Okay guys. I have a red 202 with a ww stromberg, extractors, 2 1/4" exhaust, worked head (not huge ports but post removed big valves big springs etc), electronic ignition running through an aussie 4 speed and 3.08 diff.
now I've discussed this with a few 'experts' by this i mean mechanics and speed shop guys and they reckon something with a 214-224 lift at .50" DUR. this converts to what's know as a 30/70 cam or a XU-1 street cam. It is the crow grind no. 35665 can be seen here, this cam works from 2200 through to 5200. I'm thinking this pretty good as mine revvs to 5500 then harmonics so the cam runs out just before the end of my car's limits.
but then again a slightly more mild cam would be better the crow grind no. 35603 which has 214 lift at .50" DUR. which is a 32/68 cam which is claimed to give"Maximum performance and driveability in street modified engines." it revvs from 2000 to 5000 which i think might be safer and put less stress on the engine and be easier to use 'round town.
NOW, opinions?
suitable cam for mild 202.
Started by
_tyre fryer_
, Oct 16 2007 05:54 PM
26 replies to this topic
#3
red6
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Posted 16 October 2007 - 09:02 PM
if you ring crow they will reccomend a 35603 for that combo as i asked them when i was building mine.
dynotec stage 2 is a similar grind if you are cheaper
dynotec stage 2 is a similar grind if you are cheaper
#4
_tyre fryer_
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 16 October 2007 - 09:28 PM
well, red6 that's the second one i suggested.
#5
_Sammy_
_Sammy_
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Posted 17 October 2007 - 02:14 PM
if you go for a crow i'd recommend the 35603 ... i did the same thing for my mate and he went for the 35665 ( he had to go one better than what everyone recommended to him 
)
i looked at these and ended up going for a camtech 517 ... my dyno program on the pc showed it to be more torquey with similar HP figures ... and from having it in the car for a few yrs i was very happy with it ...
camtech listing here - http://www.camtechca...cat/holden.html
) i looked at these and ended up going for a camtech 517 ... my dyno program on the pc showed it to be more torquey with similar HP figures ... and from having it in the car for a few yrs i was very happy with it ...
camtech listing here - http://www.camtechca...cat/holden.html
#6
_tyre fryer_
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 17 October 2007 - 04:02 PM
thanks sammy.
what specs are you running?
what specs are you running?
#7
_Sammy_
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Posted 18 October 2007 - 03:05 PM
this is what i had when i was using the engine with that cam in it ...
Engine Specifications
Type: Holden 6 Cylinder Red Motor.
Capacity: 3.37 Litres (202 + 40 thou).
Induction: VK Commodore EFI port matched with standard computer.
Cam: Camtech 26/68 Intake (274 Degrees Duration), 65/29 Exhaust (274 Degrees Duration) and .442" Lift.
Lifters: Hydraulic.
Head: Blue Motor Ex Speedway 12 Port - Mildly worked with stock valves, uprated springs, adjustable rockers and steel guide plates with brass retainers.
Block: Red Motor Block (202 + 40 thou), race balanced crank, race balanced HQ racing pistons (ACL - Perkins Kit - 202 + 40 thou) on 202 blue race balanced rods, JP Performance straight cut timing gear set, Powerbond harmonic balancer (6500rpm limit).
Ignition: Blue Motor electronic distributor with bosch high energy coil and Eagle topgun 9mm leads.
Exhaust: Genie 3-2-1 2.5" port matched extractors, 2.5" high flow muffler (dumps down to road on 45% angle out of muffler just before diff).
Clutch: Holden Commodore Starfire race balanced flywheel, Holden red 6 cylinder preasure plate - 1 tonne diaphram, Holden - Celica clutch plate.
Transmission: Celica 5 Speed - steel case (TA22) - heavy duty bearings and seals.
Dyno Figures: 132hp @ 4500rpm, 349Nm @ 3500rpm (in standard everyday tune - running BP Ultimate)
Engine Specifications
Type: Holden 6 Cylinder Red Motor.
Capacity: 3.37 Litres (202 + 40 thou).
Induction: VK Commodore EFI port matched with standard computer.
Cam: Camtech 26/68 Intake (274 Degrees Duration), 65/29 Exhaust (274 Degrees Duration) and .442" Lift.
Lifters: Hydraulic.
Head: Blue Motor Ex Speedway 12 Port - Mildly worked with stock valves, uprated springs, adjustable rockers and steel guide plates with brass retainers.
Block: Red Motor Block (202 + 40 thou), race balanced crank, race balanced HQ racing pistons (ACL - Perkins Kit - 202 + 40 thou) on 202 blue race balanced rods, JP Performance straight cut timing gear set, Powerbond harmonic balancer (6500rpm limit).
Ignition: Blue Motor electronic distributor with bosch high energy coil and Eagle topgun 9mm leads.
Exhaust: Genie 3-2-1 2.5" port matched extractors, 2.5" high flow muffler (dumps down to road on 45% angle out of muffler just before diff).
Clutch: Holden Commodore Starfire race balanced flywheel, Holden red 6 cylinder preasure plate - 1 tonne diaphram, Holden - Celica clutch plate.
Transmission: Celica 5 Speed - steel case (TA22) - heavy duty bearings and seals.
Dyno Figures: 132hp @ 4500rpm, 349Nm @ 3500rpm (in standard everyday tune - running BP Ultimate)
#8
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 18 October 2007 - 07:07 PM
sounds like a really nice engine.
mines got the same specs but is like a backyard version lol. how much money have you put into that? I'm going with the cam you recommended is it very lumpy at idle?
mines got the same specs but is like a backyard version lol. how much money have you put into that? I'm going with the cam you recommended is it very lumpy at idle?
#9
_boynuz_
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Posted 19 October 2007 - 04:10 AM
A mate of mine had a crow 35666 cam with a lot of head work and tripple su's running high 14's quarter in a LJ.
I remeber at the start he had a bigger cam sounded realy lumpy but didn't go as good.
I remeber at the start he had a bigger cam sounded realy lumpy but didn't go as good.
#10
_tyre fryer_
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 19 October 2007 - 10:37 AM
the crow 666 grind is meant to be the same as a HQ racing cam. I think it would be a good street use cam, but the camtech cam i have found works through a lot broader range (1800-5800) but that's when i actually have some money. lol.
anybody else use a excellent cam?
anybody else use a excellent cam?
#11
_boynuz_
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Posted 20 October 2007 - 12:56 AM
On the crow cam site it says the crow35666 is standard idle but mates had
a slight lumpy note which sounded good.
I think smaller cam and more head work is better but i'm no expert just from what i have seen..
His use to rev 7000rpm no problem with that cam and was all pull.
Anyone else had good results with smaller cams.
a slight lumpy note which sounded good.
I think smaller cam and more head work is better but i'm no expert just from what i have seen..
His use to rev 7000rpm no problem with that cam and was all pull.
Anyone else had good results with smaller cams.
#12
_Sammy_
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Posted 24 October 2007 - 02:44 PM
yeah it is a nice engine, has a good note all round nice lumpy idle and is great to drive on the streets .... i think the EFI helps it along toosounds like a really nice engine.
mines got the same specs but is like a backyard version lol. how much money have you put into that? I'm going with the cam you recommended is it very lumpy at idle?
well i've been through a few versions of this motor now and well over 300,000kms with them ... i have lost count of what its cost but as i've gone along i've gained more power mainly with going smaller in the cams ....
i built an engine as close as i could get to mine for a mate and all said and done was about $3500 ....
#13
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 24 October 2007 - 04:08 PM
ok cool. I thought stock efi might hold it back a bit though.
i enquired about this cam and it was $230.
alot more than a dynotech one. and even more expensive than crow.
i enquired about this cam and it was $230.
alot more than a dynotech one. and even more expensive than crow.
#14
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 24 October 2007 - 06:14 PM
I payed $350 for my holden six cam...Then had to buy lifters....
Dont complain to much lol.
Dont complain to much lol.
#15
FastEHHolden
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#16
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 24 October 2007 - 09:08 PM
Bah there hydraulic 
And there out of a motor...Wonder if old mate selling them realizes that you need the cam they came off otherwise stuff will start chewing itself out...
And there out of a motor...Wonder if old mate selling them realizes that you need the cam they came off otherwise stuff will start chewing itself out...
Edited by Bomber Watson, 24 October 2007 - 09:10 PM.
#17
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 24 October 2007 - 09:12 PM
yeah. i thought the same thing lol.
lifters are pretty cheap, well i have other finances to worry about before i make my final decision. so if cash is good the camtech it is...
lifters are pretty cheap, well i have other finances to worry about before i make my final decision. so if cash is good the camtech it is...
#18
_Sammy_
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Posted 25 October 2007 - 03:09 PM
thats a good price for a good cam i reckon
as for the efi, i got a gain from it when going from 350 holley to the EFI so i wouldn't say its a restriction .... 140hp at the wheels i've made and thats with completely stock efi other than the air filter and inlet pipe.
as for the efi, i got a gain from it when going from 350 holley to the EFI so i wouldn't say its a restriction .... 140hp at the wheels i've made and thats with completely stock efi other than the air filter and inlet pipe.
#19
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 25 October 2007 - 04:49 PM
140hp?
i thought you said 140 at the rears is some good fun. A dynotch cam new is $130, but you know what's a $100?
i thought you said 140 at the rears is some good fun. A dynotch cam new is $130, but you know what's a $100?
#20
_Sammy_
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Posted 29 October 2007 - 02:48 PM
a dynotech cam is probably going to be fine anyways ... the only reason i went with the camtech is because out of all the ones i punched into a dyno program it gave me the best results .... the dynotech i didn't even look into its specs ....
140hp at the rears is pretty good fun for a daily driver!
140hp at the rears is pretty good fun for a daily driver!
#21
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 29 October 2007 - 03:49 PM
well in an 1100Kg car it's gotta be....
#22
MustardGTR
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Posted 29 October 2007 - 10:15 PM
I also have a 202 with similar specs to that of SAMMY, including VK efi. The hydraulic cam is a C.O.M.E CSBH 450 and is relatively small and recommended as a daily driver. (rev range 1500-5000rpm).
Cam specifications as follows:
Duration at 0.050" Inlet 208deg. Exhaust 215deg.
Cam lobe lift Inlet .287" Exhaust .300"
Lobe Centre Separation 112deg.
The 202 with this cam made 142RWHP @ 4500 rpm. (will post the dyno print out once I master photobucket!)
As impressive (and drivable) as this set-up is, I just bought triple 42DCOE webers and a CROW 36667 cam which will go in shortly, with an aim of about ~170 RWHP. Again the CROW 36667 is not over the top (dur.@ .050" 224deg, lobe ctrs 111deg), but with well matched head, flow and compression etc. is capable of making good horsepower. Should be fun!
Cam specifications as follows:
Duration at 0.050" Inlet 208deg. Exhaust 215deg.
Cam lobe lift Inlet .287" Exhaust .300"
Lobe Centre Separation 112deg.
The 202 with this cam made 142RWHP @ 4500 rpm. (will post the dyno print out once I master photobucket!)
As impressive (and drivable) as this set-up is, I just bought triple 42DCOE webers and a CROW 36667 cam which will go in shortly, with an aim of about ~170 RWHP. Again the CROW 36667 is not over the top (dur.@ .050" 224deg, lobe ctrs 111deg), but with well matched head, flow and compression etc. is capable of making good horsepower. Should be fun!
#23
_tyre fryer_
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 30 October 2007 - 01:25 PM
sounds like alota fun for a daily!!
twoextra question;
1.where are you?
2. want to sell your old cam?
twoextra question;
1.where are you?
2. want to sell your old cam?
#24
_Sammy_
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Posted 30 October 2007 - 01:53 PM
its funny you should mention that ... i recently got some things engineered on the car and i got a weighbridge ticket for it, as is when i drive it with 20ltrs of fuel in it 1240kg so its put on a bit of weight since newwell in an 1100Kg car it's gotta be....
mustardgtr: i'll be interested to hear the results of your cam and weber upgrade because if thats all your changing i doubt you'll get 170 from it ... not trying to knock what your doing i just don't think those components will increase it that much ... but if they do i will stand corrected!!
#25
_tyre fryer_
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 30 October 2007 - 05:47 PM
haha. must be something a little extra added to the car. ohwell. that's equivelant to a big 'friend. still like 600 odd kilos less than an ss VE.
anyway, mustardGTR let me know, sounds like a good little street cam.
anyway, mustardGTR let me know, sounds like a good little street cam.
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