hi guys, just sat my car out the front today and noticed there is alot of negative camber on the front wheels, i only have 1 shim on each side in the rear hole, i dont think removing this shim is going to make much difference, is it possible that the upper control arms are different side to side and that i may have them mixed up?????/ any ideas
lx front suspension excess camber
Started by
_2wild4u_
, Feb 03 2006 09:53 PM
4 replies to this topic
#1 _2wild4u_
Posted 03 February 2006 - 09:53 PM
#2 _CHOPPER_
Posted 03 February 2006 - 10:09 PM
Swapping the top arms left to right might alter the castor a bit, but not the camber. I assume you have lowered front springs?
#3 _2wild4u_
Posted 03 February 2006 - 10:50 PM
yes, lowered springs and they a pretty darn low
#4 _Jewboy_
Posted 03 February 2006 - 11:11 PM
Did you do a HQ swap? we had major camber after mine was done. Took it for a wheel alignment and he guy said to remove some 1/2" spacer tubes off the arms. Now its heaps better but still leans a little.
#5 _CHOPPER_
Posted 04 February 2006 - 12:10 PM
Installing HQ stubs onto Toranas gives you an instant 2 degree camber change in the negative direction. Lowered springs also do this, the lower the springs, the lower the camber. On RTS Toranas, there are ( usually ) spacers on the bolts that hold the shims in place. Removing these ( if installed ) will give you more positive camber. However, it's not a straight forward task to remove these. The following is the basic procedure:
#1 Lift front of vehicle and support on stands.
#2 Remove front wheels.
#3 Remove front shockers.
#4 Remove the nut holding the top ball joint.
#5 Belt the shit out of the top of the stub axle until it seperates from the ball joint.
#6 Loosen ( not remove ) the nuts at either end of the top control arm bushes.
#7 Remove the nuts that hold the alignment shims in place. ( too bad if you have a V8 and extractors )
#8 Remove the alignment shims and carefully keep them in order.
#9 Tap the bolts that hold the alignment shims and they should push through. The spacers can now be removed.
NOW FOR THE FUN PART!!
#10 Measure the total thickness of shims and spacers at each corner. You need to remove equal amounts from each corner to increase camber equally and not alter castor.
FOR EACH 1/4" OF SHIMS REMOVED FROM EACH CORNER, CAMBER IS INCREASED BY 1 DEGREE.
# 11 Re-assemble in reverse order and torque all bolts to spec with vehicle at kerb height.
Should only take you 2 - 3 hours. An alignment is then required IMMEDIATELY. So I suggest you do this on the aligners property and start at around 6 AM on a Saturday morning. I would also suggest to tell the dude what you are going to do.
#1 Lift front of vehicle and support on stands.
#2 Remove front wheels.
#3 Remove front shockers.
#4 Remove the nut holding the top ball joint.
#5 Belt the shit out of the top of the stub axle until it seperates from the ball joint.
#6 Loosen ( not remove ) the nuts at either end of the top control arm bushes.
#7 Remove the nuts that hold the alignment shims in place. ( too bad if you have a V8 and extractors )
#8 Remove the alignment shims and carefully keep them in order.
#9 Tap the bolts that hold the alignment shims and they should push through. The spacers can now be removed.
NOW FOR THE FUN PART!!
#10 Measure the total thickness of shims and spacers at each corner. You need to remove equal amounts from each corner to increase camber equally and not alter castor.
FOR EACH 1/4" OF SHIMS REMOVED FROM EACH CORNER, CAMBER IS INCREASED BY 1 DEGREE.
# 11 Re-assemble in reverse order and torque all bolts to spec with vehicle at kerb height.
Should only take you 2 - 3 hours. An alignment is then required IMMEDIATELY. So I suggest you do this on the aligners property and start at around 6 AM on a Saturday morning. I would also suggest to tell the dude what you are going to do.
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