbed down solid colours when doing an Acrylic job. I really like 50/50 solid colour/Clear mix with 2K final coats, in my opinion it does add to the depth & gloss.
As always every painter (qualified or amatuer) has their own personal preference on how to go about a job, I think at the end of the day if it looks good and lasts then there's no right or wrong way!!....to an extent, i still wouldnt put 2K clear over Acrylic base!
putting clear over solid acrylic colours
Started by
_gtr161s_
, Sep 21 2007 12:58 PM
44 replies to this topic
#27
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 31 October 2007 - 05:06 AM
Informative as ever. I am going to try straight clear on the race wreck and see how I go. I think shadowing he was just referring to differences in depth due to uneven application of the clear coat. Well that's the way I perceived it.
#28
MRLXSS
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Posted 31 October 2007 - 08:58 AM
Whats the recommendation for spraying clear over an Acrylic Metallic/pearl finish? Do people sand back between colour and clear? I never have, as i am afraid that i will wreck the look of the pearl. Or do people lay down a couple of coats of clear, then rub back, then lay another few coats of clear?
Cheers
Cheers
#29
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 31 October 2007 - 09:15 AM
I haven't attempted metallics or pearls yet. You'll need Pete to answer that, but I'd hazard a guess at option two, although the first alternative may cut through the flake and give them sharper definition.
I don't like metallic after my first Torry because no matter what, you can't match the pattern, and after a few years you get panels that all look slightly different from a distance.
If it were me, I'd grab a spare panel and have a play and see what worked best for me.
I don't like metallic after my first Torry because no matter what, you can't match the pattern, and after a few years you get panels that all look slightly different from a distance.
If it were me, I'd grab a spare panel and have a play and see what worked best for me.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 31 October 2007 - 09:19 AM.
#30
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Posted 31 October 2007 - 09:35 AM
For Pearls/Metallics you shouldn't sand the basecoat before clear, all it needs is going over with a Tack Cloth to pickup any overspray, if you sand it you will see sanding scratches which arent a good look.
I like to have all the panels lined up on the car to spray metallics/pearls so you can get an even coverage and have the metallic set-up correctly. You can tell when a car is painted with the panels all seperated as there is sometimes difference in the way the metallics sit. Pearls are a lot easier to paint due to their shape and you can sometimes get away with painting a car seperately.
I like to have all the panels lined up on the car to spray metallics/pearls so you can get an even coverage and have the metallic set-up correctly. You can tell when a car is painted with the panels all seperated as there is sometimes difference in the way the metallics sit. Pearls are a lot easier to paint due to their shape and you can sometimes get away with painting a car seperately.
#31
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 31 October 2007 - 09:40 AM
Can I borrow your brain on the weekends Pete?
#32
ToRunYa
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Posted 31 October 2007 - 12:05 PM
ive always left a bit of colour in the gun when adding clears, but i thought i was slack and couldnt be shagged cleaning the gun and that eventually the clears will clean it for me.
...had a decient theory and didnt know it!
...had a decient theory and didnt know it!
#33
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Posted 31 October 2007 - 12:58 PM
Thanks for that pete! What is a Tack Cloth? Is that just a special name for something? or is it something i should get next time i paint my car!
#34
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 31 October 2007 - 01:26 PM
^ in short expensive. You can buy em at your Automotive Paint Shop. Think they are just a sticky rag that picks up all the fine dust particles. Will buy one one day.
#35
TerrA LX
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Posted 31 October 2007 - 01:41 PM
^^ yeah, it is like a chux cloth for cars.
#36
_Pete_
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Posted 31 October 2007 - 02:21 PM
Can I borrow your brain on the weekends Pete?
If you ask my Mrs she would say I don't have any to lend out!!!
Tack Cloths are pretty cheap, you usually by them in a box or 5 or something and are only a couple of bucks at the most. They are just another step that can help improve the overall result of your hard work.
If anyone has trouble getting them I can buy them through work here and put them in the post etc. Same goes for a lot of trade materials if you can't find them.
#37
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 31 October 2007 - 02:24 PM
^ don't worry, it's just a wife thing.
#38
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Posted 31 October 2007 - 03:35 PM
I might take you up on that offer pete if i cant find them cheap at my paint shop!Tack Cloths are pretty cheap, you usually by them in a box or 5 or something and are only a couple of bucks at the most. They are just another step that can help improve the overall result of your hard work.
If anyone has trouble getting them I can buy them through work here and put them in the post etc. Same goes for a lot of trade materials if you can't find them.
Cheers
#39
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 31 October 2007 - 03:38 PM
I'll have to have another look next time I'm in there. Maybe it was a case of it wasn't affordable along with the other items in my arms at the time.
#40
Peter UC
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Posted 01 November 2007 - 08:25 AM
Milsome (spelling?) has them. There on Burwood highway just past Maccas in Ferntree Gully
Peter
Peter
#41
_gtr161s_
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Posted 07 November 2007 - 04:27 PM
Ive started cutting back the acrylic paint job today with 1500 wet.
What ive found is that its taking for ever to cut back the small amount of orange peel. Im using it wet with a small amount of detergent. After a couple of hours rubbing i'm making a different but not as much as expected, if anything in certain light it starting to look shinier !
My question is - would it make any difference to go down to 1200 or even 1000?, keeping in mind that i will be covering with several coats of acrylic clear.
cheers, Kev
What ive found is that its taking for ever to cut back the small amount of orange peel. Im using it wet with a small amount of detergent. After a couple of hours rubbing i'm making a different but not as much as expected, if anything in certain light it starting to look shinier !
My question is - would it make any difference to go down to 1200 or even 1000?, keeping in mind that i will be covering with several coats of acrylic clear.
cheers, Kev
#42
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Posted 07 November 2007 - 08:32 PM
If your confident you've got enough colour on there then it wouldnt hurt to drop back to 1200 to help flatten it out some more. I would just steer well clear of your edges and body lines. I would also dry the surface regularly and have good light available so you can make sure your not making it see through.
Are you using a "Soft Block", If not I think you will find it easier than if your using a standard hard rubbing block.
I would still finish off with a light going over with 1500 before you put on more clear.
You've come so far now, patience in this stage will help deliver the results your after!!! Keep at it!!!
Are you using a "Soft Block", If not I think you will find it easier than if your using a standard hard rubbing block.
I would still finish off with a light going over with 1500 before you put on more clear.
You've come so far now, patience in this stage will help deliver the results your after!!! Keep at it!!!
#43
_gtr161s_
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Posted 07 November 2007 - 09:01 PM
thanks pete, thats what i was thinking but needed to here from someone with experience.
I ditched the hard block after a few minutes and went with the soft block which works fine.
I laid on atleast min 7 coats so im confident that there's enough there not to go thru/.
Thanks for your advice
Kev
I ditched the hard block after a few minutes and went with the soft block which works fine.
I laid on atleast min 7 coats so im confident that there's enough there not to go thru/.
Thanks for your advice
Kev
#44
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Posted 07 November 2007 - 10:39 PM
G'day Kev,
If there is anything to come out of it you will have a nice shiny GTR and really muscle packed arms that the Mrs will appreciate!!!
How's the fingertips? Bleeding yet?
Good luck with it!!
If there is anything to come out of it you will have a nice shiny GTR and really muscle packed arms that the Mrs will appreciate!!!
How's the fingertips? Bleeding yet?
Good luck with it!!
#45
_gtr161s_
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Posted 08 November 2007 - 09:59 AM
Pete
no bleeding fingers yet, probably hardened up from years of being a fitter machinist.
Last time time i had fingers that bleed was when i helped the brickies build my house....ouch
Will give the paper a go today
Thanks mate
no bleeding fingers yet, probably hardened up from years of being a fitter machinist.
Last time time i had fingers that bleed was when i helped the brickies build my house....ouch
Will give the paper a go today
Thanks mate
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